Using attic heat for the house - Page 6

Daox · 10-25-10, 10:48 AM

I have no air retun in mind yet. Its not a bad idea, but I think my house is leaky enough that it'll just vent outside.

Daox · 10-25-10, 02:07 PM

I just looked over my arduino code. It was mostly still there since I had started my DIY thermal differential controller from before. I made a few small tweaks and also added some data logging (how long the fan is has been on). As I'm thinking now, temperature logging would be nice to see as well. I'll have to add that, but other than that it is pretty much ready to go.

I also found some LM35DZ-ND temperature sensors that should work very nicely with this setup. I just need to figure out all the venting and wire it up.

benpope · 10-25-10, 05:03 PM

If you are going to go to the trouble to build a box and snorkel, you may want to get a HEPA filter to keep out dust.

strider3700 · 10-25-10, 08:09 PM

I'd definitely filter any air you're pulling out of your attic space into the house. Even if you're not up their stirring things up you'll be amazed how much dust those fans will pull out of there.

Daox · 10-25-10, 09:13 PM

I'll find some way to get a furnace filter fitted to it. It sounds like putting them in a box will probably be the easiest way to do this.

In the mean time, I picked up two 4" dryer vent draft blockers. These should do for preventing air movement when the fans are off.

Daox · 10-26-10, 07:29 AM

Alright, here is a rough picture of what I was thinking of. I am very much open to suggestions. I'd really love to simplify it, but I'm not sure how without sacrificing functionality and ease of building. Also, the flapper vents would seal better if they were oriented vertically (90 degrees rotated from how they are in my picture), but the air can only flow upwards then (so gravity holds it closed).

Daox · 10-28-10, 07:15 AM

Bumping since the forum is back up!

Daox · 10-30-10, 06:31 PM

Well, I'm still forging ahead. Today I made a frame for the chimney top. Pretty basic, just some 2x4s screwed and glued (to seal) together.

Once it was made, I brought it up to the attic and glued it down with construction adhesive.

I knew about this when I made the frame, but I figured I would just shift it over since it is wide enough, and that exactly what I did. There is ~3/8" gap between my water heater flue and the wood. I'll have to probably make another small frame to go around the other side so I can seal it off.

Patrick · 10-30-10, 06:55 PM

How hot does the flue get? You probably don't want wood touching it unless it is the double-wall type.

Daox · 10-31-10, 09:29 AM

I don't think the flue gets real warm that high up, but it is only single wall. This is the attic of a 2 story house and the water heater is in the basement, so its really 3 floors up. However, I will be using metal flashing to get close to the flue, and then using silicon to seal around it like you are supposed to do.

10-25-10, 10:48 AM	#51
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	I have no air retun in mind yet. Its not a bad idea, but I think my house is leaky enough that it'll just vent outside. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

10-25-10, 02:07 PM	#52
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	I just looked over my arduino code. It was mostly still there since I had started my DIY thermal differential controller from before. I made a few small tweaks and also added some data logging (how long the fan is has been on). As I'm thinking now, temperature logging would be nice to see as well. I'll have to add that, but other than that it is pretty much ready to go. I also found some LM35DZ-ND temperature sensors that should work very nicely with this setup. I just need to figure out all the venting and wire it up. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Daox; 10-25-10 at 02:10 PM..

10-25-10, 09:13 PM	#55
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	I'll find some way to get a furnace filter fitted to it. It sounds like putting them in a box will probably be the easiest way to do this. In the mean time, I picked up two 4" dryer vent draft blockers. These should do for preventing air movement when the fans are off. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

10-26-10, 07:29 AM	#56
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Alright, here is a rough picture of what I was thinking of. I am very much open to suggestions. I'd really love to simplify it, but I'm not sure how without sacrificing functionality and ease of building. Also, the flapper vents would seal better if they were oriented vertically (90 degrees rotated from how they are in my picture), but the air can only flow upwards then (so gravity holds it closed). Attached Thumbnails __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

10-28-10, 07:15 AM	#57
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Bumping since the forum is back up! __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

10-25-10, 05:03 PM	#53
benpope Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Posts: 95 Thanks: 16 Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts	If you are going to go to the trouble to build a box and snorkel, you may want to get a HEPA filter to keep out dust.

10-25-10, 08:09 PM	#54
strider3700 Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Vancouver Island BC Posts: 745 Thanks: 23 Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts	I'd definitely filter any air you're pulling out of your attic space into the house. Even if you're not up their stirring things up you'll be amazed how much dust those fans will pull out of there.

10-30-10, 06:31 PM	#58
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Well, I'm still forging ahead. Today I made a frame for the chimney top. Pretty basic, just some 2x4s screwed and glued (to seal) together. Once it was made, I brought it up to the attic and glued it down with construction adhesive. I knew about this when I made the frame, but I figured I would just shift it over since it is wide enough, and that exactly what I did. There is ~3/8" gap between my water heater flue and the wood. I'll have to probably make another small frame to go around the other side so I can seal it off. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

10-30-10, 06:55 PM	#59
Patrick Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: East Coast of Florida, USA Posts: 149 Thanks: 2 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	How hot does the flue get? You probably don't want wood touching it unless it is the double-wall type.

10-31-10, 09:29 AM	#60
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	I don't think the flue gets real warm that high up, but it is only single wall. This is the attic of a 2 story house and the water heater is in the basement, so its really 3 floors up. However, I will be using metal flashing to get close to the flue, and then using silicon to seal around it like you are supposed to do. __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.