Chicken Coop Built From Old Pallets

by Tim Fulton on February 4, 2013

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What would you do if you had a bunch of old pallets laying around? The answers would differ from person to person. Some might make neat bookshelves out of them while others might burn them to keep warm, still others might use them to make a composting area. However, forum user Acuario decided he was going to build a chicken coop.

There are no plans available for the coop. Acuario just took a bit of time to think it out ahead of time and went to work. He even claims to be pretty bad with woodworking.

The tools he used to build the chicken coop are:

  • jigsaw
  • tape measure
  • hammer
  • electric screwdriver (drill with a bit)
  • set square
  • staple gun

This article isn’t really intended as a DIY article exactly. But, the design is relatively simple and should be able to be followed from the many pictures below.

chicken coop

Starting with a pile of pallets.

chicken coop

chicken coop

Build the sides up with posts at each corner to nail to.

chicken coop

chicken coop

Don’t forget to add an opening for the chickens!

chicken coop

A sheet of plastic was used to help keep rain out of the coop.

chicken coop

chicken coop

Easy access to the coop.

chicken coop

The chickens seem to like it. It is certainly better than what they can build on their own.

To see more details of the build you can check out Actuario’s forum thread on the chicken coop.

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DIY Simple and Great Looking LED Light Fixture

by Tim Fulton on January 21, 2013

Post image for DIY Simple and Great Looking LED Light Fixture

For some time now, the members of the forum have been testing and reporting back on LED lights they’ve bought and tried out. These are almost always some form of retrofit bulb with a standard E26 or similar screw base. However, Opiesche, a forum user, decided to take a different route. He went ahead and make his own fixture for a string type LED light modules.

Opiesche claims these fixtures cost around $20 each to make from the following materials:

  • 1/4″ plywood
  • A strip of acrylic
  • 1/2″ – 3/4″ binding posts and matching bolts
  • Adhesive
  • Aluminum L-profile
  • LED modules
  • LED power supply

lumen chart

The first thing that must be done is calculate how much light you want the LED fixture to put out. With the chart above, you can see a standard incandescent 60W light bulb puts out about 800 lumens. Each of the LED modules in the string puts out 70 lumens. So, you need roughly 11 of these LED modules to put out the same amount of light as a 60W fixture. If you want more light you need more modules in the string.

Now that we know how many modules we want, its time to size a power supply. These LED lights run off of 12V DC power, not 110V AC household power, so we need a 12V power supply. According to the specifications of these LED modules, each module consumes .7W (the reseller’s site is wrong). So, if we have 11 modules, we need at least a 7.7W power supply. For safety sake its definitely recommended to round upwards around 10%, so a 9W supply should be the minimum. If you have 3 or 4 of these fixtures running off the same power supply increase the power supply’s output accordingly.

led fixture - plywood backing

Now, on to building the fixtures. Opiesche started with a 1/4″ thick plywood strip of wood as the backing plate. The shape of the plywood depends on the shape of the fixture you want. You’ll also want to figure out where the mounting holes and mounting points for the acrylic glazing will go, and drill holes for them at this time. Painting the plywood is optional depending on what you want the fixture to look like.

led fixture - acrylic glazing

Next, a piece of acrylic is cut roughly 1″ (25cm) larger in each dimension than the plywood piece. Opiesche used a jigsaw with a fine blade to cut it. It is then cleaned and sprayed with a frosted glass spray on each side. Two coats are recommended for a nice frosted look.

led fixture - gluing

Now, you need to figure out how you want the lights arranged. Keep in mind they are all attached, and you also need points to mount the light to the wall with a screw or something, and you also need mounting points for the acrylic glazing. Once you have figured it out, use your adhesive to glue the modules to the plywood. Be careful not to tug on the next module before the first is secure. Opiesche used locktite power grab, and said it worked pretty good.

led fixture - threaded coupling

led fixture - mounting post

Install the glazing mounting points. Once they are installed you can set the acrylic glazing on the mounting points and mark out where the holes need to be drilled. When drilling, start with a smaller drill bit than needed and use very little pressure to avoid cracking the acrylic. Once the smaller hole is drilled, move on to the necessary drill bit size and again use very little pressure to avoid cracking.

After the holes are drilled, you may mount the backing plate with LEDs on it to the wall or ceiling.

led fixture - trim

led fixture - trim

Finally, cut two pieces of aluminum L-profile to the length of the acrylic or slightly longer. Use your adhesive to glue it to the sides of the acrylic.

