Garage / workshop project - Page 13

gasstingy · 09-20-10, 07:46 AM

Work progressed somewhat slower than I hoped again this weekend. The main point to that is that it did progress.

Adam helped and we worked nearly all day Saturday. I put in some more time on Sunday, hanging some more metal edge on the overhangs and putting tar paper on the overhangs.

The Hardiesoffit material gave me less trouble when I predrilled the holes, so in the first two pictures, I am drilling and nailing soffit on the north wall overhang with Adam helping. The last two pictures are of the rear overhang getting it's soffit hung. I didn't predrill any of that. I can tell you that if you're going to nail up soffit boards, you have to mark where all of the 2x's are. I just marked the inside of the fascia boards and top of the housewrap and tar paper.

Besides getting the north and south overhang soffits finished (I did fill the gap on the end of the soffit showing in picture 3) and the rear soffit finished, I predrilled the siding I am going to hang on the north wall overhang. It will require some trim boards at both ends and a strip horizontally at the top, but it is moving along.

Daox · 09-20-10, 09:12 AM

Why are you putting tar paper on the overhangs?

gasstingy · 09-20-10, 10:15 AM

I put tar paper on the north & south overhangs because they are 13" +/- tall and I'll be putting siding (painted white) on them. The fascia boards (5 1/2" +/-) on the east & west ends will be wrapped in white aluminum.

I think (no guarantees) that if I used aluminum, it would give the visual effect we called "oil canning" when I worked on aircraft. That's an appearance that looks sort of warped.

Daox · 09-20-10, 11:21 AM

Ah, yeah that makes sense.

gasstingy · 10-11-10, 07:48 AM

OK, it's taken way too long to make such little amounts of headway that it's embarrassing. I finally had enough help over the last two Saturdays to get the overhangs covered in siding and trimmed out.

I found that I needed help to hang those big overhang boards. Adam helped the first weekend to get the three big boards up on the south overhang. When we hung them, we hadn't worked all the way through how to trim them out. This is what we did to make it work. First, we put HardieTrim on each end of the overhang, vertically. We came back and hung the 12' pieces of HardiePlank and then {midweek, between Saturdays} I put most of the PVC trim at the top, horizontally. It got too dark for me to measure the last piece, so I waited until the weekend.

I jokingly refer to the PVC part as plastic wood. It is a PVC product, dimesioned like a 1x6 board {so 3/4" x 5 3/4"} with a wood grain texture added to one side. Since my overhang to be covered was more than 13" tall, my 12" siding wouldn't do the job. We hung the siding pieces so they covered the lower 12" and made trim pieces from the PVC boards. I started by ripping them in half length-wise. Next cut was to put an 8 degree bevel on the top so that any water that blew onto it would run down the face of the board. Then, I cut a 5/16" by ~1 3/4" notch out of the backside, the length of the board. This allowed the trim to lay flat over the siding, and it worked just fine.

Jennifer came to help this past Saturday and we hung and caulked the entire north overhang and finished the trim on the south overhang and caulked it to. I got to say, I really like the way it turned out.

Pictures below!

Daox · 11-04-10, 09:41 AM

Any updates on the garage?

gasstingy · 11-04-10, 11:19 AM

Thanks for checking up on me. I should have already posted more on the little bit of progress we've made.

I'll try to gather some pictures up this weekend and post Monday. If you recall, I've struggled for quite some time trying to figure out how to keep from damaging the foam insulation that goes all the way around the inside perimeter of the building, and exposed in all but the drive-in door opening. I finally came up with a plan for the walk-in door openings and it worked! I'll describe it when I post the pictures of how we did it. I hung the front walk-in door hung last Sunday afternoon and the side walk-in door should go in this Saturday.

It took more Hardie Plank to do the ends than I originally thought. I've bought 90 pieces so far and we ripped 1 into 1" wide strips, and painted the other 89. The 1" strips go all the way around the bottom edge of the building to create the appropriate angle on the bottom most plank. We painted 6 white for the overhang and 83 red for the walls.

