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Old 01-12-13, 08:42 PM   #41
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A valid point. Yet. The egress code for windows in a basement is to allow a fireman with a tank on his back in. This is only necessary in rooms with a closet (a bedroom). Cutting a foundation away to make way for a bigger window is a PITA. You probably have to dig and then you have a window below grade, which sucks. If you ignore code, as I did with my basement, it does make sense to have a lot of ways out. Here we have a very available stair case going up right to the main door and an easily accessible bulkhead door. If my daughter can't get to either of those with the open floor plan of my basement she's lost already.

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You know you're an ecorenovator if anything worth insulating is worth superinsulating.
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S-F: "What happens when you slam the door on a really tight house? Do the basement windows blow out?"

Green Building Guru: "You can't slam the door on a really tight house. You have to work to pull it shut."
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Old 01-13-13, 11:17 AM   #42
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Cutting a foundation away to make way for a bigger window is a PITA. You probably have to dig and then you have a window below grade, which sucks.
Any job worth doing, is worth doing right. Taking shortcuts to save a few bucks can be justified, but no one ever plans to have bad things happen. That's why there are laws and codes to be followed. You know what's a PITA? Being responsible for someones death or disfigurement, should something bad happen, and knowing you could have prevented it. That sucks.
I don't want to derail the thread, and that's certainly not my intent. I just think that it's very important to consider the applicable codes and laws before tackling a project.
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Old 01-13-13, 06:29 PM   #43
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Well there aren't any bedrooms down there not will there be. Two of the 3 windows open large enough for an average sized person to get in or out
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Old 01-14-13, 07:56 AM   #44
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Well I've been running a lot new wires around the laundry room and the nearby rooms. So far I've ran about 400 feet of wire on the first half of the house. Hopefully in the next week or 2 ill be hanging the drywall in the laundry room. Already picked out the cabinets and things for in there. I feel kind of weird saying this but I can't wait to get the laundry room finished
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Old 02-09-13, 11:35 AM   #45
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DRYWALL!!!!



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Old 02-09-13, 11:51 AM   #46
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Looks good. I don't envy you though, having to mud/tape that.
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You know you're an ecorenovator if anything worth insulating is worth superinsulating.
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Old 02-13-13, 06:02 PM   #47
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Looks familiar!

Two words of advice:

Fire a LOT of tapcons into those bottom plates. All over the place. Put a couple hundred or so in. Or use a powder nailer. Usually people put the bottom plates on the slab and run the foam up to it. I didn't do this and it was the biggest mistake I made. I lost most of the remainder of my hair trying to figure out how to keep the damn floor from buckling. I ended up having to cut some breather room in the subfloor so it could move.
Can you elaborate a bit more on why the floor buckled? I am doing a similar job in my basement, but my floor is going to be a HDPE dimpled membrane (delta floor), then 1" SM XPS, and then I was going to build the walls, then sub-floor. I'm wondering if I'm going to be having any problems here.
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Old 02-13-13, 06:06 PM   #48
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Well there are no real pictures to post.. But I have been busy... Started re wiring what I can and I'm also running cat6 into all of the rooms since the basement is apart.. Should be buying some 2"x4'x8 sheaths for the floor and wall link..
May I ask why you are bothering to run Cat 6 everywhere? I just use wi-fi for Internet. I think I once heard of people using Cat 6 for HDMI connections.
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Old 02-14-13, 07:39 AM   #49
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Can you elaborate a bit more on why the floor buckled? I am doing a similar job in my basement, but my floor is going to be a HDPE dimpled membrane (delta floor), then 1" SM XPS, and then I was going to build the walls, then sub-floor. I'm wondering if I'm going to be having any problems here.
Any moisture will make the subfloor change shape. Usually this isn't a problem because people put it on regularly spaced joists and fasten them securely. When moisture levels change the joists and the subfloor both change shape. Just floating it over masonry provides not reliable means of fastening it. This is fine if you first fasten the bottom plates (pressure treated) to the masonry and then "float" the foam and subfloor between the walls leaving a 1/4" gap to account for expansion and contraction. My floor bowed and I used Advantech which is waxed in some way to resist moisture, so I can't imagine what regular subfloor would do. I ended up buzzing grooves in my floor to relieve the pressure. If I had to do this again I would fasten the walls to the slab with a powder nailer. I don't think it's a good idea to put the top plates on foam which is on something like DryCore or anything like that. It won't be able to support weight and the wall will sag eventually. Also you'd have to seal the foam to the foundation walls with something that won't dry up and crack when the foam moves (no product I know of. Maybe a Siga tape?) or else there's not point in the insulation board.
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You know you're an ecorenovator if anything worth insulating is worth superinsulating.
Quote:
S-F: "What happens when you slam the door on a really tight house? Do the basement windows blow out?"

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Old 02-15-13, 05:33 PM   #50
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Any moisture will make the subfloor change shape. Usually this isn't a problem because people put it on regularly spaced joists and fasten them securely. When moisture levels change the joists and the subfloor both change shape. Just floating it over masonry provides not reliable means of fastening it. This is fine if you first fasten the bottom plates (pressure treated) to the masonry and then "float" the foam and subfloor between the walls leaving a 1/4" gap to account for expansion and contraction. My floor bowed and I used Advantech which is waxed in some way to resist moisture, so I can't imagine what regular subfloor would do. I ended up buzzing grooves in my floor to relieve the pressure. If I had to do this again I would fasten the walls to the slab with a powder nailer. I don't think it's a good idea to put the top plates on foam which is on something like DryCore or anything like that. It won't be able to support weight and the wall will sag eventually. Also you'd have to seal the foam to the foundation walls with something that won't dry up and crack when the foam moves (no product I know of. Maybe a Siga tape?) or else there's not point in the insulation board.
The installation guide for DeltaFloors does say you can put no-load bearing walls on-top of it. I still plan on pining it to the floor (tapcon) and securing it to joists above. The wall itself won't weight a lot as its just 2' o/c 2x4s, fibreglass, and drywall.

I was planning on using a combination of PL300, expanding foam (great stuff), and tyvek tape to seal the floor to wall XPS boards.

The reason why I don't want the wall directly on the floor as it will defeat the purpose of the delta flooring by damming up any water seepage.

I plan on using the following detail for the floor on top of the delta floor. Things will be fastened. I'm hoping for very little moisture will the membrane and foam barriers.


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