Removing trim without damaging it

Daox · 10-10-11, 07:30 AM

I found that I have some windows that are leaking around the trim thanks to my energy audit this spring. My guess is that fiberglass was shoved between the window and framing. I'd like to pop the trim off, spray foam and put the trim back on. What is the best way to do this without damaging the trim? Thankfully the trim on my windows isn't mitered, its all square ends so I don't have to deal with that.

Ryland · 10-10-11, 08:08 AM

Get a trim pry bar, they are very thin, flat pry bars, often about 2" wide, or take an old classic flat pry bar and grind on it for a little while to give it's edge a long taper with almost a knife like edge (not to sharp! I've been cut by pry bars that were to sharp), then you can get the pry bar under the trim and work it off slowly, pull all nails out the back with a vise grip, pounding them back thru the face will only destroy the face of the trim.
It sounds like your trim is post and lentil style, if that is the case it should all come right off, if it's older trim with a fancy top piece that is made out of more then one piece of wood, where you have a thin strip of wood then a large plank of wood that makes up the header/lentil on top of the window then you have a case where that thin strip is nailed in to the trim going down the sides and nailed up from the window opening, this style of trim is tricky and often brakes or at least cracks.

herlichka · 10-10-11, 08:15 AM

The first step is to cut the paint or varnish where the casing meets the other surfaces, the wall and the window jamb. Carefully use a very sharp utility knife for this. Often, the finishes are strong enough to cause the wood casing to splinter if you don't cut them.
Next, using a very thin pry bar (or old butter knives) start to work the tip into the joint, gently prying the surfaces apart. It is often easier to use two bars, work your way from one end to the other, taking just a little bit at a time, opening the joint maybe a quarter inch. At this point look carefully at the nails, if they are conventional finishing nails gently tap the wood back towards the jamb, (not on the nail), this should expose the nail head enough to get a small set of pliers room to grab, then slowly pry the nail out. Use one of your pry bars between the pliers and the casing to avoid marking thewood as you pull the nail. If the casing was installed with thin brads, with an air nailer, it is likely easier to just pry the casing straight up,and let the brads pull through, and carefully remove them after.
I like to mark the back of the pieces as I remove them, especially if there is more than one window involved, and now is a good time to sand away the edges where the paint or varnish was cut, they can be dangerousely sharp.
When you foam the windows be sure to use "Low E" (low expansion) foam, it should say so on the label, but I know with some brands that you have to read the description on the label to make sure it is suitable for sealing windows.
Lastly, when you reinstall the casings you should be able to use new nails in the existing nail holes, but if you should have to nail it on with new nails in new spots be sure to "dull" the points of the nails by tapping them against a stone or steel object with your hammer, sharp nails split their way through the wood, but dull nails tear their way through the fibres, and the casing is less likely to split.

S-F · 10-10-11, 08:47 AM

I like to use a hive tool:

Google

They are pretty flat and work well for both removing trim and for removing siding for dense packing.

MN Renovator · 10-10-11, 09:38 AM

Ditto on the butter knife, slide it in close to where a nail is until you are at the handle and then the wood is supported and pull on the handle and other side of the knife. Some nails were a little tougher so I'd use the knife to get as much space as I could and then slipped in a crow bar or hammer.

strider3700 · 10-10-11, 11:26 AM

I caulk the trim when I put it back on so any minor damage from the tools can be filled at that time. The only major thing that could go wrong is snapping or splitting the trim during removal but that's unlikely if you're careful enough.

ThomSjay · 10-12-11, 10:08 PM

A former coworker told me not to worry about pulling the nails because that would be a lot of trouble, even damage. All he did was grind the hidden part off, and then used new nails.

herlichka · 10-13-11, 06:03 AM

Grinding may be a time efficient option in a whole house reno, in an unoccupied building, but those red hot sparks may be an issue with tinder dry window shims and dust in the jambs, and they can leave nasty rust spots on any surface that they melt their way into, and the grinding smoke clings to fabric and upholstery.
Please don't get me wrong, like I say, there is a time and place for the grinder, but for a window or two you may find that a bit of finesse with your ViceGrips may be much safer.

Daox · 10-13-11, 06:35 AM

I picked up a mini flat bar this week. Its still around 1/8" thick, but I think I'll grind down the end to make it thinner and more blade like. We'll see how it works... They didn't have any trim bars at the local shop.