What I never outsmarted was correcting for my garage door opening. The sloped part of the drive-in door opening is not level side to side, so we don't have the header quite level {about an inch over 12 feet}. I also couldn't come up with a viable plan for getting past the buildings "shoulders," where the end walls go from being 24' wide to 27'6" wide on the trusses, so I hired a guy smarter than me to hang the siding on the front and back walls. {This also gives me my plank overlap, since I need to match the ends when I hang the sides.} Tuesday he finished the back wall and it looks good. He's half way up the front wall, but rain delayed it from being finished yesterday. Besides the "shoulder" problem, he's supposed to slightly cheat the angle on the boards between the top of the garage door and the bottom of the upstairs window to minimize noticing the error with the header. I'm hoping the front will be done today.

gasstingy · 11-08-10, 07:35 AM

OK, I made a little more progress this weekend. We got the rear side door hung. I'm always jazzed when I can see progress at a casual glance instead of having to search out the progress.

Thought I'd show how we dealt with the door openings. First problem, the openings were far too coarse, so they needed some leveling. I don't happen to have a concrete grinder, at least not a machine designed for the job. My daughter suggested trying a broken concrete block as a "sanding block" of sorts and it worked! About 30 minutes per doorway of scraping back and forth to level the thresholds out a bit and we could proceed. I cut pieces of PVC 1X6's for the door to sit on and used about one third of a tube (just like a caulk tube) of liquid nails to secure them in place. In the third picture, it shows one piece installed. I would have sworn I had a picture after I put the second piece in, but...oops. The second piece went in and fit right to cover all the way to the back edge of the pink insulation. It looked like that was the plan all along.

Of course the insulation needed trimmed down a bit too, and the long side of a pointed trowel did an amazing job trimming it.

Then, we just inserted the prehung doorframe and shimmed and screwed it in. I have not put a doorknob on either door yet, since I don't have a garage door, I can't lock it anyway.

Picture four shows the progress on the front wall before the weather quit cooperating and picture five shows them almost finished on the back wall. The back wall was finished before they quit. They should be back on the job today to finish hanging the front wall and to finish the garage door opening. I'd also asked them to wrap the wood on the front and rear overhangs. When that is finished, it will be back to me.

Our next bit of effort will be to get the upstairs floor blocked {at least the first ten feet} so we can hang sheetrock for the first eight feet. When that is done, I can get a overhead door installed. Add doorknobs to the two entry doors and the building is able to be secured. And that is a good thing since I've just about run our savings out to get to this point.

The rest will have to be done slowly as the money comes along. That was always how we planned to do it.

Daox · 11-08-10, 07:40 AM

Wooo, nice updates. Its starting to look really good. My wife would love the colors you chose, she loves the old barn look.

gasstingy · 11-09-10, 07:54 AM

OK, we are officially out of money to buy materials for the barn to proceed.

We spent a bit more in labor for the front and back wall to be sided, plus Tommy wrapped the front and rear overhangs. He does pretty good work, too. I still need a little work on the overhead door opening and some sheetrock to be hung to be ready for a garage door.

We do have some supplies to continue working and we should have the money to get our garage door installed mid-December if we can get our part ready. Work that I can continue with includes caulking the work outside, doing the touchup painting, and getting rid of the scaffolding. Inside, I have boards to use for blocking the trusses before I hang sheetrock. I have 4 or 5pieces of 5/8" 4'x12' sheetrock from another building project that should do the front 8' of ceiling, full width. That would be enough to hang the overhead door.

We've had a lot of good help, and mostly free labor. I am very grateful and have no complaints.

