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Old 02-06-16, 02:53 PM   #251
Xringer
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Default 18,000 BTU, good for -20 F??

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinballlooking View Post
They make a 9,000, 12,000 and a 18,000 BTU that all go to a -20 F and if you look at their capacity range they are under rated.
18K Capacity Range 4,436 -21,496 BTU/H

I like this one..
GREE Crown Series 18,000 BTU Single-Zone Ductless Split
BIG GAME BLITZ SAVE 5% on all Gree Systems. Use Coupon Code: BIG-GAME


I wonder if the line set path can go downwards? (instead of a hole-in-the-wall), like I have for my Den install.. It had a cut-out outlined in the cover.(see pic)

Yesterday, we had a snow storm and a power grid glitch..
Afterwards, the Den Sanyo wasn't using any power..
Maybe the crankcase heater has failed, but the Diagnostic says maybe it's the main board.. ($1,100)..
Or maybe it's the PSU caps, and I can install some replacements.?.
Going to pop the top tomorrow after noon, when it's up around 40F..
Maybe it's something that I can repair..

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My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits
EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..
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Old 02-06-16, 05:45 PM   #252
WyrTwister
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The new Friedrich 16 SEER 1 ton 120 VAC mini split we installed in our bedroom , last spring , quit a few weeks ago .

When it warmed up a little , I pulled the top off the outside unit ( indoor unit was giving an error code that meant comm error .

There is only one board in the outdoor unit . A component blew . Do not know why , unless we had lightning or power flicker / surge during a snow storm ? The schematic shows a surge suppressor in the power input side .

Went to Johnstone & they ordered a board . Took a couple of weeks to arrive . We bought the equipment on sale , so it turned out the purchase price ( sale ) for the outdoor unit was close to the price for the board . I was not impressed with that .

Luckily , the equipment has a 5 year warranty , so the board was in warranty . I paid for the board up front . Went home and swapped out the board & started it up . I wanted to do it one wire at a time .

Praise the Lord ! Seems to be working fine . :-)

Took the old board back to Johnstone and they refunded my money , back to my cars . Thank you Johnstone . :-)

That is probably one advantage of purchasing locally .

Hope you have good luck finding a board at a reasonable price . Is yours in warranty ? If not , check on the purchase price of a new unit ?

God bless
Wyr
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Old 02-06-16, 05:47 PM   #253
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Talking about pan heaters , looking down into the Friedrich ( I thought I dropped a screw down there ) I think I saw heat tape attached to the inside bottom of the metal case .

God bless
Wyr

PS - I am considering installing a whole house surge suppressor .
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Old 02-09-16, 09:48 PM   #254
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Unless you installed one, doubtful you have a pan heater as it's optional equipment - likely because the juice would kill the efficiency ratings, and to cut costs.
I've only seen the Fujitsu offer a couple models that come with it installed, and the HSPF numbers do drop, although the latest model they seem to have implemented some logic around that (hopefully it's realistic in the field).

Can anyone shop at Johnstone supply?
Do they need you to be licensed HVAC to honor warranty?
It looks like for the most part, as new models come out yearly, that parts will be just as much as new replacement; if only one didn't have to re-vacuum


I installed a surge suppressor on the disconnect box of the minisplit for about $30; mounts on the knockout. similar:
https://www.zoro.com/square-d-surge-...75/i/G0447772/
I also have a whole house Eaton one that integrates into the Eaton panel.
I doubt they help/prevent that much, but wanted to do it.

I did have to open up the outside box once for a blown fuse. I think I got to aggressive with the cleaning and water caused an arc. Surge suppressors on the power supply lines did no good for the line interconnected the inside and outside, but at least they did put a replaceable fuse on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WyrTwister View Post
Talking about pan heaters , looking down into the Friedrich ( I thought I dropped a screw down there ) I think I saw heat tape attached to the inside bottom of the metal case .

God bless
Wyr

PS - I am considering installing a whole house surge suppressor .
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Old 02-10-16, 02:37 AM   #255
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Got to love those little black burnt things. I just fixed my buddy's furnace this month for not hundreds of dollars. Main failure: no ignition followed by three strikes and you're out. Root cause: burnt black thing. New control board was $$$, over 200. New black thing plus a foot of bad solder was under $5. While we were in there, we replaced the hot surface ignitor too. It cost more than the little black thing (omron spst relay).

Hope xringer finds a little burnt thing in his unit.
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Old 02-10-16, 04:42 AM   #256
WyrTwister
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgottapee View Post
Unless you installed one, doubtful you have a pan heater as it's optional equipment - likely because the juice would kill the efficiency ratings, and to cut costs.
I've only seen the Fujitsu offer a couple models that come with it installed, and the HSPF numbers do drop, although the latest model they seem to have implemented some logic around that (hopefully it's realistic in the field).

