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Old 11-06-17, 08:59 PM   #81
nokiasixteth
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http://www.energy.ca.gov/reports/200...500-01-020.PDF

Anyone looking for this stuff heres another page that helps out a good bit.

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Old 11-06-17, 09:13 PM   #82
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So yours basically rest inside a custom made holder (not conduit) you made on your roof to the junction box then from the box out to the meter it is conduit ?
Between the roof and the attic is routed down through a small weatherhead like electric power entrances into a building usually use. That leaves a drip loop and a method to go through the roof. I come into the custom panel in the attic in conduit, then leave the custom panel in 10/3+G UF (yes, underground feeder). I chose the UF cable because it carries 90°C insulation ratings, and because you can generally run it just like Romex. It was rather interesting snaking a double run of 10/3+G down from the second floor attic.

Once I get down into the first floor wall, my wire is run in a wiring chase above the electrical panel, then just passing through the interior breaker panel, then in conduit out the wall to the exterior breaker panel (again, just passing through), then over to the PV combiner panel via conduit. From the combiner panel, I'm in some 6AWG stranded individual conductors back through the conduit with the UF wire to get to the exterior breaker panel which is also the service entrance/meter box. My electric service is actually fed underground through the backyard and up into the exterior meter panel/service entrance/breaker box. The residence service entrance 150A disconnect is on the outside of the house, where the fire department can use it. The PV disconnect is adjacent to the service entrance box, and clearly labeled with reflectorized decals.

It's a somewhat convoluted route, but it saved me hanging more exterior conduit on the house just for a wire chase.
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Old 11-10-17, 06:34 AM   #83
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So for roofing conduit . Is there any code or anything that says that the conduit must be a certain type . And from row to row do you run it on the panel or do you run that through conduit down. Does anyone have any pics of the portion before panels are put down ?
Im trying to get a rough idea of what i need to do to get ever thing right. Already have some 1 inch conduit i can use for the wall of the house . Just ant sure what to use for the roof portion and where needs to have the conduit and type
My electrical inspector required me to put the lines going to the inverter from the modules in metal pipe. The lines connecting each module could be open wire though. You'll have to check with the inspection agency in your area to see what they require.

You also need a way to shut the modules down in case of a fire. My electric provider required me to give them a simple drawing showing the master shut off. It had to be in a location they could reach from outside the house. They also timed my power up after a grid power failure. In NY it has to be 5 minutes after the grid power returns before your system starts sending power out to the grid.

Things may be different in your area but checking might save you a lot of headaches down the road.

Rob
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Old 11-18-17, 04:09 PM   #84
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Default Got th panels and optomIzers done

I finally got em up. I knew my shop was not level or square . But it is worse than I figured . Good part is they are up .
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Old 11-18-17, 05:25 PM   #85
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Looks great up!

Being perfectly square and level is way over rated.
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Old 11-18-17, 07:26 PM   #86
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Being perfectly square and level is way over rated.
Being Accurately Square and Level is Not Over-Rated in my daily line of work. I'm paid a reasonable sum for providing both to my clients, that's what paid of the PV on my roof.

Back on the panel install, if it works for you, that's what matters. The panels honestly don't care, as long as you're not stressing them trying to twist them.
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Old 11-19-17, 06:36 AM   #87
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Looks great up!

Being perfectly square and level is way over rated.
Good job!
A couple of things. In the future split your modules in two adjoining rows. You only need a foot or two between the rows. If you have to change a module ( I had a Bosch module go bad on me) or an optomiser you can get to it without climbing over modules.

The other thing is to use SolarEdges site and label all your modules and optomisers so if one fails you can go right to it like I did.

These modules aren't the best orientation as they face east/west but I still get plenty of watts from them. The important thing is that I know where each optomiser is. I set up the layout on SolarEdge's sight. If you click on a module it tells you the optomiser # and module. (see illustration)
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Old 11-21-17, 07:04 AM   #88
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I would have put a bit more seperation . But i was working with limited space on the roof . If my inverter would have let me do more per string i would have made it 24 instead of 22. Ive gave that some thought . Yeah. The stickers i have on a notebook . I had 3 up by time i remembered about the stickers . Thats fun trying to dig under the panells after the sticker.
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Old 11-21-17, 09:05 AM   #89
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I would have put a bit more seperation . But i was working with limited space on the roof . If my inverter would have let me do more per string i would have made it 24 instead of 22. Ive gave that some thought . Yeah. The stickers i have on a notebook . I had 3 up by time i remembered about the stickers . Thats fun trying to dig under the panells after the sticker.
I did the same thing! I wound up with a mirror on a stick reading the numbers off the optomisers so I could record them!
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Old 11-21-17, 10:13 AM   #90
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Enphase has an installer android app for your phone. You just pick the array and scan the barcodes on the microinverters it updates them all for you very simple.
http://www.enphase.com/sites/default..._manual_EN.pdf

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