01-29-13, 03:22 PM | #1 |
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Arduino CO2 Sensor Controls PWM Fans in HRV
(* The title of this thread should have been "Arduino CO2 Sensor Controls PWM Fans in HRV, not "PCM" Fans. My bad. *)
EDIT (2014-06-09): For those who may doubt the need for a HRV, or a CO2 controlled HRV, here is some interesting reading. Thanks to BBP. A new EcoRenovator from Ireland, cerberus, tipped me off to some inexpensive CO2 sensors. In the past, CO2 sensors had been pretty expensive, but the attractive price (about $10) got me started. Thanks, cerberus! * * * My project idea is that HRVs are used to provide fresh air and at the same time minimize home heat loss. The heat loss from the outgoing air can be reduced, but never reduced to zero. A 'smart' HRV would sense the level of CO2 and when the level of CO2 reached a predetermined allowable level, it would run the fans. If the CO2 level was higher, it would run the fans at a higher speed, if the CO2 was lower, it would run the fans at a lower speed, and if the CO2 was acceptably low, the fans would not run at all. EDIT: My thinking has changed on this part of the project. I'm now considering using the varying voltage from pin 4 of the CO2 sensor as an input to one of the Analog in pins on the Arduino... and controling the Arduino's PWM pin with that. I found some examples of that HERE and HERE. This would increase the overall efficiency because the HRV heat loss would only be incurred when required. So far, petty simple. This project will use an Arduino to read a CO2 Sensor (Telair 6004) and then use the CO2 readings as input to control PWM fans in the HRV. Here is a photo of one of the CO2 monotoring boards, measuring about 2" x 2" in all it's twinkling, gold-toned beauty: Wow! $10 CO2 Sensor, pretty cute! An here is a diagram of the 12 pins that seen at the bottom of the photo above... And some documents:
So the Telaire 6004 is capable of either analog output (pretty good) or digital output (pretty accurate). But so far as I have been able to determine, the digital output is not so easy to implement. I was able to locate the following code to read the analog output pin (pin 4) on the Telaire 6004 and to blink an LED that is connected to Arduino digital output (pin 13). Code:
/* Analog Input Demonstrates analog input by reading an analog sensor on analog pin 0 and turning on and off a light emitting diode(LED) connected to digital pin 13. The amount of time the LED will be on and off depends on the value obtained by analogRead(). int sensorPin = A0; // select the input pin for the potentiometer int sensorValue = 0; // variable to store the value coming from the sensor void setup() { } void loop() { // read the value from the sensor: sensorValue = analogRead(sensorPin); // sensorValue is the variable that stores what the CO2 reading is // Send the value back to the computer Serial.println(sensorValue); } * * * Since I am barely able to make an Arduino blink it's little light (which is the most basic exercise in the Arduino House of Chops), I can use help. So, I'm open to any ideas from any of you Arduino dudes & dudettes on this project. I ain't proud. Best, -AC
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01-29-13, 09:28 PM | #2 |
Steve Hull
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AC,
Using CO2 as a trigger for an HRV (or ERV) will not work as a reliable index of home air "staleness". Here is why . . . The average adult at rest gives off about 200 ml of pure CO2 per minute. Let's think of an really airtight house with four people in it after 7 days. Assume a house of 1200 ft2 and a height of 8 ft (volume of 9600 ft3 or 270 meters3). Four people at the end of one week give off 8,600 L of pure CO2 (8.1 meter3). The increase in CO2 at the end of one week in a literally airtight house with four people is 0.03% (8.1/270)- an almost vanishing small number to trigger with. A FAR better option is to place the HRV (or ERV) air intakes in the bathrooms running at about 10-20 CFM. When either the bathroom light or shower light goes on, then the blower speed goes up 2-3 times (with a "hang" timer to keep the higher fan on for 5-10 minutes post use). I used this exact scheme in a home I built over 20 years ago and had indoor winter humidities between 30-35% and summer between 45-50% (no higher). No steam covered windows in bathrooms, always fresh in the home and no mildew in walls. I looked at CO2, did the calculations and am wondering why commercial units use it. People "believe" CO2 will build up, but in even a super tight home (one air change per day), the use of CO2 as a trigger doesn't cut it. Thoughts? Steve
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01-30-13, 10:49 AM | #3 |
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I think stevehull has a point here.
Maybe the problem is not the CO2 after all, but the stale air by its self. What makes the inside air uncomfortable is a mix of (ok, CO2), humidity, odors, smoke (for smokers and cooks), ecc, and that's not easy to detect by electronic sensors. I guess the best method is to try down and find the minimum acceptable air change for each environment. |
01-30-13, 10:58 AM | #4 | ||||
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Steve, I don’t need to 'think' of a really airtight house because I live in one right now.