Can anyone shop at Johnstone supply?
Do they need you to be licensed HVAC to honor warranty?
It looks like for the most part, as new models come out yearly, that parts will be just as much as new replacement; if only one didn't have to re-vacuum


I installed a surge suppressor on the disconnect box of the minisplit for about $30; mounts on the knockout. similar:
https://www.zoro.com/square-d-surge-...75/i/G0447772/
I also have a whole house Eaton one that integrates into the Eaton panel.
I doubt they help/prevent that much, but wanted to do it.

I did have to open up the outside box once for a blown fuse. I think I got to aggressive with the cleaning and water caused an arc. Surge suppressors on the power supply lines did no good for the line interconnected the inside and outside, but at least they did put a replaceable fuse on it.
Looked at the wiring diagram & it shows 1 heater for compressor and 1 heater for chassis .

Johnstone is wholesale only . We have bought a few things from them for years . Mainly relays and things like that .

I bought both of out MS's from them .

If you walk in the door and pay cash , they may or may not ask if you are a contractor ?

I have ordered the Sq D SDSA1175 off of EBay & plan to install it on our main ( outdoor ) panel .

I do have an EPA card , but they never asked to see it . Even when I bought R22 for our old central air condenser . You do not have to have an EPA card to buy R410a or R 134a .

The component on the board , that blew , I have no idea what it was ?

I bought a vacuum pump years ago , when I installed the central A/C system . So vacuuming a system down is no big deal . I also have used it several times on automotive A/C systems .

The biggest problem with replacing the condenser unit may be getting the exact unit at some latter date . Or one close enough to communicate with the indoor unit . I have thought about that and have no solid answer .

This market is changing rapidly . I would not be surprised if last years model may be unavailable a year latter ?

Replacing both the indoor unit and the outdoor unit would involve re-doing the line set .

God bless
Wyr
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Old 02-10-16, 04:44 AM   #257
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Yes , I also hope Xinger can fix his Sayno for a reasonable cost .

God bless
Wyr
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Old 09-03-16, 01:27 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinballlooking View Post
Gree 9,000 BTU 27 SEER Terra Ductless Heat Pump Air Conditioner System
LG 21,000 BTU 21 SEER Ductless Dual Zone Heat Pump System 9,000+12,000
This is a wonderfully useful thread. Is it a forum sticky?

Moving on.

I bought and installed the Gree Terra 24,000 btu 21 SEER about 2 years ago, using an HVAC professional to install the lines. It has run continuously during that time, only being shut off for filter cleaning. It maintains a very even temperature distribution for the lower floor (about 1100 sq ft).

This summer I bought a Sennville 12,000 btu for the upstairs bedroom, replacing the old one ton window unit. Part of the deal was I had to remove the old ac ducting from the attics so my wife could have more storage room. "Offer accepted, Thank you, dear!" The entire install was done by me with an HVAC pro only being used to release the R410A after I had vacuumed the system. This bedroom was exposed to direct south and west sun and winter winds making it a barely comfortable room previously. Those days are now gone.

Two months ago I bought two 27 SEER Gree 9,000 btu units. I expect to install them this month for the downstairs bedrooms. Though I am comfortable releasing the freon for these installations, I probably will spend the money for the HVAC guy to open the valves that release the refrigerant (for the sake of the 5/7 year warranty). He loves it, spending about an hour double-checking things and performing initial start-up and testing of the unit, (even watching operatlng line pressures) before filling out the warranty form and invoice.

One note of caution since I have not seen it mentioned. If you do not have a tool to scan the wall for electric cables, carefully drill the inside wall hole and stop. Before continuing on, carefully separate the insulation to check for any electric cables that may be hidden from view. Not doing this may ruin your day and even your life! If no cable is present you may continue on with drilling the outside hole, making it even with or a little lower than the inside hole.

Thanks again for the OP making this thread!

Last edited by Just One More; 09-04-16 at 12:54 PM.. Reason: lost /quote tag
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Old 09-03-16, 01:34 PM   #259
WyrTwister
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Very good point concerning hidden things in the wall . I do this as SOP & did not think to mention it in any of my discussions . Thanks ! :-)

How has the transition to MS's impacted your electric coasts ? Sounds like the comfort factor has improved ? I bet the noise factor is better than with the old equipment ? :-)

The hole through the wall should slope down a little to facilitate drainage .

God bless
Wyr
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Old 09-03-16, 10:52 PM   #260
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My drain line is 5/8" ID. That allows me to be even on the bubble level without a drainage problem. A slight down slope will eliminate or reduce condensation on the hose if not insulated, but truthfully I have had no problem with a flat exit and no slope of the wall unit.

I replaced a very old 5-ton central ac which used forced air electric heat (42,000 btu's, 14kw) with a 2-ton Gree Terra. It has cooled and heated the bottom floor better than the central ac at a much lower cost (due to better technology and about 30% in-attic duct loss.

I went further and zoned the bedrooms with window ac's and oil filled electric heaters. After the grand experiment worked, we are moving on to put mini splits in all bedrooms to further improve comfort, efficiency, and fire safety.

As an aside, I will note that I completely disassembled the old ac system and ducts myself to reclaim the attic space in my house.


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