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Old 10-06-11, 11:46 AM   #1
Xringer
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Default #2 Sanyo 24KHS72 AC/HP Install Project (Oct 2011)

The goal of this project is to install the repaired Sanyo outdoor unit,
using a new indoor unit ($375.17 & arriving soon) in my (hard to heat) Den.

I'm not sure the money invested in this project won't be wasted,
since the POE lubricant and filter in the leaky outdoor unit may
have suffered too much damage/deterioration during the time
before the pinhole was repaired.

If things do go bad, and I do burn up the compressor, I will still have
almost a full set of spare parts for the existing system.

One idea I've been thinking about is to clean out the system using
an outboard drier-filter. Comments welcome.


One different aspect of this install, is the location of the indoor unit.
Instead of the recommend location near the ceiling, this one is going to be about 19" off the floor.
This location is due to lack of space above the windows and because this system
will be used for space heating 90% of the time.

This new system might not be used except during times when the
outdoor temperatures are consistently below 25F.
The duty cycle (off/on) should be low, since the unit is way over-sized for the room.
And, it will likely only be used during times when we are using the den,
for watching TV or entertaining & etc.


IMHO, the main reason that mini-splits are installed up high on the wall,
is because that's where the hot air is located during the summer.
That high location is optimal for cooling..

My goal is to heat up cold air, that accumulates down on the floor..

Stay tuned.. There's a chance, this might actually work!

Cheers,
Rich


Last edited by Xringer; 10-06-11 at 11:50 AM.. Reason: spell cek
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Old 10-06-11, 02:43 PM   #2
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Default

Woo, this'll be a fun one to watch. I'm glad to see you putting the 'bad' outdoor unit back to work!
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Old 10-06-11, 03:05 PM   #3
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Default Day 1

Well, I'm a little nervous-nelly on this one.. The UPS guy just dropped off a dirty box..



Despite the dents and crinkles, it looks okay inside. Well packaged.


There is a screw holding the mounting plate in place. Remove it for inspection (toss it later).


Wow, this was made in April 2011.. Not too old.. Maybe better firmware?


Got the spot picked out already..


I was not expecting this to arrive for weeks.. Boston Heating Supply Dot Com is very fast, or they have a warehouse next to the local UPS depot..

Dang, I hope that 120AC outlet isn't going to be right under where I want to drop the line-set etc!!

I'm thinking of a PVC pipe going down through the floor into the great outdoors.
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Old 10-07-11, 07:12 PM   #4
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Oh No!! Notice where the curtain is hanging??
I don't know why I failed to see that long curtain as a problem.
It would be hanging down on the air-input grill..
When it's unhooked, (to close it) it would hang even lower.. And cause blockage..
My wife is not liking my idea to chop 10" off the bottom of one curtain..
(I really don't think anyone would notice)..

So, now we are considering the area behind the guitar, just below that window frame.
That window has some ornamental glass swinging windows in it.
It's basically the hole that used to be the kitchen window-over-the-sink.

I kinda like the idea, since it is more out of the way there.
That's not a foot-traffic area.

~~
Went to Lowes and HD today. Got all the parts for the power supply and
the 1/2" water-tight conduit and parts needed to feed the 230vac and data line into the indoor unit.
I will be replacing a rusty old 230AC outlet on the back of the house with a standard, air conditioner disconnect box.
60 Amp 120/240-Volt 14,400-Watt Non-Fused Air Conditioning Disconnect-DPU222RP at The Home Depot
Looks like a pretty good one.(A bit larger than the other one).


Also picked up a Watts 1/4" flare nut, so I can install a drier-filter in my little test loop.
Before final install, I want to clean up any particles and acids that might be riding around in the R410A.
I'm hoping this will help avoid compressor wear, or explosion etc.

Since this is a low-fuss install, I don't plan on using a big cement slab like before.
This time, I'm going to hack a mount out of old 4x4s. I plan to make an
'H' frame (with two cross-bars) out of four old left-over deck timbers.
I picked up four of these things to tie them together.
4x4 Deck Post Tie-DPT7Z at The Home Depot


We cleaned a bunch of vegetation out of the new Sanyo location.
It's a good spot, a zero foot traffic area.

When the system is up and actually working for a few weeks,
I'll likely build another snow shed roof for this one..
Maybe make it extra tough, since roof snow and gutter ice could be dropping in..
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Old 10-08-11, 04:09 PM   #5
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Default Sanyo KHS2472 Base

Building the base. Added some steel carry bars.


Added some brown spray paint.


Alien taking a break on the Sanyo base.


New box in place..

This actually within 1 degree of being level.. It just looks 15 deg off..
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Old 10-09-11, 07:15 PM   #6
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Default IDU Details

IDU = InDoor Unit. ODU=OutDoor Unit.

Found a brass fitting at Lowes, to take care of the too short condensation line.
Also got 4 feet of plastic hose with 1/4" ID to drain the water out, under the den.



The fitting wouldn't screw in, until adding some Teflon tape.

The end of the (black) hose was narrow, so I cut 1/8" off with my pocket knife.


Had to cut out the bottom access hole with a small saw.
Since the lines are not going into a hole in the wall, but down the the wall (indoors).
I plan to cover them with some plastic gutter.



Sanyo does not provide a cable clamp with this IDU. You have to buy your own.
Don't put it in backwards, like I did this one..


The plate is removable with one screw. When you feed it the cable from the back,
get the enough wire out and tighten up the clamp and re-install the plate.
If you do as shown, the plastic safety cover won't close all the way..

~~~
I was worried about running into 2x4s in the floor when drilling the 3" hole.
So this morning, I made a 1/4" x 13" drill bit and made a test hole right next to the baseboard. No problems found.
It seems like there is about 12" of air space between the 1/2" plywood covering the top and bottom of the den floor.
There is the plywood floor (with pad & carpet covering it), the studs and then a plywood bottom cover.
(Which I covered in pink foam insulation a few years ago).

I'm not sure if the hole saw pocket is deep enough for that 4" foam..

On Monday, I want to drill the 3" floor hole and hang the IDU on the wall.
Maybe I'll drag the ODU out of the garage and try to lift in up on the stand.. (119 pounds)!
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Old 10-09-11, 08:01 PM   #7
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You might want to air seal those foam boards Xringer. Last winter I was working on a house that had the same kind of thing done to it with polyiso and it made a dramatic difference when we air sealed those boards.

Eagerly waiting to see how this project turns out!
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Old 10-09-11, 11:18 PM   #8
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Those are Tongue & Groove panels with glue/sealant on the plywood side and in the T&G.
They were just about a perfect fit. There aren't any real cracks or openings where I could inject sealant.
I can't figure out how I could get an 'air seal' without covering the whole bottom with plastic..

When I probed around between the floor and the sub-floor, I was amazed
how roomy it is down there. My guess is there is about 4" of R-11 with foil,
topped off with 8" of air space..

One idea that occurred to me was cutting a bunch of holes in the floor,
and filling up all that dead air space with blown in insulation..
Maybe when we replace the carpet.?. That's on the list..
It was laid in June 1989.. 22 years, 4 months ago, but still looks pretty good..
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Old 10-10-11, 07:25 AM   #9
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You could just tape the seams with Tyvek tape.
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Old 10-10-11, 10:31 AM   #10
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Xringer,

Great photos, however you might want to crop (and/or resize) your photos.

Very few of the photos have essential details that warrant large photos.

The page takes a long time to load...

-AC_Hacker

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