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Old 11-08-10, 09:56 AM   #21
Daox
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I ended up picking up some smaller diameter 3" screws. They worked fine when I tested them. I did drill one of the two pieces. It still split the second piece and I didn't want have to drill them all as I went along.

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Old 11-08-10, 11:00 AM   #22
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I have been slowly making these for my windows as time permits. The first ones I covered were large, fixed, single pane windows. I used less substantial material for the frame -- 3/4 in -- and simply screwed them into the inside of the frame. Like you, I used the hardware store window film. I am pleased with how those have worked out and leave them in place year round. The only maintenance I have done is use packing tape where an over eager dog stuck a paw through the plastic.

I made another about a month ago to cover the bathroom window. This time I used an aluminum screen window frame, again a little too dinky since it tends to bow in the middle. The 1x2 is definitely the way to go since it will give the necessary rigidity. If you are worried about tears, you can opt for the stronger clear mylar.
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Old 11-08-10, 03:22 PM   #23
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Another good project, Tim.
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Old 11-08-10, 08:19 PM   #24
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Thanks Darin.

I got the rest of the boards sanded down tonight. Next on the list would be staining them which I'll probably do tomorrow.
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Old 11-12-10, 06:16 AM   #25
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I did a bunch of staining last night. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to do the other side of the frame pieces. So, I'll finish that up later. I did one side of all of the long frame pieces. I then ran out of saw horse room. The can says the stain is supposed to dry for 3 hours so I cleaned it up before I went to sleep.

Laying out the boards.




Staining.




Most boards done. That little can of stain goes quite the distance. I only used about 1/4 to 1/8th of the can for this. Initially I was worried about running out.
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Old 11-12-10, 10:17 PM   #26
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Well, it took four hours straight of staining tonight, but I got them all done...






I am going to sleep now!
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Old 11-15-10, 10:08 AM   #27
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Sunday I was able to take what I had done so far and put the frames together. Overall, the assembly went quite well. My first frame was a little twisted, but the others went together very nicely and are pretty straight.


I quickly found out that a countersink was needed for the screws after cracking the first frame piece. So, I added countersinks to all of the boards. I still had a small problem with cracking after that, but not bad at all.




The assembly procedure was quite simple. Clamp the pieces in the vise, insert screws, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat... You get the idea. I did put scrap pieces under the other ends of the boards to keep them level with the vise which didn't sit flush on the floor. I think this is where I had the problem with my first piece being a little twisted.




In the end this is what I had.
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Old 11-15-10, 10:20 AM   #28
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Nice update.

In my limited experience with a power driver, they're much more likely to crack the wood compared to doing (or finishing) the screws by hand.
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Old 11-15-10, 10:38 AM   #29
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The cracking wasn't bad at all. I think I cracked 3 of them? I just backed the screws off and it was fine.
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Old 11-18-10, 08:23 AM   #30
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I got my rolls of open cell foam from foamtapes.net the other day. WOW there is a lot of foam haha. Here is the box. It contains 12 of these 70 foot rolls! This was $5 more than buying eleven 17 foot rolls that would be just enough to do the 13 windows. Now I have extra. So, if anyone is interested, we can work out a deal as I definitely won't be using all of this (roughly 200 of 840 feet). But, if this works out I'll likely be making more frames for other windows in the house.


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Last edited by Daox; 11-18-10 at 09:16 AM..
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