Sanyo 24KHS72 AC/HP DIY install project - Page 6

Xringer · 10-20-09, 02:26 PM

I see what you mean.. Well, it was a good try anyways.
The 800 number didn't work, since they don't have any stock right now
and I think they use crescent wrenches anyways!

Do you have any calipers? That service port cap might tell the tale if it's exactly 14 mm..

I know that I've used a mixed bag of metric and SAE for years,
and many times going by 'fit' when I needed to.

I'll bet if I ordered both Crowsfeet kits, I would have the right size
and very likely could find one that was very close in the other kit.
Meaning, I could use two flare wrenches on those upper connection. Maybe!

I'll find some cheap stuff, since I'm getting too old to buy tools that
are made to last more than 20 years..

Thanks,
Rich

AC_Hacker · 10-20-09, 03:54 PM

Here's the service cap measurement, done very carefully. Inches on top, mm on bottom.

Regards,

-AC_Hacker

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Xringer · 10-20-09, 04:47 PM

I could be wrong, but that looks like it's going to need a 17 mm wrench..

Thanks for taking the time to help out an old man..

Cheers,
Rich

Xringer · 10-23-09, 08:58 AM

At long last! The Sanyo shipped yesterday and should be here on Monday!!
(243 pounds of it)!

I'm going to try a micro Bell Jar test today.

I plan to use these fittings to test the vacuum pump, by placing a drop of water inside
the dead-end cap, vacuum it and see if the water turns into vapor (disappears).

~~~~

The 3 quarts of vac pump oil was just delivered!

~~~~

Added some oil to the vac pump and just did the test (twice). I could tell something
was going on inside the micro bell jar, because the temperature quickly dropped.

