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Old 10-18-13, 07:27 PM   #1
pinballlooking
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Default Mini Split install

List of tools I bought for the install and review of the two systems are here.
http://ecorenovator.org/forum/geothe...nstall-12.html



Mini Split install (this is my first mini split install)
I made some progress.

Bracket installed.
I measured a few times and made sure it mounted on two 2x4's. Then I made sure the 3” hole was free from everything but drywall.





Inside unit installed.
It did this by myself and it is fun getting it through the hole with 2 ft copper pipe sticking out.
I stood on my night stand and almost fell off when putting it on the wall.





Line set cover installed.
I put silver line set tape on the screws just to keep sharp edges away from the line set.






Inside unit wired.


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Last edited by pinballlooking; 04-26-15 at 01:38 AM..
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Old 10-18-13, 07:32 PM   #2
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Now I have an issue the cap that is on the large line set is on very very tight. I am afraid I am going to break the line getting it off. Any suggestions?
I thought about applying some heat from a propane torch. But I am up for suggestions.

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Last edited by Daox; 10-21-13 at 11:16 AM..
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Old 10-18-13, 09:06 PM   #3
NiHaoMike
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Use two adjustable wrenches, hold both in one hand, and squeeze.
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Old 10-18-13, 10:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiHaoMike View Post
Use two adjustable wrenches, hold both in one hand, and squeeze.
Are these left handed threads?
The top one is fixed and the bottom one should come off.
(I see these are not left handed)

Last edited by pinballlooking; 10-19-13 at 08:24 AM..
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Old 10-18-13, 10:59 PM   #5
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That looks like regular right hand threads from here - just a tiny bit a of a thread visible but it appears to be going the right direction.

Put a wrench on the fitting and another on the cap. Lefty-loosey. That way you aren't putting any tension on the line at all. It won't turn the fitting on the line because you're resisting the torque going from the cap into the fitting with the other wrench that is on the fitting. The line just hangs while you're doing this, you're not putting any pressure on it at all.
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Old 10-18-13, 11:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elhigh View Post
That looks like regular right hand threads from here - just a tiny bit a of a thread visible but it appears to be going the right direction.

Put a wrench on the fitting and another on the cap. Lefty-loosey. That way you aren't putting any tension on the line at all. It won't turn the fitting on the line because you're resisting the torque going from the cap into the fitting with the other wrench that is on the fitting. The line just hangs while you're doing this, you're not putting any pressure on it at all.
Mine was not that tight , if I recall correctly . Pretty sure everything was right hand thread .

Nylog Blue is slick , you might put some on the threads ? Let set over nite ?

But may be too thick to penetrate ?

I bought a set of flare nut / tubing wrenches at harbor freight . I used the flare nut / tubing wrench on the small fitting ( that is brazed / silver soldered to the line and a box end metric on the big fitting ( flare nut ) . Less chance of slipping off & rounding the fittings .

I recommend this over two adjustable / crescent wrenches .

Looks like you have half the work finished . :-)

God bless
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Old 10-18-13, 11:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinballlooking View Post
Are these left handed threads?
The top one is fixed and the bottom one should come off. If I squeeze won't that turn the bottom one to the right?
Depends on how you position the wrenches , which direction it tries to turn the big / flare nit fitting .

When I put my lines together , for good , I smeared both sides of the flare ( on the copper tubing ) and the threads if the fitting with Nylog Blue .

I read about using a 37 degree flaring tool ? My old one was 45 degree . I obsessed about this for several days . Finally read that the copper is soft enough that the 45 degree flare will form to the fitting & flare nut , all by itself .

So , that is what I did . Seemed to work OK .

Looks like you are using a factory made line set ? So , the flares are probably pre-made at the factory ? If so , you do not have to mess with it . Unless you have to cut the copper ?

If you cut the copper , use a tubing cutter with a sharp / new wheel . And ream the end of the copper well before you flare it . I held the end of the copper tubing down so the shavings would fall out and not get & stay in the tubing . I did not want copper shavings to be circulating around inside the system . Also blew the tubing out with compressed air , before I hooked it up .

There probably is a plastic disk under the flare nut , to seal the tubing & keep dirt and moisture out . I would not remove this , until you are ready to hook-up the line set . Or , if you take it loose , put it back & snug tighten the flare nit to keep the line sealed .

God bless
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Old 10-18-13, 11:30 PM   #8
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Are you going to pour a concrete pad of buy a pre-made pad ?

God bless
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Old 10-18-13, 11:51 PM   #9
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The other one was right handed so I am sure this one is also. This one is just so tight. I will get out my flare nut wrench tomorrow. I used two wrenches and it would not budge. I used a socket and a wrench it would not move.
I think I will have to heat this one to get it off.
The small one came off with the normal amount of pressure.

I just got two oversized patio blocks. I was planning on drilling holed through it and bolting the unit to them.

Yes I am using a premade flare nut line set.

I put some PB Blaster on it and I will let it sit overnight. Maybe I will have better luck in the morning.

Last edited by pinballlooking; 10-20-13 at 07:27 PM..
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Old 10-19-13, 08:25 AM   #10
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PB Blaster did not help at all. Crows foot on a breaker bar no go. I tried my battery power impact driver no go. So I broke out the big guns my air impact driver 450 ft lbs torque.
It took it off like butter I am back in business it is off!

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