DIY battery electric push mower (cordless) - Page 3

Daox · 08-23-11, 10:43 PM

Thanks Doug, that is helpful.

I grabbed a picture of the mower tonight before I went in for the night. I'm not even sure what the specs on the mower are so I'll have to check that out and report back.

dh1 · 08-23-11, 10:51 PM

I know on some brands of rear bagger mowers you can get a shoot that goes in place of the bag and directs the clippings out the left side (opposite of a normal side discharge). I've seen 2 different sears models that had them.

Daox · 08-24-11, 11:32 PM

We'll see. The budget is tight enough on this project, I don't want to be buying parts if I don't have to. If worst came to worst and it doesn't work out with this mower I'm sure I can find another dead mower out there somewhere pretty easily.

Anyway, the motor arrived today. It is 4" long and 4" in diameter. The shaft is 3/8" in diameter with I'm guessing 3/8-16 thread on the end. It also does have a flat spot for a setscrew. I was hoping the shaft was a bit beefier, but I guess this'll have to do.

Daox · 08-25-11, 12:41 PM

I've really been trying to come up with a good coupling solution but am not getting any good ideas. You guys have any? Again I'm trying to keep this a real simple build that anyone can do. That means off the shelf parts and/or simple modifications to parts like hand drilling, maybe tapping, but no custom parts.

MetroMPG · 08-25-11, 02:41 PM

What was originally connected to that motor?

Chain sprocket? Hub or no hub? Maybe you could get one and adapt it to mount the blade (drill & bolts).

Daox · 08-25-11, 03:57 PM

There is a clutch mechanism on this mower. You can run the engine without engaging the blades. I honestly haven't looked to see if it can be adapted, but I'm guessing not since the engine shaft is way bigger than 3/8".

dh1 · 08-26-11, 08:21 PM

This is how the blade is mounted on a Yardworks cordless mower.

1> is the assembly
2> the motor shaft
3> all the parts,
Spacer>Blade with fan>Square plastic washer>Steel washer>Nut
4> the parts on the motor shaft, minus the blade, fan and plastic washer

The blade, fan, plastic and steel washer all lock together.
The steel washer locks on the motor shaft.

IMO if you can get some kind of a collar locked on the motor shaft in the right spot so it doesn't move, slid up and down, then a thick fender washer, then the blade, then another thick fender washer, and finally the nut it should work.
Whatever you do you want to make sure the blade is not going to come flying off.

dh1 · 08-26-11, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daox

We'll see. The budget is tight enough on this project, I don't want to be buying parts if I don't have to. If worst came to worst and it doesn't work out with this mower I'm sure I can find another dead mower out there somewhere pretty easily.

Anyway, the motor arrived today. It is 4" long and 4" in diameter. The shaft is 3/8" in diameter with I'm guessing 3/8-16 thread on the end. It also does have a flat spot for a setscrew. I was hoping the shaft was a bit beefier, but I guess this'll have to do.

That motor looks like a fair size and I see it has a threaded shaft on it.
I think it's going to work.

08-23-11, 10:43 PM	#21
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Thanks Doug, that is helpful. I grabbed a picture of the mower tonight before I went in for the night. I'm not even sure what the specs on the mower are so I'll have to check that out and report back. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

08-24-11, 11:32 PM	#23
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	We'll see. The budget is tight enough on this project, I don't want to be buying parts if I don't have to. If worst came to worst and it doesn't work out with this mower I'm sure I can find another dead mower out there somewhere pretty easily. Anyway, the motor arrived today. It is 4" long and 4" in diameter. The shaft is 3/8" in diameter with I'm guessing 3/8-16 thread on the end. It also does have a flat spot for a setscrew. I was hoping the shaft was a bit beefier, but I guess this'll have to do. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

08-25-11, 12:41 PM	#24
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	I've really been trying to come up with a good coupling solution but am not getting any good ideas. You guys have any? Again I'm trying to keep this a real simple build that anyone can do. That means off the shelf parts and/or simple modifications to parts like hand drilling, maybe tapping, but no custom parts. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

08-25-11, 02:41 PM	#25
MetroMPG Infrequent noob Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: 1000 Islands region, Ontario, Canada Posts: 402 Thanks: 37 Thanked 20 Times in 19 Posts	What was originally connected to that motor? Chain sprocket? Hub or no hub? Maybe you could get one and adapt it to mount the blade (drill & bolts). __________________ . To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

08-25-11, 03:57 PM	#26
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	There is a clutch mechanism on this mower. You can run the engine without engaging the blades. I honestly haven't looked to see if it can be adapted, but I'm guessing not since the engine shaft is way bigger than 3/8". __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

08-23-11, 10:51 PM	#22
dh1 Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ont. Canada Posts: 99 Thanks: 14 Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts	I know on some brands of rear bagger mowers you can get a shoot that goes in place of the bag and directs the clippings out the left side (opposite of a normal side discharge). I've seen 2 different sears models that had them.

08-26-11, 08:21 PM	#27
dh1 Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ont. Canada Posts: 99 Thanks: 14 Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts	This is how the blade is mounted on a Yardworks cordless mower. 1> is the assembly 2> the motor shaft 3> all the parts, Spacer>Blade with fan>Square plastic washer>Steel washer>Nut 4> the parts on the motor shaft, minus the blade, fan and plastic washer The blade, fan, plastic and steel washer all lock together. The steel washer locks on the motor shaft. IMO if you can get some kind of a collar locked on the motor shaft in the right spot so it doesn't move, slid up and down, then a thick fender washer, then the blade, then another thick fender washer, and finally the nut it should work. Whatever you do you want to make sure the blade is not going to come flying off. Attached Thumbnails