Gree "Crown" 18kBTU install

[pinballlooking]

Very nice… good to see it up and running.
I saw those hard lines in another post and I just might make a set of them myself.

[jeff5may]

If you want to get as close to an absolute vacuum as possible, hard lines are the way to do it. I have gotten down below 100 microns with them as well. But according to most (if not all) manufacturers, this is not necessary for reliable operation. How deep is sufficient is specified differently in service manuals made by different manufacturers.

[pelotin]

Originally Posted by Xringer

Thanks guys! And thanks to pelotin for posting about that Rothenberger flaring tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm wondering just how it grips the tubing.?. I see the 8 little flat plates, but I can't see how they don't dent the copper.?.
On my flair bar, there are little sharp rings inside the clamp,
and I don't like the way the tube can slip down, if the clamping isn't real tight..
It marks up the copper too. Messy looking..

The Rothenberger seems like it would work well in tight locations..

~~~
Pressure is still holding. Just checked again and it's at 204 PSI and 70.4F..
~~~

A while back, I saw a picture of someone running a vacuum pump,
and he had made a short section of 1/4" copper with flare connectors,
to keep things short and more leak-proof on his vacuum task..?. I assume.

This evening, I made a couple of short 1/4" lines with some 'okay' flares.
I wanted to make sure my vac-pump was still working right..
(One line is about 14" and the other about 24").
Connected the meter using the DIY lines right to the vac pump..
The pump is okay and both lines were excellent, taking 50 to 75 seconds,
to get down to 45 microns.. (Moisture in the 24" line, because I washed it. 1st run was a bit slow)

I might use these two copper lines to pull the vacuum on this new Gree..
And eliminate the rubber hose leakage that can cause problems getting down to 200 microns..
It would be great to get down in the 50 micron range!

Maybe it was me doing a vacuum with my own copper flared connections?

[pelotin]

Originally Posted by jeff5may

If you want to get as close to an absolute vacuum as possible, hard lines are the way to do it. I have gotten down below 100 microns with them as well. But according to most (if not all) manufacturers, this is not necessary for reliable operation. How deep is sufficient is specified differently in service manuals made by different manufacturers.

This was on my recent LG installation

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by jeff5may

If you want to get as close to an absolute vacuum as possible, hard lines are the way to do it. I have gotten down below 100 microns with them as well. But according to most (if not all) manufacturers, this is not necessary for reliable operation. How deep is sufficient is specified differently in service manuals made by different manufacturers.

I have seen where 200 microns is recommended, but have not heard of a
'Do not go below this' limit.. While studying for the EPA type I test,
I read something like "there is no such thing as too much vacuum"..

IIRC, on the old Sanyo that I repaired, some R410A was leaking out of the ODU, and into the lineset, while I was trying get a good vac..
It was very hard to get down under 200. Should have used copper lines!

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by pelotin

Maybe it was me doing a vacuum with my own copper flared connections?

That sure looks like the picture I remember.. Thanks for re-posting it.

A real pro would never use DIY copper vac lines, because they aren't going to be very durable.
After a dozen installs, they would start wearing out.?.
Just have to buy the very best YellowJacket lines..

But this idea is prefect for us DIYers who only do a new install every 8 or 10 years..
I'm hoping this new Gree will last about 15 years..

[WyrTwister]

Think I have read 500 microns is OK .

Then there is the 3rd world method .

God bless
Wyr

[pinballlooking]

How much faster did it drawn down the vacuum with the hard lines.

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by pinballlooking

How much faster did it drawn down the vacuum with the hard lines.

I wasn't timing the whole operation (halting and restarting varied)
but I feel it cut the over-all time about in half.. I didn't rush it at all.
But that's likely because of my cheap hoses.
I have one short hose that I purchased way back when, and another one
just like it is on the way.. Maybe get here today..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AX3EQ0

With two, (gauge in middle) I could possibly get a system down under 100 microns.. Maybe.
With copper, 100 would be pretty much a sure thing..

What really impressed me with the copper, was how fast I could get the
copper lines(only) down to around 46 microns!
I know they are short and the ID isn't that large, but still impressive..
During vac/dehydration, when the 'stable' LED would come on, I would shut
the cut-off and watch the gauge plummet quickly to less than 50..
Flip the cut-off back open and yank some more moisture out of the lineset..
Kept doing that until the stable LED was coming on, around 100 microns..

I could have done the whole operation a lot faster, if I wanted to hit 200..
But, I was interested in seeing how well the DIY copper vac lines would work.
They work very well.. I Highly recommend them to DIYers..
And you get to make practice flares! Test your pump etc..

This really is a hobby.. Not really Rocket Science, unless you want it to be..
Sometimes it can be frustrating, sometimes satisfying.
We just came back from a nice walk in the sun.. The house was too warm..
But that changed in about 5 minutes..

I looked at the TEDs, last night it was cool, so the old Sanyo used 0.4 KWh
heating the pump crankcase/oil.. But, the new Gree didn't turn on any heat..
It didn't use any power over-night.. Nice! Maybe it triggers at a lower OD air temp..?.

[pinballlooking]

Can you tell how it is doing compared to the Sanyo heating or cooling?

"Sanyo used 0.4 KWh" That could add up to a good savings over time.