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Old 10-29-15, 01:18 PM   #91
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I also like the power gauges, where did you get them?

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Old 10-29-15, 02:29 PM   #92
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ebay

direct from shyngyang, 'free shipping" too in most cases
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Old 10-29-15, 02:29 PM   #93
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Or, if you want them less than 1/2 price, go to alibaba and buy 1000.
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Old 10-29-15, 05:07 PM   #94
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100A AC Digital LED Power Meter Monitor Voltage kWh Time Watt Voltmeter Ammeter | eBay
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Old 11-18-15, 08:47 AM   #95
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Doax, or a Mod can you change the title to 11,000 BTU? Because that is what it is now.

I only had one cold night, it got down to 31F the unit only used 2.5 kwh.
I am thinking I might slightly be over charged, still waiting for more cold weather.
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Old 11-18-15, 09:41 AM   #96
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Done, and well done!
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Old 11-22-15, 08:01 AM   #97
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Temp got down to 25F last night, I woke up and the greenhouse was 50F!! Apparently my compressor was either working to hard or had no oil because it died. Totally locked up. I waited for it to cool down and tried again with no luck, it load to 40+ amps and blows a fuse.
So I am going to throw a spare 8,000 btu on just for tonight. I really wonder if the oil separator was working right? I am going to add more oil to the system and see what happens.
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Old 11-22-15, 11:08 AM   #98
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Congratulations! You killed one. Now you have something to hang on your wall.

Don't rule out cap tube sizing yet. If you cut off too much cap tube, it could have overfed your evaporator. You may have too much oil in the system also. When the temperature drops in the greenhouse, your head pressure will follow. This narrows your dP across the compressor, allowing it to pump way more gas than usual. If there is too much oil in the system, it will act the same way as if it were overcharged: the extra oil will run right through the system after the accumulator (oil separator) is full.

Liquid anything is bad for the compressor, worse than starvation. Liquid in the compression chamber tends to break things violently. It breaks pistons, rods, and valves. It bends crankshafts and shaves bearings. OTOH, starvation tends to burn up motor windings. Since you have no data to consider the root cause of the failure, it may be a good idea to do an autopsy on the pot after it is removed. It could save the next one's life.

Now would be the perfect time to install control and monitoring hardware. If you aren't trying to babysit this rig, I highly recommend adding a handful of temperature sensors and some sort of data logger. Now would be a good time to install some fail-safe devices as well. High and low pressure limit switches are in all but the cheapest (window or mini-split) units sized over a ton of capacity. Even the cheapest ones have a high-temperature cutout on the compressor.
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Old 11-22-15, 11:36 AM   #99
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Gonna take a big nail to put this one on the wall. lol

I know that the compressor was getting liquid for maybe 8-10 start ups, but then I added a super sized 3 ton accumulator to it. So unless the damage was already done or it was just really old, it was from a lack of oil.
I didn't add any to the compressor when I put it on, I was assuming it still had plenty in it, BUT I did not know the history of this compressor before I got it other than that all the R22 was gone out when I found it.

Where should I cut into the pot to be able to see what I need to see?

I did babysit this thing for hours even when it got down to 31F and everything looked great other than being slightly over charged. I do have temp senors but no data logger, how would knowing the temps help determine the cause of death? It does have a high temp shut off as you said.
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Old 11-22-15, 01:22 PM   #100
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best place to cut is where the shell was welded at the factory. Most smaller pots can be dismantled without having to chop much else apart, if anything.

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