12-09-21, 01:21 AM | #1 |
Lurking Renovator
Join Date: Dec 2021
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.delete please
.delete this thread
Last edited by Bobinater33; 12-19-21 at 02:26 PM.. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Bobinater33 For This Useful Post: | jeff5may (12-16-21) |
12-09-21, 01:50 AM | #2 |
Lurking Renovator
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Buckeye,Az
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As for details on the build… well. I must admit that it makes no sense to do it the way I did. I’ve essentially reversed the advancements In HVAC technology back to the 90’s by doing away with the inverter board, EEV, BLDC fan motor and all the proprietary control mechanisms.
What I brewed up is as follows… Inkbird 1000 PID temperature controller > Inkbird Heating output: First 30A double pole contactor (120v coil) > 120v attic fan (condenser fan) Inkbird Cooling output:^ Same as above ^ with an addition jumper to complete the 220v circuit of a 4 way reversing valve. (Future) Both outputs: Second Contactor (same specs) to close a normally open 24vdc control circuit , initializing the run/forward command of a Teco 3hp L510 Variable frequency drive with its outputs connected to the UVW terminals of the compressor. The compressor is rated for flammable refrigerants, I’ve decided to move all electrical components to externally mounted enclosures (Nema 40 boxes), all wire connections are made with approved lever clamp connectors. A small (always on) totally enclosed DC fan is circulating fresh air through the compressor compartment. All I’m missing is a flammable gas sensor that will activate a pump down mechanism in the event of a leak. I followed the Lennox refrigerant piping handbook to the best of my ability. The liquid HX was made from 1/2” type L copper pipe inside 3/4” type L copper pipe. A total of six passes measuring 30” each. (I’m worried the pressure drop will be harmful and wish I went with 1” and 3/4” copper at a minimum) A V46 Head pressure actuated water flow valve can be seen at the water inlet of my liquid HX condensor. They shipped the wrong size TXV (4 ton r22) but I have a 2 ton r22 on its way. I figured i would try to meet that ovesized Txv in the middle by adjusting the superheat way down. The hang that little inverter rotary comp way outside of its spec with over speed , pump water through the HX at full blast and bring in my 14” 1200cfm monster inline fan to move air across the coil. It will be charged with Propane. |
12-09-21, 10:52 AM | #4 |
Lurking Renovator
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Dang… no love
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12-09-21, 08:21 PM | #5 |
Journeyman EcoRenovator
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I can’t wait to see how it performs.. also would be interested in knowing more about you vfd and how it works with the compressor. Those mini splits would be awesome units to hack
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12-10-21, 03:28 AM | #6 | |
Lurking Renovator
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Quote:
Should be up in the next couple days and I’ll post my metrics. In the mean time is there a trick to having my pictures appear larger and not sideways ? I’ve fiddled with it a bit and just can’t figure it out! |
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12-16-21, 07:44 AM | #7 |
Supreme EcoRenovator
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I'd just leave the txv superheat alone. You don't want to feed your compressor foaming fizz. With less than about 6 or 8 degrees superheat, that's what will happen unless you have a suction line accumulator.
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12-17-21, 01:55 AM | #8 |
Lurking Renovator
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I do have one on hand actually , but I believe these rotary compressors have one built onto them from the factory. I don’t think I’ll mess with the txv as per your guidance. Getting the ports on the compressor hot enough to make solder stick to them has proven quite difficult. It is the only thing holding me back currently . Might have to upgrade to an oxy-acetelyne torch.
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12-17-21, 02:00 AM | #9 | |
Lurking Renovator
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Quote:
It never tripped the breaker but it did break 5 lightbulbs in random places throughout my house. I don’t like that. |
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