eco pipe heat wrap? - Page 2

Drake · 02-04-16, 06:06 PM

I hadn't thought about heat tape and NON-metalic pipe. I want to use HDPE pipe as it can take freezing if it should happen. Would oversizing the pipe be to any advantage in preventing freezing? Main line is currently 1", could go to 1 1/4 or 1 1/2. Still exploring the thru heated portion of existing space but it would have to be along ceiling somewhere.

jeff5may · 02-05-16, 12:19 AM

Been there and done that in Colorado. Here's your cheat sheet:

1. Run the pipe through conditioned spaces or underground wherever possible. If buried above frost line , wrap with heat trace and armaflex closed cell foam.

2. Use hdpe thick wall tubing, all one piece if possible. If you have to splice it, butt or socket weld it rather than using a clamped fitting. That way, if it does ever freeze, nothing is going to bust or develop a leak. If you have to use a fitting, shark bites work well.

3. Find somewhere that sells the cut-to-length-yourself heat trace cable. It comes in high or low density flavors, and is self-regulating (no hotspots). The cable is color coded, hi density cable is a different color than low density. One end of the trace cable connects to a thermostat power pigtail on the pipe, with a power cord that runs to a plug or junction box. The other end gets a gel cap insulator. The people who sell it in your area ain't home depoo. They will carry the armaflex you need and can give you good advice on how much of what you need in your town. I believe the brand I found was EASY HEAT.
The stuff looks like this:

4. Use foam insulation. The split loom open cell stuff isn't that great, but is much better than the paper or fiberglass wrap stuff. The rubber armaflex dominates. For extreme protection, there is direct burial stuff that I have seen just laid on the ground. It looks like corrugated drain line filled with a foam core. It snaps together like drain line, too.

uponor ecoflex supra (not exactly the same, but close)

I learned the hard way: do it right the first time or pay later. The more you cheap out at first, the more it will cost in the end. Digging for leaks sucks.

WyrTwister · 02-05-16, 08:17 AM

As has been pointed out , there is no super efficient electric resistance heat . If you need 10 watts of heat , you have to pay for 10 watts of electricity .

I agree , heat tape on the pipe , with lots of insulation on top .

God bless
Wyr

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02-04-16, 06:06 PM	#11
Drake DIY Guy Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mpls,MN Posts: 315 Thanks: 2 Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts	I hadn't thought about heat tape and NON-metalic pipe. I want to use HDPE pipe as it can take freezing if it should happen. Would oversizing the pipe be to any advantage in preventing freezing? Main line is currently 1", could go to 1 1/4 or 1 1/2. Still exploring the thru heated portion of existing space but it would have to be along ceiling somewhere.

02-05-16, 12:19 AM	#12
jeff5may Supreme EcoRenovator Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: elizabethtown, ky, USA Posts: 2,428 Thanks: 431 Thanked 619 Times in 517 Posts	Been there and done that in Colorado. Here's your cheat sheet: 1. Run the pipe through conditioned spaces or underground wherever possible. If buried above frost line , wrap with heat trace and armaflex closed cell foam. 2. Use hdpe thick wall tubing, all one piece if possible. If you have to splice it, butt or socket weld it rather than using a clamped fitting. That way, if it does ever freeze, nothing is going to bust or develop a leak. If you have to use a fitting, shark bites work well. 3. Find somewhere that sells the cut-to-length-yourself heat trace cable. It comes in high or low density flavors, and is self-regulating (no hotspots). The cable is color coded, hi density cable is a different color than low density. One end of the trace cable connects to a thermostat power pigtail on the pipe, with a power cord that runs to a plug or junction box. The other end gets a gel cap insulator. The people who sell it in your area ain't home depoo. They will carry the armaflex you need and can give you good advice on how much of what you need in your town. I believe the brand I found was EASY HEAT. The stuff looks like this: 4. Use foam insulation. The split loom open cell stuff isn't that great, but is much better than the paper or fiberglass wrap stuff. The rubber armaflex dominates. For extreme protection, there is direct burial stuff that I have seen just laid on the ground. It looks like corrugated drain line filled with a foam core. It snaps together like drain line, too. uponor ecoflex supra (not exactly the same, but close) I learned the hard way: do it right the first time or pay later. The more you cheap out at first, the more it will cost in the end. Digging for leaks sucks.

02-05-16, 08:17 AM	#13
WyrTwister Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: USA Posts: 543 Thanks: 6 Thanked 44 Times in 38 Posts	As has been pointed out , there is no super efficient electric resistance heat . If you need 10 watts of heat , you have to pay for 10 watts of electricity . I agree , heat tape on the pipe , with lots of insulation on top . God bless Wyr