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Old 12-09-14, 10:29 AM   #11
Daox
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Any updates on this Ecomodded?

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Old 12-12-14, 01:45 PM   #12
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The condenser is off I am having reservation with using the dehumifier for the project as the dehumidifier is working fine and I don't want to kill it , in the DIY heat pump.
I now want to use a more suitable compressor from a salvaged unit such as free or 10 - $20 bucks. I payed $150 for the dehumidifier I think I will keep it as is and working I do use it on occasion.

So the Plan is to find a larger Compressor to use , one thats a better match to the cars condenser size which is large 20x30 inches which is large when compared to the dehumidifiers current 10x12" condenser.

Bare with me on this one , I am absolutely Slow at completing my projects, currently I have 3 projects sharing my time and funds with although I tend to get one done at a time I often start 3 or 4 projects to keep the boredom away.
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Old 12-12-14, 02:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecomodded View Post
The condenser is off I am having reservation with using the dehumifier for the project as the dehumidifier is working fine and I don't want to kill it , in the DIY heat pump.
I now want to use a more suitable compressor from a salvaged unit such as free or 10 - $20 bucks. I payed $150 for the dehumidifier I think I will keep it as is and working I do use it on occasion.

So the Plan is to find a larger Compressor to use , one thats a better match to the cars condenser size which is large 20x30 inches which is large when compared to the dehumidifiers current 10x12" condenser.

Bare with me on this one , I am absolutely Slow at completing my projects, currently I have 3 projects sharing my time and funds with although I tend to get one done at a time I often start 3 or 4 projects to keep the boredom away.
First off, you can't compare condenser capacity by external dimensions. There are just too many factors to mention. Also, keep in mind that the designers expected the car condenser to be in a 60 mph wind, which is very hard to duplicate with a small electric fan.

I've lost track of what you even want to build, but this time of year, you should be able to find an abundance of air conditioners of all sizes for very little money. They come with matching compressors, metering devices, and heat exchangers... all just begging to be hacked.

-AC
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Old 12-12-14, 05:00 PM   #14
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You have to remember a cars AC is designed to operate at a stand still , for extended periods of time in the worst possible conditions. They use Fans just like conventional AC units, although when up to speed the Fans are not *usually* required. I assume the Cars AC to be at least 10,000 Btu's where as my dehumidifier is 5000 Btu's its a small unit.


I will find a more suitable compressor , Right now drywall is going up over Plywood covered walls in the basement so its sucking my money and time / energy.
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Old 12-16-14, 05:40 AM   #15
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134a is not that expensive & I doubt your new system will require that much . And if the old dehumidifier used 134a , staying with it avoids problems with comparability between different refrigeration oils .

God bless
Wyr


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thanks for the well wishes AC_Hacker

I am thinking if not hoping the dehumidifiers low power compressor combined with the car's large condenser will help elevate frost build up.
I will look deeper into the reversing valve and frost thermostat and employ them to defrost in cold weather.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

A few questions I have off the top of my hat are:

Once its built can I pressure test my brazing with compressed air ?.. since its just a cheapo system..

What *affordable* refrigerant can I use , if any, in place of the R134a used by dehumidifier's compressor currently ?

Compressor # LG NR58HAQG

Motor type : RSIR, PTC
Displacement : 58
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Old 12-16-14, 12:51 PM   #16
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Food for thought Wyrtwister , I know next to nothing about refrigerants , are you being cautious or is this a educated guess ?
I like the Price of canned air and watched a few videos of it in action , by all accounts it works great

If your on to something I could use the canned air for leak testing (and Proof of concept ? ) before I spend real money on R123a or what ever refrigerant the New to me compressor uses.

I have a kit for refilling automotive AC that should work for me if I braze on a matching port for filling.
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Old 12-16-14, 05:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecomodded View Post
Food for thought Wyrtwister , I know next to nothing about refrigerants , are you being cautious or is this a educated guess ?
I like the Price of canned air and watched a few videos of it in action , by all accounts it works great

If your on to something I could use the canned air for leak testing (and Proof of concept ? ) before I spend real money on R123a or what ever refrigerant the New to me compressor uses.

I have a kit for refilling automotive AC that should work for me if I braze on a matching port for filling.
Last time I checked ( this last summer ) a 12 or 14 ounce can of R134a at WallyWorld was less than $ 10 , not including state sales tax . But I have not purchased any in a year or two . I bought a 25 or 30 pound jug .

R12 and R22 used mineral oil ( a petroleum product , I am pretty sure ) . I do not know if they used the same oil or different formulations ?

R134a uses PAG oil or POE oil . Both of these are synthetic oils .

R410a ( household A/C and other applications ) use POE oil or another that I can not remember right now . Both of these are synthetic oils .

I am told , if you mix mineral and synthetic , they do not play well with each other . I am not sure , at all if you can mix the synthetics . Compressors are not cheap , so I do not want to take the chance .

I do not know the price of the dust off spray , but I would not use it .

I would use the refrigerant and oil the compressor was made for . Or , at least , what it originally came with .

Remember , keep everything CLEAN . And , all refrigeration oil absorbs moisture from the air , if you let it come in contact with air . I think the synthetics are much worse about absorbing moisture . ( Moisture is the enemy of refrigeration systems .)

This is one of the things filter dryers are for . Vacuum the system down to a very low vacuum & shut the valves off . Come back a couple of hours latter . Or come back a day latter . If the vacuum has not leaked down , you have a good chance you have no leaks . But this is not conclusive .

To leak test , put enough dry nitrogen in to equal the " normal " low side operating pressure for the refrigerant you will be using . You can use soapy water in a spray bottle to find / track down leaks . Look for bubbles .

God bless
Wyr
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Old 12-16-14, 05:33 PM   #18
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I love ironing out the details , at first everything seems so straight forward until you Delve into it and find all sorts of issues for improvements / best methods.

Its much cheaper to make your mistakes and corrections on paper !

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