Dual Compressor ASHP for DHW - Page 2

AC_Hacker · 02-12-12, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer

This Alfa Laval AC10-16 HX has great pressure specs and it's not to costly..
Maybe one of these would work if the demand was kept under 5000 BTUs.?.

Did you cite the specs for the compressors you intend to use?

This HX would be a better fit for your smaller compressor.

I would advise you to start simple... just use one compressor.

You will have plenty of lessons to learn just getting a single compressor setup to work properly.

Later, if you still feel the itch, you could put in the check valves and another compressor.

You should do this in small increments. There's more to what you are undertaking here than the repair to your Sanyo.

-AC

Xringer · 02-12-12, 08:02 AM

One is a Fedders a6x05f2a 5000 btuh and the other is a GoldStar/LG WG5200R @ 5250 btuh, and it uses R22.
Can't find the right label on the Fedders. It's older, I assume it's also R22.

These are the smallest units that I have in stock.
My only other donator is the old 18,000 BTU in/wall unit.

WG5200R?? http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...1806-00002.png
I wonder what a Sync Motor is??

mrd · 02-12-12, 10:05 AM

Maybe its referring to a synchronous motor instead of an induction motor.. Why is it composed of dashed lines instead of solid?

MN Renovator · 02-12-12, 10:16 AM

Not sure what I'm looking at but the motor isn't the only thing showing sync. There is the switch and display showing multiple references to sync.

mrd · 02-12-12, 10:23 AM

It looks like the labels CN-xx are connectors on the board, and RY-xx are relays mounted on the board. Perhaps the dashed outline relays are only present in some configurations?

Xringer · 02-12-12, 02:44 PM

Yeah, probably not in this unit. And no medium speed either. Not important.

Maybe I should just start off just keeping it simple and use the other little AC for another project someday.

It would be a lot cheaper on the line set cost. Since I could just replace the
condenser coil with a 'cheap' R22-to-Water HX...
Maybe keep it all in the same box.. With a couple of water connections on the case.

I wonder if it would be possible to use the exiting electronics & remote control..?.
May have to trick the thermistor into thinking the basement is warmer, than it really is..

Xringer · 02-12-12, 05:10 PM

Got a reply back on my question to the HX seller about the size of the water ports.

Hello, all 4 of the holes are Braze connections, 2 are for water and 2 for refrigerant.
The outer shoulder of these are .392 inches for the small port, and .550 inches for the 3 larger ports

If the OD of the ports is 0.55", then the ID must be pretty close to 1/2"..
Close enough to have a pretty good flow rate..

Xringer · 02-17-12, 09:47 AM

I was the only bidder and 'won' one of these little Alfa Laval AC10-16 units for $39.69 USD shipped.

It should be here in about a week. I'll post my impressions etc then..

AC_Hacker · 02-17-12, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer

I was the only bidder and 'won' one of these little Alfa Laval AC10-16 units for $39.69 USD shipped.

It should be here in about a week. I'll post my impressions etc then..

Xringer,

Using the case & as much of the existing control electronics sounds like a great idea to me.

You have a point there about the controller being oriented to achieving a particular level of coldness...

If you could modify the thermistor thingie so that your A/C thought that it was always an under-achiever, AND if your A/C has the ability to cycle ON when its plug is connected to power, you could just use the thermostat that is built into your water heater, if you decide to go with a water heater...

Last time I looked at an electric DWH, it had two thermostats, one high, and one low on the tank. You could leave one of them for a backup, and use the other for power to your A/C (NOT 220v!!).

-AC_Hacker

Xringer · 02-17-12, 01:24 PM

It's pretty easy to hack a thermistor sensor using a potentiometer.
I was thinking of hacking (or just setting it) to cool the basement down to about 50F.
(And of course dehumidifying it at the same time).
That way, it wouldn't be running when it was not going to be very effective..

The main AC Off-On could be done using an SSR connected to a temperature sensor
in the storage tank or maybe I could use my old Solar DHW differential controller.
I guess there are a lot of ways to get that job done..

I think the hard part will be replacing the condenser coil with the HX,
and getting it to produce some hot water..

02-12-12, 08:02 AM	#12
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	One is a Fedders a6x05f2a 5000 btuh and the other is a GoldStar/LG WG5200R @ 5250 btuh, and it uses R22. Can't find the right label on the Fedders. It's older, I assume it's also R22. These are the smallest units that I have in stock. My only other donator is the old 18,000 BTU in/wall unit. WG5200R?? http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...1806-00002.png I wonder what a Sync Motor is?? __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

02-12-12, 02:44 PM	#16
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Yeah, probably not in this unit. And no medium speed either. Not important. Maybe I should just start off just keeping it simple and use the other little AC for another project someday. It would be a lot cheaper on the line set cost. Since I could just replace the condenser coil with a 'cheap' R22-to-Water HX... Maybe keep it all in the same box.. With a couple of water connections on the case. I wonder if it would be possible to use the exiting electronics & remote control..?. May have to trick the thermistor into thinking the basement is warmer, than it really is.. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

02-12-12, 05:10 PM	#17
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Got a reply back on my question to the HX seller about the size of the water ports. Hello, all 4 of the holes are Braze connections, 2 are for water and 2 for refrigerant. The outer shoulder of these are .392 inches for the small port, and .550 inches for the 3 larger ports If the OD of the ports is 0.55", then the ID must be pretty close to 1/2".. Close enough to have a pretty good flow rate.. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

02-17-12, 09:47 AM	#18
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	I was the only bidder and 'won' one of these little Alfa Laval AC10-16 units for $39.69 USD shipped. It should be here in about a week. I'll post my impressions etc then.. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

02-17-12, 01:24 PM	#20
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	It's pretty easy to hack a thermistor sensor using a potentiometer. I was thinking of hacking (or just setting it) to cool the basement down to about 50F. (And of course dehumidifying it at the same time). That way, it wouldn't be running when it was not going to be very effective.. The main AC Off-On could be done using an SSR connected to a temperature sensor in the storage tank or maybe I could use my old Solar DHW differential controller. I guess there are a lot of ways to get that job done.. I think the hard part will be replacing the condenser coil with the HX, and getting it to produce some hot water.. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

02-12-12, 10:05 AM	#13
mrd Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Milford, DE Posts: 106 Thanks: 5 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts	Maybe its referring to a synchronous motor instead of an induction motor.. Why is it composed of dashed lines instead of solid?

02-12-12, 10:16 AM	#14
MN Renovator Less usage=Cheaper bills Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 939 Thanks: 41 Thanked 116 Times in 90 Posts	Not sure what I'm looking at but the motor isn't the only thing showing sync. There is the switch and display showing multiple references to sync.

02-12-12, 10:23 AM	#15
mrd Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Milford, DE Posts: 106 Thanks: 5 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts	It looks like the labels CN-xx are connectors on the board, and RY-xx are relays mounted on the board. Perhaps the dashed outline relays are only present in some configurations?