Gree "Crown" 18kBTU install - Page 9

Xringer · 09-21-16, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinballlooking

Can you tell how it is doing compared to the Sanyo heating or cooling?

"Sanyo used 0.4 KWh" That could add up to a good savings over time.

It's not real hot here today, but I think the Gree cools down the area faster.
The temperature of the air seems colder, or it's coming out faster (or both).

Not sure, but I think both the Sanyo and Gree have a SEER of 21.
I see a similar power use by the Gree under similar conditions.

That crankcase heater isn't on all the time, only when it's cool outside..
Sometimes in the summer, I used to cut the breaker when no cooling was needed.
IIRC a Cool-only Sanyo 24k owner told me he didn't have a crankcase heater.
Meaning I could just unplug it for the summer..

MN Renovator · 09-22-16, 04:48 AM

When I was perusing different central air system install manuals, it seemed to be a common component in the low ambient kit saying the fan control, sometimes a ball bearing fan, crankcase heater, etc. was required if there would be operation below 55f. So I figure a low ambient kit probably isn't needed at those temps. I've run my standard split system connected to my central air system down to 55f and the compressor still runs fine, despite freezing the evap coil a few times in the 55f to 60f range. Couldn't open the windows though without making the daytime comfort and energy situation worse, Minnesota dew point issues in the fall along with timing a/c runs for the coolest point of the night can be hazardous to your compressor. ..I'll probably put in a freeze thermostat on the evap coil one of these days to prevent damage but it's hard to do that on a 8.5SEER unit built in 1986, you sort of want the energy muncher to need replacement sometimes.

Xringer · 09-22-16, 08:29 AM

It was a little cool last night. Good sleeping weather..
Checked the TEDs this morning. Den=0.2 & LR=0.0 KWh. Not much in 9 hours.

I'm going to turn on the X-Fan function.

http://17uo7e27w1attiybs22of10v.wpen...-v0.0-Web1.pdf

It drys up the coils, when you turn off, after running on a moist day..

The dehumidify mode is really good on this Gree. Way more water comes out the hose,
than we ever had on the LR Sanyo.
Yesterday I checked the drip rate in regular cooling mode and water
flow was more than seen on the Sanyos.. Gree has better firmware?

So far, this Gree unit has not pulled more than 900 watts..
Today, I'll test Turbo mode, to see if it will pop the DIY 10A breaker..

One of the things I noticed, the max amps rating on this 18k Gree is higher than the 24k Sanyo..
But so far, the power usage at these mild temps, seems just about the same..

Anyone have any hints about getting the louver slats to point where I want them?
(Re page 11 of manual pdf).

pinballlooking · 09-22-16, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer

Anyone have any hints about getting the louver slats to point where I want them?
(Re page 11 of manual pdf).

That is the same a mine. Start with button 7 Vertical swing it is more noticeable.

They both work the same way.
You press the button 7 once you will see picture update on the remote and the unit will change the lover position. Just keep pressing the button until you see the picture on the remote to the position you are looking for.

Xringer · 09-22-16, 09:19 AM

This is odd.. My picture doesn't update.. The swing louver icon remains the same..
But, I did figure out how this seemed to work.. I press the button to start the swinging.
And then I watch it. When it pointed where I want it, I press the button again. The swing stops..

Check out the TED picture.. Amazing..

The freight truck is coming today. The defective unit is all packed and ready to go..

EDIT: Just as it was getting too dark to go for a walk, the truck came and took the ODU to Boston.
It's first leg in it's journey down to Jacksonville FA..

Xringer · 09-23-16, 11:17 AM

Another bad flare in the 5/8" line!
I used the new leak detector and found nothing down on the ODU connections,
the 5/8" connection to the IDU indicated a leak..
I was able to tighten the connection a little tighter and put some nylog on
the area, and watched it bubble up.. (video below).

After about 3 days at 200 PSI, and a perfect vacuum/dehydration, I get this!

http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/...pszewjpxo2.mp4

I shut off the service valves. Not going to try a pump-down.
That would suck air into the leak, and contaminate the ODU..

pinballlooking · 09-23-16, 12:04 PM

So the leak detector did a good job finding it?

Xringer · 09-23-16, 05:46 PM

Oh no.. My reply post didn't post.. I must have gone out and started the repair and didn't hit the right button..

Yeah, the detector found the exact spot. I cranked down as far as I dared,
re-checked and got faster beeping from the detector.
Put some nylog on on it, and I could see the bubbling..

This afternoon, I decided that a better flare tool is on my want-list.
Up on the ladder, and it took a while to get a flare, that didn't look awful.
It held 200 PSI nitrogen for about an hour.. So, I'm back to vacuuming.
Could not get the copper DIY lines to work right, so I'm on the old hoses.

Not worried about getting 50 microns.. Check the manual..

It's 7:15 PM.. And it's holding R410A, no beeps so far!
I shut the service valves after flooding the lineset.
Just it case we have a re-occurrence of amazingly bad luck.
Tomorrow, I'll use the detector and then some soap bubbles..
If all is well, I'll give it a little test run.

Edit: When I cut the bad flare off, I noticed it didn't look too bad.. Why was it leaking?
I got suspicious of the 5/8 flare nut. So, swapped it out for a heavier nut. More bulk.
Parts leftover from the Sanyos..

Xringer · 09-24-16, 12:27 PM

Looking better this morning.. Ran the Gree in cool, heat & dry modes.
Trying to expand and shrink the copper a bit.. No beeps on the sensor.
No bubbles seen during about a dozen checks since 9AM.. (13:25 now).
The Gree seems to be running normally. No error codes.

http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/...pskh2f0vro.mp4

I'll clean off the soap and let things dry out this afternoon and give it some
last sweeps with the detector this evening..
If all is well, I'll insulate and close up the lineset cover sections..

stevehull · 09-24-16, 02:12 PM

Rich - your tenacity is amazing! I am impressed for many reasons.