09-20-10, 07:46 AM	#121
gasstingy Journeyman EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Arab, AL Posts: 491 Thanks: 109 Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts	Work progressed somewhat slower than I hoped again this weekend. The main point to that is that it did progress. Adam helped and we worked nearly all day Saturday. I put in some more time on Sunday, hanging some more metal edge on the overhangs and putting tar paper on the overhangs. The Hardiesoffit material gave me less trouble when I predrilled the holes, so in the first two pictures, I am drilling and nailing soffit on the north wall overhang with Adam helping. The last two pictures are of the rear overhang getting it's soffit hung. I didn't predrill any of that. I can tell you that if you're going to nail up soffit boards, you have to mark where all of the 2x's are. I just marked the inside of the fascia boards and top of the housewrap and tar paper. Besides getting the north and south overhang soffits finished (I did fill the gap on the end of the soffit showing in picture 3) and the rear soffit finished, I predrilled the siding I am going to hang on the north wall overhang. It will require some trim boards at both ends and a strip horizontally at the top, but it is moving along. Attached Thumbnails

09-20-10, 09:12 AM	#122
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Why are you putting tar paper on the overhangs? __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

09-20-10, 11:21 AM	#124
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Ah, yeah that makes sense. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

10-11-10, 07:48 AM	#125
gasstingy Journeyman EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Arab, AL Posts: 491 Thanks: 109 Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts	OK, it's taken way too long to make such little amounts of headway that it's embarrassing. I finally had enough help over the last two Saturdays to get the overhangs covered in siding and trimmed out. I found that I needed help to hang those big overhang boards. Adam helped the first weekend to get the three big boards up on the south overhang. When we hung them, we hadn't worked all the way through how to trim them out. This is what we did to make it work. First, we put HardieTrim on each end of the overhang, vertically. We came back and hung the 12' pieces of HardiePlank and then {midweek, between Saturdays} I put most of the PVC trim at the top, horizontally. It got too dark for me to measure the last piece, so I waited until the weekend. I jokingly refer to the PVC part as plastic wood. It is a PVC product, dimesioned like a 1x6 board {so 3/4" x 5 3/4"} with a wood grain texture added to one side. Since my overhang to be covered was more than 13" tall, my 12" siding wouldn't do the job. We hung the siding pieces so they covered the lower 12" and made trim pieces from the PVC boards. I started by ripping them in half length-wise. Next cut was to put an 8 degree bevel on the top so that any water that blew onto it would run down the face of the board. Then, I cut a 5/16" by ~1 3/4" notch out of the backside, the length of the board. This allowed the trim to lay flat over the siding, and it worked just fine. Jennifer came to help this past Saturday and we hung and caulked the entire north overhang and finished the trim on the south overhang and caulked it to. I got to say, I really like the way it turned out. Pictures below! Attached Thumbnails Last edited by gasstingy; 10-13-10 at 07:16 AM.. Reason: Add pictures

11-04-10, 09:41 AM	#126
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Any updates on the garage? __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

09-20-10, 10:15 AM	#123
gasstingy Journeyman EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Arab, AL Posts: 491 Thanks: 109 Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts	I put tar paper on the north & south overhangs because they are 13" +/- tall and I'll be putting siding (painted white) on them. The fascia boards (5 1/2" +/-) on the east & west ends will be wrapped in white aluminum. I think (no guarantees) that if I used aluminum, it would give the visual effect we called "oil canning" when I worked on aircraft. That's an appearance that looks sort of warped.

