Sanyo 24KHS72 AC/HP DIY install project

[Xringer]

I think mine is about 3.6 zillion amps.. It seems to be made out of heavy metal with a copper coating..



They can take a lot of amps before they blow..



There are circuit breakers in the box inside the basement, but they never pop.
I've had to add in my own DIY electronic breakers, since I want to stop the in-rush at 10A.

[Vern2]

I'm getting closer to an install. Was running shop wiring, might as well run conduit for mini split disconnect box. Went to HD, asked for an AC disconnect box. Was shown there fused boxes. Have no knowledge of fused or un-fused box I need. My main AC unit is fused. There seems to be a size change in fuses in the 20 amp, plus the 20 amps are not slow blow. Can't find the amp draw for the unit I'm looking at here. Simular sized units are 17 amps, so I thought 20 amp might be fine. Have ran into this being said. " Fuses are to protect equipment, brealers are to protect wire. I'm running 10 gage to the other side of wall where condenser will be.My. Slim 18,000 btu

Xringer,

Your disconnect box looks like mine, just remove the plastic plate under pull out disconnect and that's where the fuses are. I guess I'll slip a couple 20 amps fuses in it. The small 6 slot sub panel will have 2 mini double 20 amp, a 40 for welder and 30 for mini split. Shop wiring

I puller a 1 - 30 amp 10 gage (hot water heater), 2 - 20 amp 12 gage and 1 - 15 amp 12 gage for lights. That's when I originally built the house here. Home build 1971 to 1976

[MN Renovator]

"Fuses are to protect equipment, brealers are to protect wire."

I can't really agree with that, it depends on the type of fuse or breaker. There are fast blowing fuses, slow blowing fuses. IMHO I'd rather have a fast blowing 60 amp fuse on a compressor that rated with a locked rotor at 70 amps than the typical slow blowing motor-rated fuses used to protect the wiring. Then I could focus on the circuit breaker protecting the wiring. Usually a properly chosen supplementary protector is the best way to protect equipment but the selection is critical on certain equipment.

In my case, my capacitor for the condenser failed and the compressor locked on startup. The disconnect is fused but the fuses are intact, the breaker is what tripped and after replacing the bad capacitor that failed when it lost oil out of the top lip seal, the compressor is fine. With the circuit breaker out of the equation, it is possible that a fuse would have blown and saved it too.

[Vern2]

Well in my case the 20 year old 5 ton compressor is starting to have a real hi starting amp pull. The slow blow keeps the compressor from going off line. The running amp are about 7 amps lower then start-up amps.

Picture below of TED:
green - 9k solar
red - 50 gal hot water heater
blue - 5 ton AC
black - is the 200 amp panel

Will it looks like I'm not telling the truth. The blue line is picking up my AC for the last 24 hours.

Had my AC looked at before the summer one year. The service guy told me I should get a new AC unit because the starting amps were 34 amp. The unit was about to quit working. I went to the unit and found the running amps were 27. That's the 7 amps I saw with a Fluke 34 - 27 = 7. Needless to say I don't have my unit looked at any more. A waste of money.

[Xringer]

Hi Vern, no fuses in mine. It's a non-fused box, like this one.
DiversiTech 60 Amp Non-Fused Disconnect Safety Switch - N6000NF - Younits.com

My 24,000 BTU Sanyos have this label.


The 4th line from the bottom says when the compressor locks up, it will draw 17.5 amps.

So, it seems like a 20 amp breaker (or fuse) would allow the compressor to dissipate 4.2 KW of heat.. (and then melt).

99.9% of the time, the Sanyos use well under 10A when running.
Your 18k BTU Mr. Slim system will use considerable less power.

Check the compressor rotor-lock spec before deciding you need to use a 20A breaker (or fuse).
I would expect that a smaller system would be fine with a 15A breaker..

[Vern2]

Xringer,

I believe what I stated. Breakers are or wire, fuses are for equipment. That's how I've been tought. Haven't bought fuses yet, breaker 30 amp.

AT%T DC Power tech and End Office installer (Not central office installer) for 33 years. My biggest job was Arizona State University. The equipment is still running at this time, over 30,000 phones. When I did it, it was 19,000 phones. I only added to the 48v 300 amp DC power, did not install that one. I removed 32 refrigerators cabinets and install 17 double density cabinets. 800 - 25 pair cables laying on floor during cut time. Had 8 guys there that night. I was 1 of a gang of 22 guys. Took 30 days to prepare the cut. Had two guys there for one day running jumpers and one woman there for a week to help with cables. I'm a one man Army, I did the rest. Took 5 1/2 hours to cut it. Was a 1.3 million cost to ASU, a long night. I did a major part of the software. Took around 3 weeks to clean it up was left there by myself. Why do you think I had a stroke at 59 and quit work, I'm 67 now. I always loved building things, Air Force 1965-1969, Vietnam Vet.