Steve

09-22-16, 08:29 AM	#83
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	It was a little cool last night. Good sleeping weather.. Checked the TEDs this morning. Den=0.2 & LR=0.0 KWh. Not much in 9 hours. I'm going to turn on the X-Fan function. http://17uo7e27w1attiybs22of10v.wpen...-v0.0-Web1.pdf It drys up the coils, when you turn off, after running on a moist day.. The dehumidify mode is really good on this Gree. Way more water comes out the hose, than we ever had on the LR Sanyo. Yesterday I checked the drip rate in regular cooling mode and water flow was more than seen on the Sanyos.. Gree has better firmware? So far, this Gree unit has not pulled more than 900 watts.. Today, I'll test Turbo mode, to see if it will pop the DIY 10A breaker.. One of the things I noticed, the max amps rating on this 18k Gree is higher than the 24k Sanyo.. But so far, the power usage at these mild temps, seems just about the same.. Anyone have any hints about getting the louver slats to point where I want them? (Re page 11 of manual pdf). __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

09-22-16, 09:19 AM	#85
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	This is odd.. My picture doesn't update.. The swing louver icon remains the same.. But, I did figure out how this seemed to work.. I press the button to start the swinging. And then I watch it. When it pointed where I want it, I press the button again. The swing stops.. Check out the TED picture.. Amazing.. The freight truck is coming today. The defective unit is all packed and ready to go.. EDIT: Just as it was getting too dark to go for a walk, the truck came and took the ODU to Boston. It's first leg in it's journey down to Jacksonville FA.. Attached Thumbnails __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less.. Last edited by Xringer; 09-22-16 at 08:23 PM.. Reason: pickup

09-23-16, 11:17 AM	#86
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Bad Flare! Another bad flare in the 5/8" line! I used the new leak detector and found nothing down on the ODU connections, the 5/8" connection to the IDU indicated a leak.. I was able to tighten the connection a little tighter and put some nylog on the area, and watched it bubble up.. (video below). After about 3 days at 200 PSI, and a perfect vacuum/dehydration, I get this! http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/...pszewjpxo2.mp4 I shut off the service valves. Not going to try a pump-down. That would suck air into the leak, and contaminate the ODU.. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

09-23-16, 12:04 PM	#87
pinballlooking Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: SC Posts: 2,923 Thanks: 172 Thanked 564 Times in 463 Posts	So the leak detector did a good job finding it? __________________ Current project Aquaponics system , Passive Solar Greenhouse build To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Solar Install 12.5 Kwh- To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Mini Split installs - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. EV Chevy Volt - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

09-23-16, 05:46 PM	#88
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Oh no.. My reply post didn't post.. I must have gone out and started the repair and didn't hit the right button.. Yeah, the detector found the exact spot. I cranked down as far as I dared, re-checked and got faster beeping from the detector. Put some nylog on on it, and I could see the bubbling.. This afternoon, I decided that a better flare tool is on my want-list. Up on the ladder, and it took a while to get a flare, that didn't look awful. It held 200 PSI nitrogen for about an hour.. So, I'm back to vacuuming. Could not get the copper DIY lines to work right, so I'm on the old hoses. Not worried about getting 50 microns.. Check the manual.. It's 7:15 PM.. And it's holding R410A, no beeps so far! I shut the service valves after flooding the lineset. Just it case we have a re-occurrence of amazingly bad luck. Tomorrow, I'll use the detector and then some soap bubbles.. If all is well, I'll give it a little test run. Edit: When I cut the bad flare off, I noticed it didn't look too bad.. Why was it leaking? I got suspicious of the 5/8 flare nut. So, swapped it out for a heavier nut. More bulk. Parts leftover from the Sanyos.. Attached Thumbnails __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less.. Last edited by Xringer; 09-24-16 at 05:57 PM.. Reason: Trying to keep up with the problems..

09-22-16, 04:48 AM	#82
MN Renovator Less usage=Cheaper bills Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 939 Thanks: 41 Thanked 116 Times in 90 Posts	When I was perusing different central air system install manuals, it seemed to be a common component in the low ambient kit saying the fan control, sometimes a ball bearing fan, crankcase heater, etc. was required if there would be operation below 55f. So I figure a low ambient kit probably isn't needed at those temps. I've run my standard split system connected to my central air system down to 55f and the compressor still runs fine, despite freezing the evap coil a few times in the 55f to 60f range. Couldn't open the windows though without making the daytime comfort and energy situation worse, Minnesota dew point issues in the fall along with timing a/c runs for the coolest point of the night can be hazardous to your compressor. ..I'll probably put in a freeze thermostat on the evap coil one of these days to prevent damage but it's hard to do that on a 8.5SEER unit built in 1986, you sort of want the energy muncher to need replacement sometimes.

09-24-16, 12:27 PM	#89
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Looking better this morning.. Ran the Gree in cool, heat & dry modes. Trying to expand and shrink the copper a bit.. No beeps on the sensor. No bubbles seen during about a dozen checks since 9AM.. (13:25 now). The Gree seems to be running normally. No error codes. http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/...pskh2f0vro.mp4 I'll clean off the soap and let things dry out this afternoon and give it some last sweeps with the detector this evening.. If all is well, I'll insulate and close up the lineset cover sections.. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

09-24-16, 02:12 PM	#90
stevehull Steve Hull Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: hilly, tree covered Arcadia, OK USA Posts: 826 Thanks: 241 Thanked 165 Times in 123 Posts	Rich - your tenacity is amazing! I am impressed for many reasons. Steve __________________ consulting on geothermal heating/cooling & rational energy use since 1990