10-10-11, 07:30 AM	#1
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Removing trim without damaging it I found that I have some windows that are leaking around the trim thanks to my energy audit this spring. My guess is that fiberglass was shoved between the window and framing. I'd like to pop the trim off, spray foam and put the trim back on. What is the best way to do this without damaging the trim? Thankfully the trim on my windows isn't mitered, its all square ends so I don't have to deal with that. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

10-12-11, 10:08 PM	#7
ThomSjay Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada Posts: 91 Thanks: 8 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	A former coworker told me not to worry about pulling the nails because that would be a lot of trouble, even damage. All he did was grind the hidden part off, and then used new nails. __________________ TomS

10-13-11, 06:35 AM	#9
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	I picked up a mini flat bar this week. Its still around 1/8" thick, but I think I'll grind down the end to make it thinner and more blade like. We'll see how it works... They didn't have any trim bars at the local shop. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

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10-10-11, 08:08 AM	#2
Ryland Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Western Wisconsin. Posts: 913 Thanks: 127 Thanked 82 Times in 71 Posts	Get a trim pry bar, they are very thin, flat pry bars, often about 2" wide, or take an old classic flat pry bar and grind on it for a little while to give it's edge a long taper with almost a knife like edge (not to sharp! I've been cut by pry bars that were to sharp), then you can get the pry bar under the trim and work it off slowly, pull all nails out the back with a vise grip, pounding them back thru the face will only destroy the face of the trim. It sounds like your trim is post and lentil style, if that is the case it should all come right off, if it's older trim with a fancy top piece that is made out of more then one piece of wood, where you have a thin strip of wood then a large plank of wood that makes up the header/lentil on top of the window then you have a case where that thin strip is nailed in to the trim going down the sides and nailed up from the window opening, this style of trim is tricky and often brakes or at least cracks.

10-10-11, 08:15 AM	#3
herlichka Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Simcoe County, Ontario, Canada Posts: 102 Thanks: 11 Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts	The first step is to cut the paint or varnish where the casing meets the other surfaces, the wall and the window jamb. Carefully use a very sharp utility knife for this. Often, the finishes are strong enough to cause the wood casing to splinter if you don't cut them. Next, using a very thin pry bar (or old butter knives) start to work the tip into the joint, gently prying the surfaces apart. It is often easier to use two bars, work your way from one end to the other, taking just a little bit at a time, opening the joint maybe a quarter inch. At this point look carefully at the nails, if they are conventional finishing nails gently tap the wood back towards the jamb, (not on the nail), this should expose the nail head enough to get a small set of pliers room to grab, then slowly pry the nail out. Use one of your pry bars between the pliers and the casing to avoid marking thewood as you pull the nail. If the casing was installed with thin brads, with an air nailer, it is likely easier to just pry the casing straight up,and let the brads pull through, and carefully remove them after. I like to mark the back of the pieces as I remove them, especially if there is more than one window involved, and now is a good time to sand away the edges where the paint or varnish was cut, they can be dangerousely sharp. When you foam the windows be sure to use "Low E" (low expansion) foam, it should say so on the label, but I know with some brands that you have to read the description on the label to make sure it is suitable for sealing windows. Lastly, when you reinstall the casings you should be able to use new nails in the existing nail holes, but if you should have to nail it on with new nails in new spots be sure to "dull" the points of the nails by tapping them against a stone or steel object with your hammer, sharp nails split their way through the wood, but dull nails tear their way through the fibres, and the casing is less likely to split.

10-10-11, 08:47 AM	#4
S-F You Ain't Me Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Northampton MA Posts: 662 Thanks: 6 Thanked 71 Times in 58 Posts	I like to use a hive tool: Google They are pretty flat and work well for both removing trim and for removing siding for dense packing.

10-10-11, 09:38 AM	#5
MN Renovator Less usage=Cheaper bills Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 939 Thanks: 41 Thanked 116 Times in 90 Posts	Ditto on the butter knife, slide it in close to where a nail is until you are at the handle and then the wood is supported and pull on the handle and other side of the knife. Some nails were a little tougher so I'd use the knife to get as much space as I could and then slipped in a crow bar or hammer.

10-10-11, 11:26 AM	#6
strider3700 Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Vancouver Island BC Posts: 745 Thanks: 23 Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts	I caulk the trim when I put it back on so any minor damage from the tools can be filled at that time. The only major thing that could go wrong is snapping or splitting the trim during removal but that's unlikely if you're careful enough.

10-13-11, 06:03 AM	#8
herlichka Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Simcoe County, Ontario, Canada Posts: 102 Thanks: 11 Thanked 15 Times in 10 Posts	Grinding may be a time efficient option in a whole house reno, in an unoccupied building, but those red hot sparks may be an issue with tinder dry window shims and dust in the jambs, and they can leave nasty rust spots on any surface that they melt their way into, and the grinding smoke clings to fabric and upholstery. Please don't get me wrong, like I say, there is a time and place for the grinder, but for a window or two you may find that a bit of finesse with your ViceGrips may be much safer.