11-04-10, 11:19 AM	#127
gasstingy Journeyman EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Arab, AL Posts: 491 Thanks: 109 Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts	Thanks for checking up on me. I should have already posted more on the little bit of progress we've made. I'll try to gather some pictures up this weekend and post Monday. If you recall, I've struggled for quite some time trying to figure out how to keep from damaging the foam insulation that goes all the way around the inside perimeter of the building, and exposed in all but the drive-in door opening. I finally came up with a plan for the walk-in door openings and it worked! I'll describe it when I post the pictures of how we did it. I hung the front walk-in door hung last Sunday afternoon and the side walk-in door should go in this Saturday. It took more Hardie Plank to do the ends than I originally thought. I've bought 90 pieces so far and we ripped 1 into 1" wide strips, and painted the other 89. The 1" strips go all the way around the bottom edge of the building to create the appropriate angle on the bottom most plank. We painted 6 white for the overhang and 83 red for the walls. What I never outsmarted was correcting for my garage door opening. The sloped part of the drive-in door opening is not level side to side, so we don't have the header quite level {about an inch over 12 feet}. I also couldn't come up with a viable plan for getting past the buildings "shoulders," where the end walls go from being 24' wide to 27'6" wide on the trusses, so I hired a guy smarter than me to hang the siding on the front and back walls. {This also gives me my plank overlap, since I need to match the ends when I hang the sides.} Tuesday he finished the back wall and it looks good. He's half way up the front wall, but rain delayed it from being finished yesterday. Besides the "shoulder" problem, he's supposed to slightly cheat the angle on the boards between the top of the garage door and the bottom of the upstairs window to minimize noticing the error with the header. I'm hoping the front will be done today.

11-08-10, 07:35 AM	#128
gasstingy Journeyman EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Arab, AL Posts: 491 Thanks: 109 Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts	OK, I made a little more progress this weekend. We got the rear side door hung. I'm always jazzed when I can see progress at a casual glance instead of having to search out the progress. Thought I'd show how we dealt with the door openings. First problem, the openings were far too coarse, so they needed some leveling. I don't happen to have a concrete grinder, at least not a machine designed for the job. My daughter suggested trying a broken concrete block as a "sanding block" of sorts and it worked! About 30 minutes per doorway of scraping back and forth to level the thresholds out a bit and we could proceed. I cut pieces of PVC 1X6's for the door to sit on and used about one third of a tube (just like a caulk tube) of liquid nails to secure them in place. In the third picture, it shows one piece installed. I would have sworn I had a picture after I put the second piece in, but...oops. The second piece went in and fit right to cover all the way to the back edge of the pink insulation. It looked like that was the plan all along. Of course the insulation needed trimmed down a bit too, and the long side of a pointed trowel did an amazing job trimming it. Then, we just inserted the prehung doorframe and shimmed and screwed it in. I have not put a doorknob on either door yet, since I don't have a garage door, I can't lock it anyway. Picture four shows the progress on the front wall before the weather quit cooperating and picture five shows them almost finished on the back wall. The back wall was finished before they quit. They should be back on the job today to finish hanging the front wall and to finish the garage door opening. I'd also asked them to wrap the wood on the front and rear overhangs. When that is finished, it will be back to me. Our next bit of effort will be to get the upstairs floor blocked {at least the first ten feet} so we can hang sheetrock for the first eight feet. When that is done, I can get a overhead door installed. Add doorknobs to the two entry doors and the building is able to be secured. And that is a good thing since I've just about run our savings out to get to this point. The rest will have to be done slowly as the money comes along. That was always how we planned to do it. Attached Thumbnails

11-08-10, 07:40 AM	#129
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Wooo, nice updates. Its starting to look really good. My wife would love the colors you chose, she loves the old barn look. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

11-09-10, 07:54 AM	#130
gasstingy Journeyman EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Arab, AL Posts: 491 Thanks: 109 Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts	OK, we are officially out of money to buy materials for the barn to proceed. We spent a bit more in labor for the front and back wall to be sided, plus Tommy wrapped the front and rear overhangs. He does pretty good work, too. I still need a little work on the overhead door opening and some sheetrock to be hung to be ready for a garage door. We do have some supplies to continue working and we should have the money to get our garage door installed mid-December if we can get our part ready. Work that I can continue with includes caulking the work outside, doing the touchup painting, and getting rid of the scaffolding. Inside, I have boards to use for blocking the trusses before I hang sheetrock. I have 4 or 5pieces of 5/8" 4'x12' sheetrock from another building project that should do the front 8' of ceiling, full width. That would be enough to hang the overhead door. We've had a lot of good help, and mostly free labor. I am very grateful and have no complaints.