09-28-13, 03:16 PM | #31 | |
Less usage=Cheaper bills
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This is also why 2 stage furnaces get put in many homes in the south, they provide the air flow needed for the AC but allow a lower firing rate than otherwise would be available with single stage equipment that supports that volume of airflow for the AC. An example explaining this with Bryant 2 burner furnaces. 80% efficiency 313AAV024045 44k input 36k heating output 800 CFM max airflow(2 ton AC) 96% efficiency 925TA36040E17 40k input 1200 CFM max airflow(3 ton AC) 3.5+ ton load, no go. Another note on oversizing: If I put a 40k input unit that has a low stage output of 25k in my house(2100 sq ft in Minneapolis, MN), it would only need high stage when it is 80 degrees colder outside than my indoor temperature setpoint, figuring nobody has a door or window open too long and the thermostat is left as-is. The number of days we drop below -10f even in Minnesota is about 5 days and even then its only for a few hours except for when we drop to -20f which usually only happens every other year. I'd be comfortable with a 25k output furnace but since the smallest available is a 40k, its what goes in and I'm not going 2-stage because high fire is more efficient with gas and electricity(although only by a little bit). Last edited by MN Renovator; 09-28-13 at 03:30 PM.. |
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09-28-13, 03:22 PM | #32 | |
Master EcoRenovator
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You could install two independent systems . Do not know enough to know how you would make that work , w/o having 2 sets of duct work ? This would increase your installation cost . Do not know about the operating cost ? I have worked on large systems where they had 2 furnaces twined together , to a single return air plenum and tied into a single supply plenum . Both fans came on , any time heat or cool was called for . Can not remember if the gas valves were wired for two stage operation ? Seems like the two condenser units were wired as two stage cool ( 2 separate A-Coils ) . But I have only seen this done to serve large spaces . God bless Wyr |
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09-28-13, 03:35 PM | #33 |
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We have our fair share of wind , both summer & winter . I suspect it increases the heat load & the coolinh load ? Especially in older houses that are not as " tight " as newer houses ? Or as well insulated ?
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09-30-13, 08:15 AM | #34 | |
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I ended up installing 3 single head mini splits and one duel head unit. http://ecorenovator.org/forum/geothe...t-install.html Last edited by pinballlooking; 04-14-15 at 03:26 PM.. |
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09-30-13, 04:02 PM | #35 |
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I have a cooling-only unit that did this. I took it apart, cleaned the motor connector (fan speed sensor is integrated with the fan motor) and put dielectric grease on all of the pins. Did the same with the main chassis grounding wire, which had become quite corroded, and that seemed to fix it. This unit does not have a coil dry mode when it shuts off, so I think it stays fairly damp and promotes corrosion. I now try to run it fan-only for a few minutes before shutting it down.
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09-30-13, 05:24 PM | #36 | |
Lex Parsimoniae
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but we've been out of the cooling season for a while now. Not seeing any problem in the heating mode. So far.. Not sure I want to take the whole cover off to get at the motor unit. I'll wait and see if the problem comes back.. I've learned not to attempt repairs on machines that aren't failing at the time of the repair 'attempt'..
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My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less.. |
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