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Old 03-31-14, 09:56 AM   #21
Daox
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Well, if you go for it, let us know how it all goes.

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Old 03-31-14, 11:24 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Servicetech View Post
I'm reconsidering a Marey due to the HUGE price differnce in installed cost vs. a modualting heater. Modulating heaters require SS venting which pushes the installed cost close to a condensing water heater. Marey 10L plus venting/moving gas line is $325 (about $75 cheaper than tank heater) vs. $1,000+ for a modulating water heater. The numbers actually make sense !!

Marey could be located about 10' closer to point of use since it requires no condensate drain line. Bringing the WH indoors into conditioned space would be required since there is no built in freeze protection, and manual gas adjustments need to be readily accessible. 4" B vent can be obtained locally at reasonable cost.
Have you read the reviews on these? They are not favorable at all.
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Old 04-06-14, 04:39 PM   #23
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The reviews are all over the place. Some love them, some hate them. The bad reviews seem to be related to the non-existent product support or not understanding that the water heater doesn't modulate.

Part of me just wants to bite the bullet and get the $982 Takagi that uses PVC venting. The payback isn't there vs. a tank water heater, but appears to be a much better made unit. If they bring back the $300 tax credit the numbers start making sense.
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Old 04-07-14, 09:17 AM   #24
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I lived with the bosh Aquastar for about 10 years. My new Takagi is electronically controlled it is so much better than the Aquastar ever was. It keeps the water temps so much more consistent. The Aquastar I had to adjust the temp every winter and summer because it was a temp rise not electronically controlled. Start the shower adjust the water temp stay in the shower adjust three more times. You get the point.
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Old 04-07-14, 06:35 PM   #25
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So the manual tankless models are a PITA to adjust? That might be why they never caught on in the USA.

Which takagi do you have?
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Old 04-07-14, 07:23 PM   #26
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Takagi T-H3-DV with 0.95 energy factor.
It is worth it to get this 199,999 btu unit it is not much more that the smaller unit and only uses more fuel if you are using more hot water.
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Old 04-16-15, 03:44 PM   #27
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Default How to vent Marey cheaper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Servicetech View Post
I'm reconsidering a Marey due to the HUGE price differnce in installed cost vs. a modualting heater. Modulating heaters require SS venting which pushes the installed cost close to a condensing water heater. Marey 10L plus venting/moving gas line is $325 (about $75 cheaper than tank heater) vs. $1,000+ for a modulating water heater. The numbers actually make sense !!

Marey could be located about 10' closer to point of use since it requires no condensate drain line. Bringing the WH indoors into conditioned space would be required since there is no built in freeze protection, and manual gas adjustments need to be readily accessible. 4" B vent can be obtained locally at reasonable cost.
B-vent is not allowed for building code where we are, and most areas of USA and Canada. But you touched on the key for bringing down the install cost for materials (and me): It's to keep that expensive stainless steel venting to a minimum.

Here's how: Install the unit on the interior of an exterior wall. Do not vent to the roof because that's much more expensive. Vent through the wall. You just need a 90-degree elbow, a short pipe, and a vent hood (with damper if you are in a cold part of earth). No condensate drain needed. If your wall has no combustible materials (just cinder block and drywall), then you don't need a thimble. Halfway down this page is a more complete venting install guide for the Marey 10L: https://gadgetsgo.com/Marey-10L-natu...er-heater.html.

If you do it yourself, the materials will be under $200.

Last edited by Leafgreen; 04-16-15 at 04:48 PM..
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Old 04-18-15, 06:02 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff5may View Post
Units of this caliber litter the shelves at home despot and slow's. Average DIY network junkies see the hot chicks (rehab addict, crasher girl, etc.) with one in their carts on tv (at slow's), so they must be OK. Monkey see, monkey do. Another Ben Franklin goes to China. On goes the slow decay of American industry.

Your best bet is to ask a few plumbers in the area. If your area is like mine, all the best supply houses are within a few blocks of each other, somewhere. Find out where that is, and either take a tour or let your fingers do the walking. You will be much more likely to end the day with a wise purchase than trolling thru a big box store. And if something ever goes wrong, you can go to the plumber's shop and get some satisfaction from a counter clerk who has a clue what you're talking about.
While I agree with the idea, sadly I found the experience to be the opposite.

Many of these shops don't want to do with one of purchases - one place I tried wouldn't take cash or credit card, it was all bill and check. If they'll sell to you, they sell at MSRP which is often crazy talk. Their 'warranty' is almost going to exclusively require pro installation.
I've resorted to hunting down similar quality products, and using ebay to find these shops that have an employee or owner branching out for some extra cash. You can pretty easily correlate their shipping address with a phone book look up.
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Old 04-18-15, 06:08 PM   #29
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If you are in an area where the water entrance temps don't get too cold, you can use a non-modulating burner and place an anti-scaled mixer after it and let it do the regulation.
Obviously you'll have to size right and likely live in the southern US or similar. The valve uses a simple expanding wax and spring so it's reliable and adjustible.

Similar approach to solar water heater owners storing as much heat as they can during the day, and then down mixing it if needed.
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Old 04-19-15, 08:25 AM   #30
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Why does the Marey require SS vent when a standard tank water heater can use B vent? Relocating to an exterior wall is expensive/impractical if you don't have a basement/accessible exterior wall.

The mixing valve idea wont work because the water heater output will will get hotter as water flow is reduced.

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