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Old 04-03-12, 12:53 PM   #1
stuart1648
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Default inexpensive diy mini-split install

hi,just joined;dont have much $;just bought small fannie mae foreclosure fixer-upper in w washington;will try el cheapo minisplit install
wish me luck
will update

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Old 04-03-12, 01:31 PM   #2
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How large is the home? Have you purchased the mini-split yet?
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Old 04-03-12, 02:15 PM   #3
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Default inexpensive diy mini-split install

house/cottage is about 500 sq ft but can close off 50;built 1930
I just bought a still- in- box klimaire 9000 inverter off craigslist;his plans changed so only $400.
Its w washington,mile from Columbia river, so pretty mild albeit rainy climate
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Old 04-03-12, 08:45 PM   #4
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Sounds like a good price.. Have you been reading up on the installs posted here?
Might take a few hours, but may save you a lot more in the long run..
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Old 04-03-12, 09:21 PM   #5
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Default el cheapo

yes;Ive read just about all of yours; very good.
One thing Im going to try which I think was missing: Will use heat source.probably hair dryer/blow dryer , to warm up copper lines toward end of vacuum.I suspect you and Larry David and I arent too experienced using such appliances...lol
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Old 04-03-12, 11:14 PM   #6
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Hey!! I use a heat gun all the time at work. (Wiring stuff).

Not sure how much good heating the lineset will do you.
Much of the air you're going to pump out, is sitting inside the indoor unit coil.
Nice and warm inside the house.

I like to vac linesets on a nice warm day.. 45F or above.
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Old 04-03-12, 11:54 PM   #7
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Default el cheapo

Now that you mention it I might even try the hair dryer at the inside coils through the outlet;I cant imagine itd do any harm since those coils are made to run hot.
I liked your idea re using some 410a as a poor mans nitrogen pressure test.I realize nitrogen would be better for several reasons but remember this is a lowball operation all the way.
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Old 04-04-12, 06:54 AM   #8
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Yeah, if it will hold a hard vacuum, it will probably hold pressure too.

IMHO, it's good to pressure test, even if you have great vacuum,
since a 'flare' surface will pull down tighter with vac inside.
While pressure will try to lift the flare open.
Pressure will show the finger-tight connector.

The only problem I can see with nitrogen pressure testing is over-doing it.
Bursting something or forcing nitrogen into the system via the service a valve.

My older system has a little leakiness in one of the valves. After it had set
for a while with a new charge, there was pressure under the valve access cap.
A little puff of gas came out when I removed the cap (to turn the valve).
To me, that was a sign to use lower pressure on the nitrogen test.
And, to insure those caps were replaced tightly.
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Old 04-08-12, 10:37 PM   #9
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Almost everything Ive read,both here and on other boards, is very laudatory about blue nylog as a sealant against leaks. Any comments?
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Old 04-08-12, 10:51 PM   #10
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I've used it and it seems like good stuff.
When applying it to a flare, I recommend putting some on both the inside and outside of the flare.
Anywhere two metal parts are going to rub each other.
I think the lube effect will allow the flare to shape itself
around the flare cone, without binding or galling on the brass.

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