Once it is cured you are ready to bolt the acrylic glazing up to the LED fixture and you’re done!

led fixture

The last step is purely cosmetic, and leaves plenty of room to make the fixture your own design. The trim could be replaced with a wood you like that is painted or stained, or any other material you like. Opiesche even made one without a trim piece around the sides if you’re just looking for a simpler look.

For more info on the LED fixture build, see Opiesche’s forum thread.

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DIY Heat Pump Water Heater From a Dehumidifier

by Tim Fulton on January 14, 2013

Post image for DIY Heat Pump Water Heater From a Dehumidifier

Over the last two months or so, forum user Hv23t has been working on a DIY heat pump water heater. It actually started with a scrap run. His neighbors saw what he was doing and asked if he could haul off a few things for them. In the end he was left with a couple dehumidifiers that didn’t work and a few hot water heaters that didn’t have any problems. Instead of scrapping these things, Hv23t decided to do some tinkering to see what could be done with them.

heat pump

He started with modifying one of the electric hot water heater tanks he got. It was first checked for any leaks, and then he went about installing a coil of 30 foot long 1/4″ copper refrigerant tubing into the tank through one of the heating coil holes. This is similar to what the A7 AirTap does. To seal the tubing entrance/exit points, he reused one of the hex plugs in the tank. It was drilled and tapped for 1/8″ npt fittings. He then inserted 1/8″ npt to 1/4″ compression fittings in the two holes. The 1/4″ tubing was fed through the compression fittings and the hex plug was re-installed in the water heater tank.

The next step was to get one of the dehumidifiers working. Hv23t found that one of the dehumidifiers had hardly any R22 refrigerant left in it, so he pumped some more refrigerant into it and it came right back to life.

modified propane torch

Not happy with that setup, he used a vacuum pump to remove the R22, and instead filled it up with propane. To do this, Hv23t modified a propane torch tip by brazing a 1/4″ flare fitting to the end of it.

heat pump

The new setup using propane (R290) reduced power usage from 435 – 450 watts down to 365 – 410 watts. He also measured the temperatures in the 140s (F) on the hot side. Sounds plenty warm for hot water.

heat pump

With the dehumidifier now working and even having its inefficiency increased, it was time to hook the dehumidifier up to the hot water tank and do a little modification to the dehumidifier as well. The 1/4″ tubing from the tank was brazed to the hot side of the dehumidifier’s heat pump. At the same time, the existing heat exchanger from the hot side was replumbed into the cold side increasing the cold side heat exchanger’s surface area.

After everything was replumbed, the water heater was ready for its first test. The tank started at 67 degrees F (19.5 C) and after 1 hour and 51 minutes the heat pump kicked off at the hot water heater’s set point of 100F (38C).

The test was a great success, but of course there were some issues to fix up. The biggest one being that the cold side heat exchanger frosted up like a brick of ice. This significantly hinders its ability to exchange heat which reduces efficiency. We’ll look at that issue, the installation and efficiency testing of the heater in the next article.

For more details on this project, see Hv23t’s forum thread.

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Post image for DIY Solar Powered Alarm Clock – Solar Panel Charger

In our first article, I explained my needs/wants for the alarm clock and ended up selecting the Elgin 3350E shown above. It is a battery powered alarm clock with an automatic back lighting feature. If the room is lit up by the sun or by lights, the clock turns the back lighting off to save on battery life. However, once it gets dark in the room, it turns the back light on so you can see what time it is. It also has some pretty good reviews on amazon and it is also pretty inexpensive.

alarm clock

The clock requires 3 AA batteries. The batteries I will be using are what you see above. They are some nimh rechargeable batteries I nabbed from the local harbor freight. Any nimh battery will work, but you’ll have to change what solar panel you use according to what batteries you have to use in the clock.

Now that we know what batteries we’re going to use, we can figure out how to charge them. I did a bit of surfing to find some good info and came across this site:

How to charge nickle metal hydride batteries

“The cheapest way to charge a nickel metal hydride battery is to charge at C/10 or below (10% of the rated capacity per hour). So a 100 mAH battery would be charged at 10 mA for 15 hours. This method does not require an end-of-charge sensor and ensures a full charge. Modern cells have an oxygen recycling catalyst which prevents damage to the battery on overcharge, but this recycling cannot keep up if the charge rate is over C/10. The minimum voltage you need to get a full charge varies with temperature–at least 1.41 volts per cell at 20 degrees C. Even though continued charging at C/10 does not cause venting, it does warm the battery slightly.”

