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Old 02-16-15, 10:34 AM   #241
Drake
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Excellent remodel. So much of the things one can decide to do is a trade off of what you have structure wise to start with, how much you can or care to invest, how much you can save by DYI and material sourcing and what is one valuing as cost effective. I think you can have confidence in your exterior wall retro fit which can be done several ways and to the degree one has space(or wall thickness) to give to it. A few R's here or there I don't think need to be sweated when the point is reached where other things like fresh air, infiltration become more critical correctable factors. I remodeled(more accurately rebuilt) my exciting modest sized 50's home 30 yrs ago using insulating research done by the UofMN which very much proved the best place to retrofit non permeable hi R insulation is on the inside of the vapor barrier as discussed NOT the outside of the easiest, most visible method Professional have done for years at great risk of potential structural and maybe more disastrous mold damage. The heating of or house was more than cut in half and is affected more now by how many times we open the exterior doors than most anything else. I just a few years ago added a three season room to one wall and opened it up from the exterior to put up new wall sheathing that I could adhere ceramic tile to and the insulation in the cavities was still perfect with not sign of moisture buildup. I think you will be happy with your efforts.

I maybe missed it but I am curious why you laid wood floor parallel w/pex rather than across, where it would have been easier to nail around pex to subfloor? Aesthetics of flooring?

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Old 02-18-15, 02:15 PM   #242
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Thanks. I'm already pretty happy with it. It will be great to get the floor all hooked up though.

As for the flooring running parallel to the tubing, that was a compromise. I needed the tubing to run the way it did to maximize heating area due to the irregular shape of the room. Choosing to run the flooring the direction it is was always the plan, mainly for aesthetic reasons.
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Old 03-17-15, 12:24 PM   #243
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Woohoo, another update. We've been working on the trim. Last weekend we got the baseboard taken care of. We would have had the windows done, but I had some polyurethane issues... If you guys have any idea what caused this I'm all ears.




The baseboard is installed. The stained pine board matches the bamboo floor quite nicely. The windows can't be done because the boards you see in the window have the problem shown in the next picture.





Here is the polyurethane issue I had. It turned white in certain areas. I tried sanding it out last night, but it must be between the stained wood and polyurethane as I started sanding the stained wood off. So, I'm planning on sanding down the boards that have this problem. Then, I'll have to re-stain, and re-polyurethane them.

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Old 03-17-15, 12:35 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Here is the polyurethane issue I had. It turned white in certain areas.
Bummer. More work!

I assume you did some searches. Here are a couple that seem very similar:

white patches after polyurethane coat - Finishing - Wood Talk Online

White haze on quarter-sawn oak - WOOD Community

Culprit theories: moisture/humidity and/or reaction with the base stain.
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Old 03-17-15, 12:38 PM   #245
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Woo, thankfully none of mine is as bad as those. I actually haven't searched on it. I used the same brand stain and polyurethane, so I assume they'd play nice with each other. Moisture and humidity could be an issue. I let the boards sit out as it was getting colder, dew may have formed.

The very odd thing was that after the 1st coat of polyurethane, it looked great. I sanded and put another coat on like the directions say. After that coat had dried for a few hours is when I noticed the white, not before.
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Old 03-19-15, 09:02 AM   #246
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I started sanding down the boards last night. 80 grid on my random orbit sander made the job go pretty quickly. That is until the foam pad on my sander sheared in half. I guess the foam was too old and tired. I grabbed a new one on the way home from church last night and will continue sanding tonight.
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Old 03-23-15, 03:00 PM   #247
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I got everything that was messed up sanded and restained this weekend. I want to make sure that stain is fully dried before putting the poly over it this time... That, and its been fairly cold out. I did the previous staining inside last time, and that sure does stink up the house.
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Old 03-30-15, 11:37 AM   #248
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I had a problem with one of the four boards again. This time I more carefully examined them before putting the poly on. It seems I was putting the stain on a bit too thick. I was doing this to try and color match the best I could. Well, some stain must have pooled and not soaked in. Instead, it dried on top of the board, and this caused the problem.

I sanded down my one board again and re-stained it this weekend. This time I just let it sit for a good 30 minutes (5-15 recommended on the can) and then wiped it down. I don't anticipate any problems this time.
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Old 03-30-15, 11:46 AM   #249
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Sure is a drag to have to do the same work multiple times, but at least it appears you have identified the cause of your problem. That's encouraging.
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Old 03-30-15, 11:56 AM   #250
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Yeah, I don't like doing the same thing over and over. Thankfully the time needed to do the work isn't bad at all. But, waiting for the drying has been a pain. I'm pushing to get this done as soon as I can, and you can't really speed up the drying process, or when the weather allows you to work.

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