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Old 09-08-16, 01:46 PM   #21
Xringer
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Default This 25' line set seems like it's 35 feet.. Too long..

My wife thinks the old Sanyo IDU's look better..

Flare inspection was disappointing. I haven't made a lot of flares,
but I think that I could have done a better job on the 1/4" connections..
The 5/8 flares didn't impress me much either.
I've seen better.. But I've only purchased two linesets before..

The 1/4" started hissing at 50 psi.. So, I turned it down some more.. Actually twice, before it stopped.

It's been just above 200 PSI for the last 2 hours. I've not put the ladder back up,
to perform the bubble test.. Yet.. I might just let this 200 PSI sit overnight..
Go back to work in the AM.. This afternoon, I can do the wiring..

The lineset is so long, it's taking up a lot of room behind the ODU..
Not liking this long line set..

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Old 09-08-16, 01:55 PM   #22
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I would not use that flare. It looks really bad. I would cut it off and redo it.
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Old 09-08-16, 04:53 PM   #23
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Both ends of the 1/4" Looked like that. A rolled flair 'Cheerio'?
Seems like when you install it, you make the flair with your wrench..
I think could feel the copper flowing inside the connector.
It went almost 4 hours without any loss.. Stayed right at 202 PSI..
I'm trying a vac run right now. My hoses leak a bit..
Left the system idle during supper, shut off the pump..
1/2 hour later, the system was still at 400 microns..
Takes a long time to get this big stuff down.. Maybe I need to re-flair?

Edit:
Once I had a stable 200 microns and was able to let it sit for a half hour and come back
and turn on the pump again and be right back at 200 microns in a few minutes..
(Get a pulse up because the cut-off leaks when turned)!

I decided to release some gas into the system. Do some more bubble tests later.
Opened the small (liquid) valve for a few seconds, turned it off.
Attempted to open the large low-side valve, and it's stuck!
Can't get it open! It takes a 5MM allen. I'm using a 5 CR-V and it's flexing, big time.

I have a Right-Angle Impact Driver, but no 5MM bits..
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-1.../dp/B00436U5GG

Break-free? Any suggestions?
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Old 09-08-16, 07:30 PM   #24
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Shot some liquid wrench into it and whacked fat bass rod into it with a plastic hammer..
Hoping it might be more cooperative tomorrow..
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Old 09-08-16, 08:01 PM   #25
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bummer.

This is what I use and quick hit on the ratchet might do the trick
Husky 3/8 in. Drive 5 mm Hex Bit Socket-H3DHBS5MM - The Home Depot

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Old 09-08-16, 09:21 PM   #26
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Default Thanks.. Maybe tonight I'll be able to sleep!

Low cost, But "Bit is made from shock resisting S2 tool steel (not for use with impact drivers)"

I was thinking my Sears impact driver might work.. Maybe as a last resort?

What do you think of this Sears 5mm?
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5mm-h...p-00942675000P

The Sears store is only about 3 miles from here. Quick Easy drive..
But the Home Depot stores require a little road trip.. Route 128 traffic..
Both of my local HD stores say they have 2 in stock..
Sometimes, that means they have none in stock..

Please explain a "quick hit on the ratchet". Do you mean a quick yank on the handle, like when steady pressure doesn't get the oil pan plug out?
But, a very quick yank on the handle works wonders?
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Old 09-08-16, 09:32 PM   #27
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I would think the Sears is better quality. I just picked HD because most people have one close by.

I have a no name set and a set from sears both have done well.

When steady pressure does not work a quick hit with one hand as you are holding it tight on with the other hand will sometimes get it off.

But an impact ratchet works better than that. It is that quick hit the impact driver gives out gets it loose.
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Old 09-08-16, 09:53 PM   #28
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Thank you my friend! I'm going to Sears in the morning!
Good night,
Rich
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Old 09-09-16, 12:10 AM   #29
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Default

I agree with pinball, that flare looks like a chewed up straw. Bad angle, ugly deburr, no bueno. If you choose to use it, at least you know where to look when things go south..

A proper double flare looks like the examples on the left in this photo:

The bends on the right might work with a little (or a lot) of finesse, oil and wrench work. If I was a fridge tech in a hurry, MAYBE I wouldn't redo the bends and push my luck. But I would definitely be happier with properly bent ends. Especially with a brand new unit.
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Old 09-09-16, 08:14 AM   #30
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I had automotive heater hose left over from another project . Used it for a drain hose on both of our MS's . But the factory hose was long enough to connect on the opposite side of the wall ( through the 3" hole ) .

I slipped one hose over the other and used a screw clamp . Then black electrical tape over it all .

I agree , those flares look terrible ! :-( On both of my installs , I used 50' rolls of Mueller cut to length .

I would cut them all off and re-flare them ( be sure to put the flare nuts on the tubing before you do the new flares ) .

I obsessed about having the " correct " flare tool , about the angles and such . I cut some short pieces of copper and did some practicing . The better ones , I smeared with Nylog Blue and tightened down on the ends of the IDU pipes .

On a decent flare , the copper was soft enough to conform the the harder brass fittings . I think the Nylog Blue helped this , also .

I ended up using a Craftsman flare tool I had purchased 30 - 40 years ago .

On the stuck service valve I would use the ratchet & hex socket . Put firm , even , steady force on the ratchet handle . ( You may have to hold the body of the service valve with another tool . ) If that does not help ask your assistant to rep the ratchet handle sharply with a small hammer or something .

Please let us know how this turns out .

God bless
Wyr

PS I would not release refrigerant until you resolve the flares to your satisfaction .


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