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Old 02-10-15, 03:58 PM   #21
ecomodded
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Best Method
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The thermal grout in conjunction with materials that are at least as thermally conductive as the thermal grout is going to give you the best possible absorbing and radiation properties.

that means no plastic or anything with a lower thermal number then the thermal grout can be used anywhere in the system but supply lines, as it would be the limiting factor.

Rather then plastic or poly sealed copper or stainless steel is the solution , if you can justify buying it.

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Old 02-15-15, 11:24 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Mikesolar View Post
Interesting. I assume the copper tube will not be in direct contact with the cement. I couldn't tell exactly from your post if it was. I don't know how many feet of tubing there will be but you may not get the 3GPH (H not M?) from a pump that is designed for a lower head loss. Something to check.

Ii thought more on your concern with pump strength and decided to use less line to lighting the work load, instead of 70ft of poly I am going to use 20 ft. of 1/4" primmer covered copper tubing.


The chiller will be raised up to the tanks water level to use the siphoning effect instead of pushing all the water , the pump will use its vacuum to raise the water 10 inches to start the siphon off.

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Turns out the refrigerant coil was soldered together in a few places , which is why I could not unravel it.

I cut the stainless chiller bucket apart and was then able to pull the coil free and remove the bucket.

I am going to add a $14 eBay panel mount kWh / watt meter so I can keep tabs on its economy.

That's about it , I will start a separate thread with photos of its construction and test data.
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Old 02-15-15, 01:21 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ecomodded View Post
Ii thought more on your concern with pump strength and decided to use less line to lighting the work load, instead of 70ft of poly I am going to use 20 ft. of 1/4" primmer covered copper tubing...
It might be useful for you to investigate the physics of fluid flow.

You will learn much.

-AC
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Old 02-15-15, 11:23 PM   #24
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If you have a U-shaped tube full of water with both ends in a pool, and you lift the center of the tube up to roof height, you can pump water through that tube without regard to how high the top is.

The only resistance will be the resistance of water flowing through the tube The height will not matter
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I will prime the line with water and have gravity pull it threw , my pump will only need to lift the water in height so the water can flow downhill back into the tank.


Click image for larger version

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Only my pump will raise the water higher then the picture shows and the water will flow back to a lower point which will be the tank. It will start from the pumps height not the tanks water level height.
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Old 02-15-15, 11:38 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by AC_Hacker View Post
It might be useful for you to investigate the physics of fluid flow.

You will learn much.

-AC
I think a siphon is a easy concept what could possible be the issue with it ?
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Old 02-16-15, 12:09 AM   #26
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I have here a pdf file that cancels out the effect of using different tubing materials.
But it leaves out the time it takes for everything to get to temperature and even out.

Thermal conductivity of common tubing materials.pdf


Makes me think in my system the copper will indeed work better because the water will only pass threw it for a short few minutes duration.

I am sticking with copper.. for speed.
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Old 02-16-15, 11:30 AM   #27
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Could it be Ac needs to investigate the physics of fluid flow and not me
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Old 02-17-15, 12:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecomodded View Post
Could it be Ac needs to investigate the physics of fluid flow and not me
If this project was about anything more than a tank of fish, it could be worth a real analysis.

Good luck to your fish.

-AC
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Old 02-17-15, 02:04 PM   #29
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(* please remove duplicate post *)
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Old 02-17-15, 05:39 PM   #30
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Default Why???

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecomodded View Post
Ii thought more on your concern with pump strength and decided to use less line to lighting the work load, instead of 70ft of poly I am going to use 20 ft. of 1/4" primmer covered copper tubing.


The chiller will be raised up to the tanks water level to use the siphoning effect instead of pushing all the water , the pump will use its vacuum to raise the water 10 inches to start the siphon off.

`````````````````````````````````````````````````` `````````````````````````````````````````````````` ````````````````````

Turns out the refrigerant coil was soldered together in a few places , which is why I could not unravel it.

I cut the stainless chiller bucket apart and was then able to pull the coil free and remove the bucket.

I am going to add a $14 eBay panel mount kWh / watt meter so I can keep tabs on its economy.

That's about it , I will start a separate thread with photos of its construction and test data.
My question here is why didn't you just use the stainless chiller bucket for a water cooler? You have constructed a rube goldberg machine here. Multiple fluid level sensors, a refrigerant-to grout-to water heat exchanger, an elaborate pumping system, etc. What was wrong with the original container? It was obviously designed to efficiently chill water. Just wondering.

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