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Old 12-09-11, 04:36 AM   #21
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Old 12-09-11, 04:36 AM   #22
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I found that by the EPA: Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction | Radon | US EPA

And this document have the recommendation by Health Canada:
www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/odpub/pdf/61945.pdf
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Old 12-09-11, 08:27 AM   #23
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Right now, the radon appears to be very "localized", to a single sump hole.
And, I do use a Dehumidifier down there during the summer.


Yeah, maybe I should go ahead and install a new
"FanTech 4" Radon Mitigation Fan" in some 4" duct work (PVC pipe?),
but install the fan indoors, about 4 feet above the sump.

I can always work on the other health hazards next year..

That might be a good way to go. I'll just have to install a check valve
in the 1.25" sump (water) pipe, to keep air from going backwards
and flowing out the bottom(water intake) of the sump pump..
And get a air good seal around the top of the hole.
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Old 12-09-11, 08:46 AM   #24
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JYL said what I was about to say when I was reading this thread and I'm pretty sure I said earlier. You never want to ventilate a basement because in the summer the dew point which will be much higher than every surface in your basement from the walls and mechanical equipment which will be a quick way to introduce serious mold issues and rust out your mechanical equipment. In the winter you'll dehumidify the basement ...along with the whole house if you use enough air to deal with the radon problem but that could also cause issues if the HRV manages to malfunction even slightly and have unbalanced (negative) pressure on the house causing suction on the sumps and an increase of your problem.
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Old 12-09-11, 07:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JYL View Post
I found that by the EPA: Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction | Radon | US EPA

And this document have the recommendation by Health Canada:
www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/odpub/pdf/61945.pdf
I had not seen that Canadian pdf before.. Nice and clear info!

Thanks!
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Old 12-09-11, 07:58 PM   #26
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Default The HP190 really sucks!

How about the HP190? Radon Mitigation



Looks like something that you might find in a strange bathroom..?.


"1. Suitable for use with solid-state speed control."!!

Need some adapters too..


I'm thinking that 3" PVC would be a lot easier to install, so the 4" to 3" couplers might be good..

This kit (Pipeconx PCX56-43) is listed as compatible.. Radon Fan Install Kit - 4" x 3" - White | eBay


Fan test results:
http://www.wpb-radon.com/radon_fan_p...nce.html#HP190


Comments please..
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Old 12-09-11, 08:01 PM   #27
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Just get anything like that with some PVC, some silicone and some PVC cement. You'll also need a hole saw the size of the pipe and some way to drill the slab. I don't know how the pro's do it but they cut a perfectly sized hole in the concrete.

Why do you think 3" pipe is easier to work with? Personally I see little difference aside from the 4" being (probably) more effective.

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Old 12-09-11, 08:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN Renovator View Post
JYL said what I was about to say when I was reading this thread and I'm pretty sure I said earlier. You never want to ventilate a basement because in the summer the dew point which will be much higher than every surface in your basement from the walls and mechanical equipment which will be a quick way to introduce serious mold issues and rust out your mechanical equipment. In the winter you'll dehumidify the basement ...along with the whole house if you use enough air to deal with the radon problem but that could also cause issues if the HRV manages to malfunction even slightly and have unbalanced (negative) pressure on the house causing suction on the sumps and an increase of your problem.
I have another radon detector in the mail, so I should be able to find out if,
it's mostly a one hole problem or not.
If it is, I've about decided not to waste a lot of time on this..
Since this nice weather isn't going to be here much longer!
So, the HRV will have to wait. I think upstairs would be the better site for it anyways.

Roughly, Plan A: Use a HP190 blower and run 3" PVC up to the ceiling,
and run it 24' (between the Floor Joists) to the back of the basement.
The pipe will exit right behind Sanyo#2 and go up a couple feet above the gutter.

Adding some videos!
http://youtu.be/A6DYg6hR1jE
http://youtu.be/WDfkAFQi584
http://youtu.be/e-BpaTp6sCo
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Last edited by Xringer; 12-09-11 at 09:11 PM.. Reason: I love videos!
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Old 12-09-11, 10:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S-F View Post
Just get anything like that with some PVC, some silicone and some PVC cement. You'll also need a hole saw the size of the pipe and some way to drill the slab. I don't know how the pro's do it but they cut a perfectly sized hole in the concrete.

Why do you think 3" pipe is easier to work with? Personally I see little difference aside from the 4" being (probably) more effective.

I already have the hole.. I'm going to use a sump cover and seal it down.

Maybe I'm wrong, but when I looked at that chart, and pictured trying to
pump air out of the hard packed dirt and rock under my slab,
I figured maybe 5 or 10 cfm..?. If my cover plate is good & tight.
Can't see why anything larger than 1" is even necessary.?.
Seems like the volume of air going outside is going to be very low..(& slow moving).

Fantech says it's okay to use 3", and I have at least one tight spot
(floor joist x-bracing) where I'm pretty sure that a 4" pipe will not fit.
There is one X-brace like this,
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/r...DSC_1138-1.jpg
in the channel where I want to run the 25' pipe.
Maybe a 3" will fit under the 'X', but I'm sure a 4" won't..
I think the space between the bottom (center) of the 'X' and the ceiling tile
strapping is about 3.5".. (I hope).
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Old 12-09-11, 11:35 PM   #30
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You're not trying to pump any air out. You are trying to create negative pressure under the slab. 5 cfm shouldn't happen. There's no way to pump air out of solid earth. It should be like sticking a vacuum to your hand or something like that.

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