Quote:
Here are ASHRE & OSHA specs:
I also previously came across some studies of German shool children that indicated a much elevated level of performance when levels of CO2 were reduced well below ASHRE standards. I just did a search for that information I had found previously, and am not able to locate it... However, I did find this: Quote:
My design parameters are:
I'm sure I'll be tinkering with that. Quote:
The CO2 monitor is the first part of the project, after I get that going I will integrate a DH22 (AKA: RHT03) into the controller to monitor humidity. Quote:
Doesn’t cut it? Steve, right now I live in a house that I am radically insulating & sealing. I actually have first hand experience with what it is like to not have sufficient fresh air. I don’t need to imagine what it would be like... I am there right now. It is unpleasant, I am not just dreaming up a new project. Steve, your research would be more interesting if it actually had a bearing on what I am now experiencing. Do you have any experience with circuit design or software? -AC
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01-30-13, 02:16 PM | #5 |
Steve Hull
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AC,
I can guarantee that CO2 is not building up. Rather, "stale air" is out gassing of construction components, the infamous body odor, cooking smells, but by far the humidity is the dominant issue. Our respiratory control system is such that even tiny increases in the ppm of CO2 (2-3 ppm) will cause us to increase ventilation rate. It is almost impossible to withstand an environment with 1000 ppm of CO2. Let's see what your house has in it. One way to test this is to hook up the CO2 sensor and record a week's data. All houses have air leakage. I believe the very best that I know of had one complete air exchange every 48 hours. I suspect your tight house has an exchange every 30 hours or so (very, very tight construction). I have a lot of experience with CO2 monitoring and can help you with hooking up the analog output of the CO2 sensor to the A/D port. Biu while you are there, hook up a relative humidity detector as well. Most homes do very well by using a constant 10-20 CFM HRV (or ERV) exchange volume all day long. The reason to kick it up is shower/bathroom use. I used a DPDT wall switch to both control the 120 V light above the shower and to increase the air CFM to 50-60 CFM with a 555 timer "one shot" to keep the HRV fan on for an additional 15 minutes after the light went off. The wall switch just to the bathroom turned also turned on the HRV fan to high for only 5 minutes. Measure your CO2 and humidity - let's see what the house has in it now. Steve
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01-30-13, 03:01 PM | #6 |
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Steve, I'm happy that you are offering guarantees with your opinions... this may come in handy at a later date.
In your first post, you said that: "The average adult at rest gives off about 200 ml of pure CO2 per minute." ...and the rest of your calculations flowed from that number. That may be a safe way to design living systems where you live, but where I live, I and most of the people I know are not content to spend their lives 'at rest'. So, along this line, I happened across this useful chart... And also, I looked at your ventilation rates and I calculate that your recommended rates would result in a 100% air change in 144 minutes @ 10 CFM and 72 minutes @20 CFM in my conditioned space. I'll happily supply CO2 info when I get my circuit working, which is what I'm currently seeking help on. Best, -AC
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01-30-13, 03:42 PM | #7 |
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Hi AC,
I think maybe Steve and you are talking past each other. I didn't quite realize until a few days ago what all the fuss was about HRVs. When I read an update of your thread recently about your insulation project on your house I got a real ah ha moment. From everything I've read in that thread it sounds like the air quality problems you observe that neccessitates an HRV comes from excessive moisture tightness, not air tightness. I'm no expert but I'm very good with logic and my logic tells me that one can have near perfect air tightness and still have vapor permeability. This is the ideal. You want your home to have vapor permeability so you don't have mold problems while still making your home as airtight as possible. The opposite, perfect vapor tightness ALWAYS comes with perfect airtightness. Like I've said, I've been wrong before and may be now, but I think you are confusing the airtightness of your house as causing the air quality problems, when it is really your vapor tightness that is causing it. There are many very good articles on the internet at both Green Building Advisor and at Building Science that explains the difference in the two concepts. I think it may also explain why a more radical solution, such as an HRV may be a good solution for you. It in fact may be the best solution for the situation you have. But in situations where the home is airtight while being vapor permeable then I agree with Steve that a simple venting plan is often sufficient. |
01-30-13, 04:42 PM | #8 |
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Actually, Maybe an ERV would be more appropriate than an HRV because my understanding is that an ERV handles humidity as well as air and temperature exchanges. It seems like the situation AC is working with is a humid house.
Actually I'm a little confused about this. ERV's are usually used in humid climates but this isn't strictly the case in Portland, OR. Maybe someone else knows more about this, such as whether ERV's handle humidity in just one direction or both directions. If they can handle it in both directions depending on the direction of vapor drive, then an ERV seem more appropriate for AC's house, rather than an HRV. |
01-30-13, 05:44 PM | #9 |
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HRV vs. ERV
-AC
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01-30-13, 05:58 PM | #10 |
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Well, that answers that. It seems to imply the humidity filtering only occurs in one direction - outside to inside. Too bad.
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