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Old 02-27-14, 06:22 PM   #11
Fordguy64
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Well I got it and it does look brand new!! Ill get some pictures and what not tomorrow.. And the best part? I got it for 425$


Last edited by Fordguy64; 02-28-14 at 05:50 AM.. Reason: A few typos
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Old 02-28-14, 08:11 AM   #12
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Just the parts are worth FAR more than that. Check the plate on the compressor and see what it says for voltage. It may be that it is a 220-240 V compressor after all.

You got an incredible deal!

Steve
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Old 02-28-14, 04:44 PM   #13
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well it even looks brand new on the inside!!!
and going by the voltage info on the compressor it should run just fine of 240???

i cant get a very good picture of the coax heat exchanger its buried in the back of the unit but it looks to be pretty large..

does anyone want any specific photos or info on any of the parts while i have it apart???













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Old 02-28-14, 05:26 PM   #14
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It looks like it's rated to work on 240V at 50Hz. Just check the amperage and it's fine if it stays within specifications.
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Old 02-28-14, 07:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordguy64 View Post
...i cant get a very good picture of the coax heat exchanger its buried in the back of the unit but it looks to be pretty large...[/IMG]
Your Copeland Scroll Compressor is worth what you paid for the whole box!

I'm really interested in what the coaxial HXs look like. If there's any way that you can snake your hand back in there and just snap away blind, you're bound to come up with a few good pix.

I don't know how you want to use this, but if you are intending to put it in your house, you should know that heat pumps like yours, that distribute their heat via central air ducts, have a coil temperature that is substantially lower (120F-ish) than gas or oil fired heat (140F to 160F)... it's just the nature of the beast. Because of this, they need to have air running much more frequently (sometimes almost constantly) and also the volume of air needs to be greater.

A lot of conversions from oil-fired to heat pump central air do not install larger ducts to allow larger volumes of air to circulate quietly (the companies don't want to lose the bid), therefore there is air duct background noise almost all the time.

This happened to my girlfriend, but she paid so much money for the system and installation, she just pretends the noise isn't there... but the noise is there, almost all the time.

So, if you haven't already installed ducts, you should install over-sized ducts, and over sized vents.

I'm not a HVAC guy and I can't specify how much bigger your ducts & vents need to be, but I do know that this is an issue.

There is a very similar issue with hydronic heating... oil & gas fired boilers easily produce high temperatures (140F to 160F), and the hydronic industry has adopted practices adapted to the high boiler heat.

But heat pump hydronic heaters will not reach the same high temperatures (around 120F) so to work really well, different practices need to be used (larger PEX, closer PEX spacings, higher flow rates).

Why go to all this hassle?

Because heat pump heating is very much cheaper than either gas or oil.

Best,

-AC
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Old 02-28-14, 09:35 PM   #16
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that is very good info ac.. ill be sure to look into the larger duct work when or if i end up using this unit for my house. that is the plan at the moment tho so we will see what happens. i currently have a 1980's? natural gas forced air unit and i was planning on replacing most of the duct work as a remodeled the basement..

and if you look at the 5th picture down (the one with the txv) you can see some of the coax heat x in the back
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Old 03-01-14, 09:07 AM   #17
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ac these are about the best pictures i can get of the coax i put my hand behind it for reference and if you want the part number i can get it







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Old 03-01-14, 12:51 PM   #18
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Super cool! You def. got your money's worth, even if it needs work to get running. Someone must have REALLY not wanted this thing.
Is it charged up and all? Just plug and play?
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Old 03-01-14, 01:42 PM   #19
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As far as I know it's charged and ready to run.. Ill hopefully find out tomorrow
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Old 03-01-14, 05:36 PM   #20
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As you fire it up, monitor both the current and voltage going in. Water from a hose bib, connected via hose to and from unit can be used for this test.

Have you downloaded the installation manual? It is helpful to set the DIP switches to rapid cycle so there is not the usual delays during testing.

I bet it will work just fine on 60 Hz, 240 V.

Steve

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