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Old 01-18-20, 12:43 PM   #11
Daox
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Well, this project is becoming a bit more work than first hoped. I reassembled the carb and reinstalled it on the engine. Then I gave it a few pulls and this...





So, I got some rope and fixed the recoil. That was also a pain because the recoil spring came loose and went flying across the room. Youtube to the rescue to show how to easily wind that thing back up.

Anyway, I reinstalled the recoil and gave it a few tugs. No results. A little starting fluid started it right up, and then it died again... So, the carb is back off and soaking again. If this next attempt doesn't work I'll probably order a new carb. It just really seems like a waste for not being able to clean a hole out.

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Old 01-18-20, 03:37 PM   #12
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Sunken cost fallacy. Same day prime shipping.
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Old 01-18-20, 06:50 PM   #13
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When you pull it out this next time, check the passages and high speed jet. I found using the fine wire from the inside of a twist tie (like you find on a loaf of bread) works well for poking through the varnish in the small passages.

Since I was dealing with a metal carb bowl layered with varnish this afternoon, I poured half a carb bowl of acetone in the bowl and sloshed it around for a few minutes. That dissolved the varnish quickly. I made sure not to get the acetone on any rubber parts including the tip of the float needle.
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Old 01-19-20, 12:55 PM   #14
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If you still can't get it to work, how about convert it to run on propane?
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Old 01-19-20, 01:17 PM   #15
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Daox, have you identified the main jet? I don't see any pictures of it, so I want to make sure you don't think it's an insignificant/unidentified part. For newer carbs, they don't use an adjustable jet like they used to, it's now a fixed jet and it's the "screw" holding the carb bowl in place and the central tube of the carb pulls fuel from the bottom of the bowl through an orifice inside that screw and up into the central tube of the carb. You should be able to use the straw on your can of carb cleaner and shoot through that hole.
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Old 01-19-20, 04:02 PM   #16
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I've identified it. I blew through it after the first soak which I figured would be enough. I did pick up a can of carb cleaner spray. I will be spraying through each orifice with that once its done soaking this second time.
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Old 01-27-20, 04:16 PM   #17
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Alright, after a week or so of soaking I finally took the time to slap it back on. Seems to run great! Hurray.

However, I was now able to test the snowblower aaaaand the wheels have no power to them. You pull the clutch handle and nada. I checked for an adjustment, but I wasn't able to find any. The cable does pull on that lower spring and puts tension on it, so the cable is doing its job. Perhaps there are some wear parts in the differential unit?

Here is a picture of the underside. The clutch cable comes down and attaches to the spring by the pulley.

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Old 01-27-20, 04:34 PM   #18
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Well... looks like youtube helped me find out what the issue likely is. Fast forward to 26:00 in and you'll see the worm gear completely ate up the brass spur gear. Not an easy fix since you can't just order the spur gear. Looks like a whole new transmission is in order if I want to get this thing working again. Looking online these transmissions are going for about $140.

To scrap, or to save? I'm leaning toward scrap at this point, perhaps part out?




Reference replacement transmission #s: 618-04296B 918-04296 618-04296 918-04296A
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Old 01-27-20, 04:53 PM   #19
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Bummer, maybe you can sell the motor.
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Old 01-27-20, 05:44 PM   #20
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That really sucks. If it's not a common model where you could find another non-working one and swap parts, I wouldn't spend $140 to fix an old snowblower.

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