Help , Please - Mini-Split HP Repair

[WyrTwister]

I need to know how to replace some of the oil and what kind of oil is needed for a mini-split ?

Mine is a bottom of the line 13 SEER 12,000 Comfort Aire HP . I am guessing they use the same kind of oil , but that is just a guess ?

I emailed the company , but no reply , so far ?

Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless

[AC_Hacker]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister

I need to know how to replace some of the oil...

Why do you need to replace some of the oil?

How much do you think you need to replace?

-AC

[mejunkhound]

R-22 Capella oil (aka no wax no detergent, otherwise like in your car)

R-410A POE

You don't know if you have 22 or 410A? Then you need to do a LOT of reading on the web, here or other places before asking inane questions (as ACH implied, but too nice to say right out <G>)

Have never heard of a mini-split having one of the old type unsealed reciprocating compressors, but if there is such an old beast, it surely uses Capella oil. (e.G. 1970s chrysler compressors that have a crankcase oil fill plug)

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by AC_Hacker

Why do you need to replace some of the oil?

How much do you think you need to replace?

-AC

Well , the system was running OK for several days .

This weekend , I got around to finish insulating the liquid & suction lines ( I had left the last few inches " bare " so I could flare the ends ) , and the service valves .

I dumbed up and bent the liquid line around , a tad , to make it easier to insulate . Should have left well enough alone . :-(

Few hours latter , I noticed the unit did not seem to be cooling . Went out side and noticed a wet spot on the concrete . I guessed I did not get things insulated completely & it was still sweating , some .

Stuck my finger in it & it was not water ! It was oil . Unwrapped the insulation & the flare nut on the liquid line was leaking oil & a little refrigerant .

The oil on the concrete was about 10" by 4" . I put the gauges on it & it still has a few pounds of pressure . I shut the service valves off .

Since I posted this question , early this AM , I talked to factory technical assistance . He said the unit is charged with a lot of oil , to compensate for long line sets . He said , for no more than that , he would not add any .

I also asked him if what kind of poly ester oil . He said it was the same used in big R410a units .

So , that is where I am , as of now .

God bless
Wyr

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by mejunkhound

R-22 Capella oil (aka no wax no detergent, otherwise like in your car)

R-410A POE

You don't know if you have 22 or 410A? Then you need to do a LOT of reading on the web, here or other places before asking inane questions (as ACH implied, but too nice to say right out <G>)

Have never heard of a mini-split having one of the old type unsealed reciprocating compressors, but if there is such an old beast, it surely uses Capella oil. (e.G. 1970s chrysler compressors that have a crankcase oil fill plug)

Perhaps I did not word my question well ? Perhaps I should not have assumed all mini-splits were R410a ?

I did not expect rude replies .

I have done a lot of reading and studing on the web .

I do know the system used R410a . It states that on the factory label / tag and the charge weight , in ounces .

I have read mini-splits use poly ester oil - POE .

I did not know if there were different kinds / viscosities / formulations for different mini-splits . So , I asked . I have since been told it is all the same ?

I have added small amounts oil to refrigeration systems , in the past , by filling the hose with oil & then using refrigerant pressure to " shoot " it into the system .

I intended to ask , for other ideas of good ways to do it .

I welcome any and all information .

God bless
Wyr

[AC_Hacker]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister

...I welcome any and all information...

> I put the gauges on it & it still has a few pounds of pressure

If you only had a few pounds of pressure, it looks to me like you have lost all your refrigerant.

You'll need to repair the line-set leak.

Then you'll need to do a full pump down and all that goes with it.

I'd say that the tools you will need are:

• Brazing torch and sliver phosphorous brazing rod
• inert gas purge set, tank, regulator, etc (dry nitrogen preferred)
• manifold gauge set
• vacuum pump
• micron gauge (to assure that you have the required vacuum and have actually fixed all leaks)
• All the wrenches required, including crow's foot wrenches that will fit onto your torque wrench.
• assembly lube that will be compatible with your refrigerant
• enough 410a to set your system back up

(I didn't price out this stuff, I didn't want to take away any of the fun.)

If you already have all or most of these tools, I'd say go ahead and DIY.

If you don't have all or most of these tools, it might be cheaper to have the work done by a HVAC tech.

However, if you don't have all or most of these tools and you really like acquiring new tools, then let the party begin.

Xringer did most of the work you are about to do, and he documented it pretty well, so that may help.

Best,

-AC

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by AC_Hacker

> I put the gauges on it & it still has a few pounds of pressure

If you only had a few pounds of pressure, it looks to me like you have lost all your refrigerant.

You'll need to repair the line-set leak.

Then you'll need to do a full pump down and all that goes with it.

I'd say that the tools you will need are:

• Brazing torch and sliver phosphorous brazing rod
• inert gas purge set, tank, regulator, etc (dry nitrogen preferred)
• manifold gauge set
• vacuum pump
• micron gauge (to assure that you have the required vacuum and have actually fixed all leaks)
• All the wrenches required, including crow's foot wrenches that will fit onto your torque wrench.
• assembly lube that will be compatible with your refrigerant
• enough 410a to set your system back up

(I didn't price out this stuff, I didn't want to take away any of the fun.)

If you already have all or most of these tools, I'd say go ahead and DIY.

If you don't have all or most of these tools, it might be cheaper to have the work done by a HVAC tech.

However, if you don't have all or most of these tools and you really like acquiring new tools, then let the party begin.

Xringer did most of the work you are about to do, and he documented it pretty well, so that may help.

Best,

-AC

Yes , I have read Xringer 's posts . Very helpful & very informative .

I have the tools . I installed the system several days ago . I dumbed up and caused the leak , myself . :-(

It is leaking at the liquid line flare nut , to the condenser . I moved the line while finishing up insulating the last few inches of copper and the service valve . Damaging / bending the line at the flare nut .

I will cut the flare off , with tubing cutter . Re-flare the end of the copper . Vacuum it down & the charge it back up with R410a .

Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless

[WyrTwister]

I looked on a couple of web sites that sell HVAC supplies . They list several different viscosity of POE - poly ester oils ?

So , I am uncertain , again ? If I did end up having to add some oil ?

I have used ester oil ( 100 viscosity in an automotive A/C ) . And I do not know if that is the same as used in HVAC ( split systems , mini-splits or Roof Top Package units ) ?

God bless
Wyr

[WyrTwister]

Gassed the mini-split up , after work , Monday .

It seemed to run OK , Praise the Lord ! :-)

It ran last nite , until we cut it off , when we went to bed .

Have not checked it , this AM .

Wyr
God bless

http://s719.photobucket.com/user/Wyr...41737354690353

http://s719.photobucket.com/user/Wyr...41737354690353

http://s719.photobucket.com/user/Wyr...41737354690353

http://s719.photobucket.com/user/Wyr...41737354690353

[AC_Hacker]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister

...It seemed to run OK , Praise the Lord ! :-)...

I think the refrigeration goddess is well pleased with your work.

-AC