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Old 07-06-14, 08:13 AM   #21
stef110
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yesterday i received a vacuum meter and a schrader valve so that i can make an extra service port.
The problem is that with my current vacuum pump i reach about 1000 microns of vacuum will this be enough?
I also made a little movie of the brazing i did to day.



stef


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Old 07-06-14, 08:55 PM   #22
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I don't know if other people are have trouble with your brazing video, but I had to go to "page source" and hunt down the URL, so I am re-posting it here...




But back to your micron gauge issue, in my opinion, 1000 microns is not so good.

I have found that fresh vacuum pump oil is extremely important. If you didn't do it already, I would recommend completely draining your vacuum pump, and replacing the oil with new, fresh vacuum pump oil that is being poured out of a newly-opened container.

I have seen fresh vacuum pump oil bring a vacuum pump to life.

Good luck!!

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Old 07-15-14, 02:34 PM   #23
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I replaced the vacuum oil and cleanup the vacuum sensor.
Today i reached 300 microns will this also bee acceptable?
or should i search for a better pump?

stef
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Old 07-15-14, 04:13 PM   #24
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I read 500 microns or better are acceptable .

God bless
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Old 07-15-14, 04:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef110 View Post
I replaced the vacuum oil and cleanup the vacuum sensor.
Today i reached 300 microns will this also bee acceptable?
or should i search for a better pump?

stef
You're OK.

Pull your vacuum, and keep an eye on the gauge you'll probably see it go down to it's minimum... keep pumping... you may see the readings 'jump' a bit... this is water vaporizing out.

You should keep pumping for maybe an hour. Vacuum pumps are built for that kind of use.

Get a good book to read while you're waiting.

-AC
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Old 07-16-14, 12:02 AM   #26
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I managed to get this reading after 2 hours, with also running a cooling fan on the pump.
On the internet I already found a second handed dual stage yellow jacked pump.
The gauge I use had some leds, and not a digital value to read.


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Old 07-16-14, 02:14 PM   #27
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Pump is running as we speak for about 4 hours and it stil stuck at 300 microns.
Even when i close the valves to unit so i only suck at the hose between pump and meter set, it stays at 300 microns.

On a manual if found it says, if you reach 400 microns and you close valve at pump side and the vacuum will go from 400 to about 600 a 700 microns in two minutes your system will be oke. Is this correct?

Will this be oke? if yes or no please tell me then can reject or accept the buy of the new pump.


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Old 07-16-14, 02:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef110 View Post
Pump is running as we speak for about 4 hours and it stil stuck at 300 microns.
Even when i close the valves to unit so i only suck at the hose between pump and meter set, it stays at 300 microns.

On a manual if found it says, if you reach 400 microns and you close valve at pump side and the vacuum will go from 400 to about 600 a 700 microns in two minutes your system will be oke. Is this correct?

Will this be oke? if yes or no please tell me then can reject or accept the buy of the new pump.


I think you're good to go.

You should charge it up now...

-AC
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Old 07-21-14, 12:58 PM   #29
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Today i finally released the gas in to the circuit.
For a fast test i hooked up a water pump and a bucked of water to test it and it worked



A question the 4-way valve when should you switch it? at the same time the compressor starts en when do you cut if off? when the compressor quits?

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Old 07-21-14, 01:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef110 View Post
Today i finally released the gas in to the circuit.
For a fast test i hooked up a water pump and a bucked of water to test it and it worked


Welcome to the Club of Obsessed Madmen!


Quote:
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A question the 4-way valve when should you switch it? at the same time the compressor starts en when do you cut if off? when the compressor quits?

stef
It's a bit difficult to understand your setup from your photo, etc.

How do you plan to use your heat pump?

To warm?

To Cool?

To do both?

Your 4-way valve probably has a "default" position that it goes to when it is not energized (no volts applied). Set up your heat pump so that the defalut position of your 4-way valve will result in the configuration you want to use most often.

Then energize the 4-way valve when you desire the opposite (less often used) functioning.

And yes, your 4-way does not need to be energized when the compressor is not running.

-AC

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