I shut off the valve on the pump, turned off the power and let the vacuum coast.
After only 15-20 seconds, I could see the pressure coming back up on the compound gauge.
I reapplied vacuum about 3 times (pump on for 30-40 seconds), between coasting.
In the end, the was no temperature drop felt, and no drop in vac pressure.
I shut down, opened the 'bell-jar' and it was bone dry!
I think this Pump is working!!

~~~~
Edit:
After looking at this, http://www.thermalengineeringcompany...appliances.pdf

And reading the fine print.. Water boils at 70 degs when the pressure is down at a mere 20,000 Microns..
So, if I want to be sure that I'm in the target range of my vacuum pump (50 microns),
I'm going to need to find a good vacuum meter.

NiHaoMike · 10-23-09, 09:29 AM

Quote:

If you decide to do this with a Schrader valve, the valve core is identical to a car tire valve, and has rubber seals. Make sure to remove the valve core before you solder or braze and do not re-install it until everything is cool to the touch.

I had a friend of mine who had a problem with her A/C. It was leaking refrigerant, but fluorescent leak tracer was not able to find it. She finally got an electronic leak detector and found significant leakage at the service nipples. Turns out the plumber forgot to remove the valve cores before welding the pipes, damaging the seals. Replace the valve cores and it's fixed.

BTW, there is a special tool that can be used to replace valve cores without releasing the pressure. It is also very useful for pulling a vacuum faster.

Xringer · 10-25-09, 06:57 PM

Hello AC_Hacker,

When you picked up your Sanyo, did you lay the outdoor unit on it's side for transport?

There's room inside my SUV for it to stand upright, but if it was to fall over!

It would be much easier to just lay it down in the cargo area of my ride.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...pe/medFord.jpg

I should be picking up my 2 tons of Sanyo tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks,
Rich

AC_Hacker · 10-26-09, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer

When you picked up your Sanyo, did you lay the outdoor unit on it's side for transport?

I transported the whole thing, in one trip in my tiny Honda Insight. The insidde unit was in the passenger's seat. So, I must have set the compressor unit on its side.

I think (guessing here...) that it's advisable to let a couple of hours pass after the unit has been turned to the upright position, before you power it up. I have heard this before... I don't know if this is refrigeration folk lore, or if it is really specified practice. It seems reasonable to me, as I would think that it would allow time for the refrigerant and lubricant to settle into their proper places. For me, the unit was in the upright position for couple of weeks, due to other demands.

Best Regards,

-AC_Hacker

%%%%%%%%%%%%

Xringer · 10-26-09, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AC_Hacker

I transported the whole thing, in one trip in my tiny Honda Insight. The inside unit was in the passenger's seat. So, I must have set the compressor unit on its side.

I think (guessing here...) that it's advisable to let a couple of hours pass after the unit has been turned to the upright position, before you power it up. I have heard this before... I don't know if this is refrigeration folk lore, or if it is really specified practice. It seems reasonable to me, as I would think that it would allow time for the refrigerant and lubricant to settle into their proper places. For me, the unit was in the upright position for couple of weeks, due to other demands.

Best Regards,

-AC_Hacker

%%%%%%%%%%%%

I'm getting deja vu of bringing home my the 42" Plasma TV from Sears..

My permit should come in the mail this week sometimes, so I'm not
looking to hookup the power for a while.

Besides, it's going to take a few days to get my new FieldPiece SVG2 vacuum gauge.. (US Postal Service - Priority Mail).

My mission for today is to get it home without doing much damage to my old back..

Thanks for the info!

Edit: I'm going to bring the camera, in cause of shipping damage, so I should have some
pics to post this evening.

Found a store 2 miles from my house that sells all sorts of HVAC stuff (no Micron vac gauges)
and they have SlimDuct stuff in stock..
Airtec Products - Lineset Protection
It really looks like nice stuff..

I wonder how well that setup drains with a sideways water hose?

AC_Hacker · 10-26-09, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer

I wonder how well that setup drains with a sideways water hose?

Gravity wins every time.

BTW, here's a link to an Australian web site that rates various appliances. Apparently, what we call 'heat pumps' they call air conditioners. It looks like they use the term 'reverse cycle' air conditioner to specify what we call heat pumps.

Energy Labelling - Energy Rating Home Page

No, they don't have Sanyo in there. It might be marketed in Austrlia under a different name. I wasn't able to find out the name.

Good luck with your set up. This discussion should be valuable to others who want to also DIY a mini split install.

Regards,

-AC_Hacker

%%%%%%%

Xringer · 10-26-09, 08:36 PM

I think they must be using the 9,000 BTU pics on their website, because this thing is BIG!

It takes two men and a boy to move this thing!

My wife thinks the indoor unit is way too big..

The kit looks pretty good.. The drain hose adapter seems odd. Found it taped inside.

Why isn't there a mesh screen back here to keep the leaves off the coil??

I'm so glad that I didn't buy any wrenches for this thing!
The smaller nuts are in the 12 mm range and the larger ones are 17 to 28 mm..
This is starting to look like a crescent wrench job.. Luckily, I have a kit of
the larger sized metric crescent wrenches..

10-20-09, 03:54 PM	#52
AC_Hacker Supreme EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 4,004 Thanks: 303 Thanked 723 Times in 534 Posts	Service Cap Measurement Here's the service cap measurement, done very carefully. Inches on top, mm on bottom. Regards, -AC_Hacker %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Attached Thumbnails

10-23-09, 08:58 AM	#54
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	At long last! The Sanyo shipped yesterday and should be here on Monday!! (243 pounds of it)! I'm going to try a micro Bell Jar test today. I plan to use these fittings to test the vacuum pump, by placing a drop of water inside the dead-end cap, vacuum it and see if the water turns into vapor (disappears). ~~~~ The 3 quarts of vac pump oil was just delivered! ~~~~ Added some oil to the vac pump and just did the test (twice). I could tell something was going on inside the micro bell jar, because the temperature quickly dropped. I shut off the valve on the pump, turned off the power and let the vacuum coast. After only 15-20 seconds, I could see the pressure coming back up on the compound gauge. I reapplied vacuum about 3 times (pump on for 30-40 seconds), between coasting. In the end, the was no temperature drop felt, and no drop in vac pressure. I shut down, opened the 'bell-jar' and it was bone dry! I think this Pump is working!! ~~~~ Edit: After looking at this, http://www.thermalengineeringcompany...appliances.pdf And reading the fine print.. Water boils at 70 degs when the pressure is down at a mere 20,000 Microns.. So, if I want to be sure that I'm in the target range of my vacuum pump (50 microns), I'm going to need to find a good vacuum meter. Last edited by Xringer; 10-23-09 at 04:19 PM.. Reason: test results

10-20-09, 02:26 PM	#51
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	I see what you mean.. Well, it was a good try anyways. The 800 number didn't work, since they don't have any stock right now and I think they use crescent wrenches anyways! Do you have any calipers? That service port cap might tell the tale if it's exactly 14 mm.. I know that I've used a mixed bag of metric and SAE for years, and many times going by 'fit' when I needed to. I'll bet if I ordered both Crowsfeet kits, I would have the right size and very likely could find one that was very close in the other kit. Meaning, I could use two flare wrenches on those upper connection. Maybe! I'll find some cheap stuff, since I'm getting too old to buy tools that are made to last more than 20 years.. Thanks, Rich

10-20-09, 04:47 PM	#53
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	I could be wrong, but that looks like it's going to need a 17 mm wrench.. Thanks for taking the time to help out an old man.. Cheers, Rich

10-25-09, 06:57 PM	#56
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Hello AC_Hacker, When you picked up your Sanyo, did you lay the outdoor unit on it's side for transport? There's room inside my SUV for it to stand upright, but if it was to fall over! It would be much easier to just lay it down in the cargo area of my ride. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...pe/medFord.jpg I should be picking up my 2 tons of Sanyo tomorrow afternoon. Thanks, Rich

10-26-09, 08:36 PM	#60
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	I think they must be using the 9,000 BTU pics on their website, because this thing is BIG! It takes two men and a boy to move this thing! My wife thinks the indoor unit is way too big.. The kit looks pretty good.. The drain hose adapter seems odd. Found it taped inside. Why isn't there a mesh screen back here to keep the leaves off the coil?? I'm so glad that I didn't buy any wrenches for this thing! The smaller nuts are in the 12 mm range and the larger ones are 17 to 28 mm.. This is starting to look like a crescent wrench job.. Luckily, I have a kit of the larger sized metric crescent wrenches..