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Old 10-05-13, 12:13 PM   #351
Xringer
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LOL! My wife got a kick out of that..

PS: It's nice to have that extra cut-off switch on your burner. It allows you to safely do maintenance.
Or, just shut off the burner when you are leaving for a few days.

I've actually gone over and turned the burner off when I was working down in the basement. (noisy).
But then forgetting to turn it back on!

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Old 10-06-13, 09:19 AM   #352
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Installed the outlet at the end of the circulator feed and installed plug on the circulator. Seems to work OK. I blew a 5 amp fuse on the Taco relay controller when I was setting the tank t stat, turning the a7 on and off a number off times. Put a new fuse in and it seems to work fine if I don't turn on and off too quickly. Today I will install the switch on the boiler.
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Old 10-06-13, 10:53 AM   #353
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Default Hey!

Don't be turning the A7 off and on too much.
Wait at least 5 or 10 minutes before each turn-on.
Not good for the compressor (makes it draw too many amps apparently).

If you want to tweak the T-stat or check the switching, plug a work light into the socket. (in place of the A7).

If the fuse is for the A7, it should be at least 10A. If it's a fast-blow, 20A..
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Old 10-06-13, 11:05 AM   #354
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Is it OK to up size the fuse in the Taco relay?
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Old 10-06-13, 11:14 AM   #355
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No real sure. I've never seen one with a fuse.. My stuff is old..
Can you check the specs of the box?

If that small fuse was to prevent a 'locked rotor' meltdown..
Might be best not to use the pump motor with a larger amperage fuse, just in case.
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Old 10-06-13, 01:06 PM   #356
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Got the burner switch on and everything seems to be working. The a7 is bringing the water up to temp. Fuse is holding. Must have been the repeated on and off that blew it.
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Old 10-06-13, 03:20 PM   #357
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Default 8Amps means you need a 10A fuse..

I think this is your label..

Rated current is 8.6A
Minimum Circuit Amps or Minimum Circuit Ampacity (MCA) 7.5 Amps
Maximum Overcurrent Protection (MOP) 13.7A

The minimum is 7.5A and the Max is 13.7A
I would step that fuse up to at least 10A..
If that's the only load on the fuse..



Here's mine.. (Old model).



If the burner is supplied by a 15A breaker and you pull 8 or 9A out with
the A7, you must have the burner disabled, or the combination will pop
the 15A breaker..
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Old 10-06-13, 04:02 PM   #358
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Default SSR wiring

In case anyone is interested in using SSRs..
Basic diagram for controlling a 120vac heat pump (or other gizmo).

Be sure to run the ground pin (green) and white wire(netural) directly from socket to plug.
Observe the polarity + & - of the DC supply with connecting to the SSR.
The SSR should be mounted on metal, with heatsink compound under it. (Radio Shack).


If you want to run your T-stat using low voltage DC, just plug in the wallwart into a 24/7 outlet.
And use the T-stat to break the current flow in one of the DC lines.

If I use this setup, I'll might plug the Wallwart into an X10 module.. (I like X10 stuff).

Right now, I'm using an X10 to control the A7 directly.. Since I don't need a full 15A for the A7..
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Old 10-09-13, 11:26 AM   #359
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I forgot to ask you another question.
When I turned the a7 back on to test I touched the copper tubing to see if it was hot. I got a little zap. Do you think this is from the t stat shorting out? Maybe I touched the tube going to the bulb? Is this dangerous?
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Old 10-09-13, 12:58 PM   #360
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Is your plug a GFI type? It's built in my old A7.. Should protect from internal shorts.
Press the Test button to make sure it's working..

Could it have been a normal static discharge? Because that tubing should be grounded via the 3pin outlet.

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