This is a great bit of info for us. It contains basically everything we need to figure out our solar setup. Prepare yourself for a little math and electronics speak as we delve into the world of charging batteries.

The batteries I am using are rated at 2200 mAh. The quote above says I can charge them at C/10 safely. C is the battery capacity which is 2200 mAh. This simply means that I can charge them at a rate of 2200/10 = 220 mA. So, I want to find a solar panel that puts out 220 mA or less to avoid doing any damage to my batteries. This is great news because it means I don’t need a charge controller or any additional circuitry to complicate things.

solar panel

The next step is figuring out the solar panel voltage. Again, we’ll look at the quoted paragraph that says we need at least 1.41V per cell. Well, the clock is using 3 batteries, so we need to provide 3 x 1.41V = 4.23V. Unfortunately, you can’t just go out and buy a 4.23V solar panel. However, 5V and 6V panels are readily available. Either of these will work, but we have to figure out a way to get them to put out 4.23V.

I ended up purchasing the solar panel you see above from ebay. It is rated at 5V output and 200 ma. A 6V panel that is rated for 220 ma or less would work just fine too.

diode

But, we still have to get the panel’s voltage down to 4.23V. To get this voltage drop is actually quite easy, and it is going to be done by another component we need for the solar setup anyway. That component is a diode. It is essentially a one way / check valve for electronics. The diode is not only going to provide a voltage drop down to 4.23V, but it also stops the solar panel from draining the batteries when the sun isn’t shining on them. All solar panel setups use these, and you can get them with different voltage drops.

To get the diode, I went to digikey.com. They have an insane amount of electrical components and shipping is pretty cheap too. This is the diode I selected if you want to use a 5V panel like me. It will provide an approximate voltage drop of .75V giving an output of 4.25V which is close enough for this application. Alternativly, if you wanted to use a 6V panel, this diode should work fine for you. It has a 1.75V drop and will give you a similar 4.25V output.

Once I get all these things in the mail we’ll start putting them together!

For the latest info and a bit more detail, see the forum thread.

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DIY Solar Powered Alarm Clock – Clock Selection

by Tim Fulton on December 31, 2012

Post image for DIY Solar Powered Alarm Clock – Clock Selection

I am in the market for a new alarm clock. My old one I’ve had for around 10 years now and it has recently started making an annoying electric buzzing noise similar to a bad florescent light. I also know that it pulls a constant 3W from the wall according to my killawatt. This seems a bit ridiculous considering there are plenty of alarm clocks out there that run for long lengths of time on a single AAA battery. Anyway, I figured it would be cool idea to get an alarm clock that was solar powered. I don’t need fancy features like a cd player or even a radio that the old alarm clock had (and I never used). I just need something I can see in the dark, and something that will wake me up.

alarm clock

I started by doing some googling and amazoning, but wasn’t really able to find what I was looking for. All of the solar powered alarm clocks I found don’t have a back light that is on all night long, probably to increase battery life. My alarm clock is set out of reach, so a ‘push to light up button’ isn’t going to work for me. So, my search for an off the shelf solar powered alarm clock quickly came to an end.

What is a guy to do if he can’t find a product that fits his needs/wants? Well, if you’ve read EcoRenovator at all before (or if you read the title) you already know the answer, DIY!

alarm clock

What I did instead was started searching for some battery powered alarm clocks with the features I wanted. You can always add a solar charging circuit to something that has a rechargable battery in it. What I found was that there are a few alarm clocks out there that do have back lights that stay on all night, but turn off if there is light in the room. This was a nifty power saving feature that helped narrow down my selection. In the end, I selected the Elgin 3350E. Its even quite reasonably priced. I chose this clock over my second choice because it uses 3 AA batteries versus 3 AAA batteries and I’m betting that the AAs will last longer. However, the larger batteries also do give us another advantage that I’ll talk about in the next article when we figure out the second half of this setup, the solar panel charging.

Check out the next article in this series, DIY Solar Powered Alarm Clock – Solar Panel Charger.

If you’d like to see the latest news on the DIY solar powered alarm clock just hit the link to our forum.

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