[MN Renovator]

"Had my AC looked at before the summer one year. The service guy told me I should get a new AC unit because the starting amps were 34 amp. The unit was about to quit working. I went to the unit and found the running amps were 27. That's the 7 amps I saw with a Fluke 34 - 27 = 7. Needless to say I don't have my unit looked at any more. A waste of money"

Starting draw of 34 amps isn't high. I have a 2 ton and it will momentarily pull more than that when it starts. 27 amps while running is about 6.5kw. If we divide that down to my 2 ton, that's 2.6kw, that's about what my system uses when we're approaching the 100's. Usually it runs at 2.3kw-2.5kw but based on the compressor nameplate the output is either 22k or 23k so it's not quite a 2 ton and I think I'd be comfortable with a 1.5 ton but I'd have no setback.

I counted 43 run cycles of your a/c, I hope that was a cool day because that is a ton of cycling. If the temperature outside my house is 90 degrees or higher with full sun, my A/C runs until the sun goes down. Our design temp is 88 degrees here but we've hit the high 90's here on consecutive days and I'm comfortable even though the coldest temperature my system maintains on a 98 degree day is about 76 degrees. It's comfortable to me because with the A/C running constantly, there is far less humidity in the air and 72 would feel cold in that situation. Be sure to get your air conditioner properly sized when its replaced and I'd recommend finding a thermostat with a wider temperature swing between cycles because there is no reason that an air conditioner needs to fire up more than once an hour, even that seems like a lot of cycling to me. It should make your a/c last longer, you'll have more comfort with longer cycles and lower humidity.

[Vern2]

MN Renovator,

I edited my last post, please read.

I had an analog thermostat and changed it out to Honeywell touch screen. I did not realize my TED graph showed short cycle times, looks normal to me. My thermometer showed 110 degrees yestersay. I'm keeping home at 79 degrees when it's 110 out side. I have more than 2000 KWH in the bank of over generated KWH, this July electric bill will be zero. Dec and July the solar can't keep up, but other months I may open the house and I'm over generating like crazy.

My old yearly electric bill , before solar was $1400. This next Feb the solar will have saved me $5,400 and I'll have 8 years to go for a total payoff.

Interesting current history grid from TED below.

Wen - I over generated $0.62
Tue - I over generated $0.53
Mon - I over generated $0.48
Sun - I over generated $0.83
Sat - It cost me $1.73
Fri - It cost me $2.40
and so on.

Did a firmware upgrade on TED's hardware and things got messed up last week in last weeks history below. There firmware had a null character in it, took me a couple days to fix it. TED's service line has been busy for days, helping others with the bad firmware load. The problem is their hardware took the bad firmware. This weeks history is on the money. I have two Monitor systems, that helps when the other has trouble. Second monitor system. Live system I'm cooking! Few clouds today.

[MN Renovator]

For 80 inside and 110 degrees outside, I'd expect an a/c to hit at least multiple hour long cycles during the hot part of the day. I can't see any scenario why an A/C should be cycling on and off that many times in a day.

Wow, 2000kwh banked up. That's close to the 2400kwh that I use in a year. I'd be very happy if I could make about 5280kwh/year because that would cover about 12,000 miles of electric car driving(1680kwh), the electric 'connection fees'(100kwh/mo), and my standard usage(average of 200kwh/mo) that I already use and leave me with surplus that would come out as a check. I'd probably need to switch houses to a single story house with the roof just right to have the space for all the panels I'd need.

[Vern2]

It was a lot of money, up front, but even at my age I could see dividends in my mind. It takes up front cash, you don't get back right away. With a few years the cost ends up being zero $ for the solar. You can see in May, I generated 1938.99 KWH. My total generated hours for the year is 18,502 KWH. My total lifetime energy for 3 1/2 years is 46,550 KWH.

I traded my wifes 2008 Pruis with 45,000 miles for a 2011 Prius with 3 miles for $5,000, a great deal. Of course You know what I drive, not very good milage. A larger engine with jump to generation 3

I did not want solar on my roof. I built a 30' x 37' platform in back yard for the panels. I change the panel tilt every 3 months (season). solar build

This is getting OT, sorry!