01-15-14, 07:24 PM | #1 |
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Frost King r10 water heater wrap review.
So I just installed a tank wrap on my tank. First off instructions are not exactly clear. I ended up cutting part of it off and taping it back. And now that it's installed, the top and bottom have insulation hanging out. I'm not impressed. Maybe they could have included a strip of tape for the top and bottom. GA power is going to fully reimburse me for it, so that's a plus. I'm glad I wrapped, but I need to find a solution to the loose fiberglass. Frost King Water Heater Blanket SP57/11C
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In it for the money (savings) Last edited by Daox; 02-11-14 at 03:19 PM.. |
01-15-14, 10:09 PM | #2 |
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I would use tuck tape and tape some plastic sheet (white) over it making sure to seal all the joints.
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03-13-14, 09:06 PM | #3 |
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Glad you bought that and not the bubble wrap...
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03-16-14, 05:27 PM | #4 |
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Bubble wrap?
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03-16-14, 08:04 PM | #5 |
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Aluminum reflective bubble wrap 'insulation'. A product that some people put on hot water tanks thinking they are enhancing its insulation when the insulating value and energy loss benefit of such products is extremely low. A fraction of an R-value point. The fiberglass insulation products are about the best you can use because using foam on a water heater isn't practical or cheap(think aluminum coil flashing and multiple cans of Great Stuff or something similar). The fiberglass is sufficient because it traps the air flow behind an air barrier and if taped properly will add a decent amount of insulation.
With that being said, the longer the warranty on a water heater, usually the more insulation and better air baffling used inside the center tube flue you get(if it is a natural draft nat. gas heater). When I replaced a leaking 1990 builder's grade(cheap) hot water tank, I had to remove the insulation, burners, valves, and gas controls from it before they would take it. Those were barely insulated, probably 2 inches of fiberglass. Now they are usually 2 or 3 inches of foam. You get benefit from both new and older less insulated tanks but they are better today than they used to be. |
03-16-14, 10:27 PM | #6 |
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So this stuff here, EZ-Cool sold through Lo Buc Rod is the bubble wrap you don't care for? Supposedly it's got an R value of 7 directly wrapped on the hot water pipe. I had to compromise on my water heater and go with a basic A & O Smith with a piddling .59 or so efficiency rating so any way to improve its efficiency short of throwing it out and buying something else would be appreciated.
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03-17-14, 08:09 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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03-17-14, 08:29 PM | #8 |
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Bummer! That denim insulation any good for someone that doesn't want the fiberglass itches?
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03-18-14, 01:20 AM | #9 |
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The denim is decent, although not ideal. Definitely better than the unrated, may I suggest potentially 'fraud R7'. Fiberglass is not that bad though, wear latex gloves when handling it, throw the latex gloves in the trash and be sure to tape up the new water heater envelope and this won't be an issue. Seriously, I freaked about the whole 'fiberglass itch' thing too and when I actually dealt it a few times, I realized it wasn't anything more than a slight annoyance even when I was careless the second time. If you are seriously scared of a minor itch for a few hours, just cover yourself with seran wrap or some other plastic taped on to you so you don't come in contact with the fiberglass. I'm not really convinced this is an issue. I wouldn't blow this garbage into an attic but it seems to be the best option for things like auxiliary insulation to a water heater with the insulating wrap.
If you really don't want to use fiberglass, use rock wool instead. IMHO, cotton insulation is a bit of an expensive joke. |
03-18-14, 06:11 AM | #10 |
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Haha (see above).
I've insulated a lot of houses in the 80s with fibreglas and I hate it. I will use Roxul (rockwool) now but I know some people who dislike that more than glass so to each, their own, I guess. The denim is good stuff but it is expensive |
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