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Old 11-13-11, 08:38 AM   #21
stefanc
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The slider is our only access out to the back yard so I can't go too crazy blocking it with plastic but I could do one side I guess. The 3 season room won't be used but it is insulated to a degree. I don't feel much cold through the slider to be honest.

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Old 11-13-11, 09:45 AM   #22
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I'll bet you that sliding door has an R-factor of about 3, at the most..
Since it's big, that adds up to a lot of heat loss.

I'm pretty sure I can add film to my slider, without effecting it's operation.
The reasons I don't want to put in on the right side, is the handle is there.
And, I'll be grabbing the plastic every time I reach for the handle..
The other reason is the view will be affected by the plastic..

Might be a good Sunday DIY project..
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Old 11-13-11, 06:55 PM   #23
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I'm sure it is losing a bit of heat. the plastic would probably get knocked off by the weather stripping everytime it opens. I could put it on the outside since it wont be exposed to weather.


Picked up a woodstove today! It's a Fireview soapstone stove and I should be able to use it as primary heat and only use 3-4 cords of wood per year because of its efficiency.
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Old 11-13-11, 07:36 PM   #24
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Nice!! I used to burn some solid fuel, before I got old and lazy.. (or lazier).

I think taping down some film to the outside of your slider is a good idea.
I looked at the outside of mine today. And I'm thinking that might be a lot easier to work on.

I've got some of the clearer plastic still left on the rolls, so maybe I'll
just try hanging some on the outside. See if it can handle the snow & ice..
It would be a good durability test of the product.

Heck, if I put some on the inside and the outside, I would end up with three layers of air insulation!!

Right now, I'm about out of tape.. I like the 'Frost King 2" x 100' Clear Plastic Seal Tape' from Lowes. I use it sparingly, since it's $8 a roll..
It's good stuff, sticks pretty well in low temperatures.
Very thick, heavy duty tape.
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Old 11-14-11, 07:08 PM   #25
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Sounds like a perfect application for multi-splits! And if you need a new roof sometime add foam board insulation with foil both sides under new roofing. Otherwise, perhaps add a little more blow in insulation in the attic. Also do the diy blower-door test using all exhaust fans in the house, and check for air leaks with a wet had or smoke stick.
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Old 11-14-11, 07:41 PM   #26
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Gary at builditsolar has a good solution if you don't need to be able to see out your sliding door...

Insulating a Sliding Glass Door
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Old 11-14-11, 08:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xringer View Post
I'll bet you that sliding door has an R-factor of about 3, at the most..
I would wager all I own that the R value is less than 1 or even .5 when air leakage is considered. Most are usually closer to 0. An R value of 3 is pretty good for a window.
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Old 11-14-11, 09:28 PM   #28
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The Efficient Windows Collaborative: Resources

Yeah, replacement windows around here have a 0.30 U-Factor these days..
1 / 0.30 = R-factor of 3.33
I figure the best sliding glass door might be near an R3..

I'll bet 60 to 80% of the heating cost in the fancy new houses around here,
comes from their thousands of sq feet of windows..
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Old 01-01-12, 08:32 AM   #29
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So far I have the woodstove installed and a few of the indoor screens finished. The woodstove alone is saving me ~40kwh/day when the outdoor temp is below 30!

Although the stove heats the whole house pretty well, we need to close doors on the second floor at night sometimes because of the kids, so the resistance heat ends up coming on. I really need to get the indoor storms finished up there to help hold the heat in.

I'll update with pictures and some data soon.
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Old 01-01-12, 08:34 AM   #30
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Another thing I noticed when installing the woodstove- There's no insulation (spray-foam or loose fill) behind the window trim between the rough framing and window. That's definitely going to be addressed very soon also.

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