07-28-11, 10:07 AM | #51 |
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Yep, that is how it is currently done.
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07-28-11, 04:28 PM | #52 |
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Any suggestions on plugging up that PVC pipe?
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07-28-11, 05:40 PM | #53 |
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If it's just a glue on type cap, you can use PVC primer to soak it down some and then
add some of the thin version PVC glue. But, there can be no pressure inside (water leaking), when you do this. Thin PVC takes a bit longer to cure. If it's a threaded cap, you could try using Teflon tape.. |
07-28-11, 06:27 PM | #54 |
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Yeah, I suppose I should have mentioned that. Its a glue on cap. I've taken it out of the sump and its drying off.
Here are the pictures: Getting the barrel ready with all the fittings. Here is the leaky dry well. Here you can see what I'm doing with it. At the time of the picture the sump is drained, but the dry well will allow the pump to sit below the water level and keep the prime. However, the cap has a slight leak at the moment. Here is the Piwoslaw home made filter. There is a piece of PVC tubing inside the sock to keep it from collapsing around the tube's inlet. Here we have the pump that will sit inside the PVC drywell. Upstairs we have the radiator with the two tubes running to it. I'll be constructing some ducting, probably out of cardboard, to adapt a box fan to blow through it.
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08-01-11, 07:44 PM | #55 |
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Luv it.
Is the water source the same in the heating months? Where do you live? I have often thought if the outside temp was several degrees cooler than the gound water temp. that you could gain in ambient air temp differencial were you to circ the ground water into the cool space of the home, which we heat anyways. Lookng forward to comments. |
08-02-11, 01:05 AM | #56 |
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Haven't read all the posts and just joining now but I see some problems:
piping is small and will provoke a big pressure drop Piping is flexible and removing air out of your system will therefore be difficult. As long as there's air in the system, you will have no proper flow. Pump seems too small for 4.000 BTU The fan will bring in additional heat in the house. |
08-02-11, 08:29 AM | #57 |
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Thanks for the comments guys.
zzz9395, the water source is the same in the heating months. I'm not sure how you would use this though as the ground water is around 50F and using my gas forced air its simply reheating air that is already ~68F. I do not have a HRV in my house, so I can't use it for preheating outside air. daliti, that is what the hand calculations show. I'm sure real world will be different. To accurately measure BTU output I will be measuring the flow rate through the radiator. I will also measure the temperature drop across the radiator. With those two measurements I will have an accurate BTU output.
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08-02-11, 09:47 AM | #58 |
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I just started to follow your project. I have been thinking about doing something similar with my well water. I think I have read all the threads but I did not see anywhere why you chose not to just send the return into the sump pump discharge line. This would recuce the on time of the sump pump and you would always be getting a supply of 50F water to go to your radiator. You would also get rid of the 2-55 gal. drums in your basement.
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08-02-11, 10:09 AM | #59 |
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Welcome to the site.
The sump itself only holds about 20 gallons of water, and thats when its near full. Once the pump kicks in it probably gets rid of 2/3rds of that water. If there is no water, there is no source of cooling. I added the barrels to increase the amount of cool water. With only 20 gallons and a 20F temperature drop, the BTUs available for cooling is very small. If I had a constant flow of water to the sump and my sump pump ran really often, I'd definitely plumb the return to the drain instead of back to the sump. However, that is not the case for me.
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08-02-11, 11:10 AM | #60 |
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Thanks for the welcome.
I had the impression that you had an unlimited source of water and your sump pump was running quite often. The barrels do make sense now. How do you plan on filling the barrels initially? When the sump pump runs how long does it take for the hole to refill? If I remember correctly your circulating pump would be running at about 75 GPH. Maybe the sump would be able to supply this. just a thought. |
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a/c, air conditioner, diy, geothermal |
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