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Old 12-11-11, 02:27 AM   #31
AC_Hacker
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Originally Posted by rhino 660 View Post
well my water table is alot higher than it was before i hit water at 5' in the summer it was 7'...
Wow!

Heck of a trench you've got going on there!

Did you happen to check the temperature at the bottom of your trench?

Just out of curiosity, what are the dimensions of the trench you're digging?
  • Length?
  • Depth?
  • Width?
  • Pipe diameter?
  • Total pipe length?

How many Tons of cooling are you expecting?

Looks like you have a pretty good size back yard to work with there... I envy you that you have so much space to work with.

Thanks for the photos. I hope other folks catch the idea from your pics that they can do it too.

Good luck, and keep us posted...

-AC_Hacker

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Old 12-11-11, 08:09 AM   #32
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WOW!!
With the lines sitting in water logged soil, that loop is going to work really great in the winter..
Are you sure, that you won't need any hot water during the winter?
(Like for a heated swimming pool)?

So, will the water table drop back down to 7' during the summer?
And will much of the loop still be submerged during the warm months?

It seems like, even with a two foot seasonal change, the moist mud zone is going to be pretty thick. (and effective)!

Keep up the good work!
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Old 12-11-11, 07:51 PM   #33
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Wow!

Heck of a trench you've got going on there!

Did you happen to check the temperature at the bottom of your trench?

its 70*

Just out of curiosity, what are the dimensions of the trench you're digging?
  • Length? 80'
  • Depth? 5'
  • Width? 3'
  • Pipe diameter? 3/4''
  • Total pipe length? 2100'

How many Tons of cooling are you expecting? 2 tons

Looks like you have a pretty good size back yard to work with there... I envy you that you have so much space to work with. yea its about time i get to put this space to work

Thanks for the photos. I hope other folks catch the idea from your pics that they can do it too yes its easy



-AC_Hacker
joe geothermal

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Old 12-11-11, 07:57 PM   #34
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[QUOTE=Xringer;18243]WOW!!
With the lines sitting in water logged soil, that loop is going to work really great in the winter..
Are you sure, that you won't need any hot water during the winter?
(Like for a heated swimming pool)?


no swimming pool for me to much work and money lol



So, will the water table drop back down to 7' during the summer?

i guess so

And will much of the loop still be submerged during the warm months?

i guess it all depends on how much or little rain we get

It seems like, even with a two foot seasonal change, the moist mud zone is going to be pretty thick. (and effective)!


yes i think very effective
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Old 01-01-12, 07:06 PM   #35
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loopfeild is done











this is where my manifold will be and then feed into the garage about 12' under the slab






here's the hole its about 2 1/2' deep




here is a link to more pictures
geothermal pictures by rhino660 - Photobucket
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Old 01-02-12, 02:26 AM   #36
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loopfeild is done...
Great work, rhino... you've come a long way there.

So, I'm guessing that you're going to finish up the pipe lead-ins and I would think that you will build some kind of panel that will mount your pumps, and a manifold with ball valves on each loop that will allow you to close off each loop in your system, so that when it comes to purging air, you'll be able to purge the loops one at a time.

It will also be handy to have a thermometer at the send and a thermometer at the return for the whole loop field, so you know what's going on down there in the ground temperature-wise.

Then comes the heat pump part... You gonna make or buy?

Great work, keep it up.

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Old 01-02-12, 03:57 PM   #37
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Wow! That was a lot of work!! Loved the slide show!!

Fav pic..
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Old 01-02-12, 09:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC_Hacker View Post
Great work, rhino... you've come a long way there.

So, I'm guessing that you're going to finish up the pipe lead-ins and I would think that you will build some kind of panel that will mount your pumps, and a manifold with ball valves on each loop that will allow you to close off each loop in your system, so that when it comes to purging air, you'll be able to purge the loops one at a time.

yes im working on something like that

It will also be handy to have a thermometer at the send and a thermometer at the return for the whole loop field, so you know what's going on down there in the ground temperature-wise.
yup im planning on this also
Then comes the heat pump part... You gonna make or buy?
i have decided to get a single stage 2 ton unit from climatemaster with the desuperheater
Great work, keep it up.

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joe geothermal
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Old 01-02-12, 09:44 PM   #39
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i just got 3 epa certifications lastnight so that i can legally buy refrigerant and service heatpumps
(by law anyone who messes with refrigerant has to be epa certified) for me it was easy and very informing allmost like a tech manual i did my type-1 cert,R410A cert, and my PM-tech cert, at EPA Certification by Mainstream Engineering when i get time im also going to grab the green tech cert all open book and they give you the book online cost $25.00 for the tests

you guys should really do this for our planet at least lol
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Old 01-08-12, 04:45 PM   #40
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i need help figuring out how much resistance my pump will encounter in my system so i can buy a properly sized pump. ive looked on the net quite a bit and had no luck

i have 3 3/4'' 700' loops in parallel using first in last out at the manifold 3 3/4'' ball valves into 1 1/4'' secdule 40 pvc (22' total) 3 90* 1 1/4'' fittings
and im using a climate master tranquilty 20 series 2 ton unit i think i need 6gpm which will give me 19.9 eer

coil water pressure drop
at 6.0gpm 2.3 psi 5.3ft head

it also shows at 8gpm i get 20.7 eer 3.8psi 8.8ft head
should i use 8 gpm or 6gpm
i dont know how to put all of this info together if anyone could help thanks






here is info from the climate master book look at page #ts 103
http://www.climatemaster.com/share/R...ion_5_TS20.pdf


my flow center for removing air and storing water and also where the pipes enter the garage





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