Mini Split install

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by pinballlooking

PB Blaster did not help at all. Crows foot on a breaker bar no go. I tried my battery power impact driver no go. So I broke out the big guns my air impact driver 450 ft lbs torque.
It took it off like butter I am back in business it is off!

I would examine everything to be sure nothing is damaged / galled .

Your unit was shipped with flare nuts on the fittings and service valves ? And the pre-made factory line set also has flare nuts on it ?

So , you end up with an extra set of flare nuts , in case one is damaged ?

I bought 2 rolls of copper tubing , each 50 ' long . Could not find a line set , locally , when I purchased the system & parts and pieces . I made the flares on the copper & insulated the lines . So , I had to use the flare nuts that came on the equipment .

I looked last night and the biggest flare nut / tubing wrench in the harbor freight set is 22 mm . That was not quite large enough for the big flare nut .

When you go back together , smear a little Nylog Blue on both sides of the flare and the end / face of the flare fitting . And the threads .

Keep up the good work , you are getting there . :-)

God bless
Wyr

[pinballlooking]

Yes it was shipped with flare nuts on fittings and service valves. It did not come with the pre-made lines I ordered them with the unit.
I did not like the patio blocks for the pad so yesterday I poured a pad. Now I have to wait until the cement cures before I can finish.
I am going to finish running the power to it today.

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by pinballlooking

Yes it was shipped with flare nuts on fittings and service valves. It did not come with the pre-made lines I ordered them with the unit.
I did not like the patio blocks for the pad so yesterday I poured a pad. Now I have to wait until the cement cures before I can finish.
I am going to finish running the power to it today.

Depending on the outdoor temp , you probably need at least 1 day to let the concrete cure enough to work on it . Two days would probably be better . Maybe more than that if it is cold ?

At work , we usually use " Tap-Cons " or steel drop in anchors for cinder block or concrete .

Did I ask if your outdoor unit has a drain fitting on the bottom ? To allow water melted during defrost , to drain out of the " cabinet " ?

God bless
Wyr

[pinballlooking]

It does have a drain but I am not that concerned about it. Because below a certain temp I will just switch off the mini split and use my natural gas heat. I am outside Greenville SC and we don’t get those cold temps that often and when we do they don’t stay the way for very long.

I really want to get this installed but I am not going to rush it.

I have never used Tapcon’s before but those look perfect. Thanks for the suggestion!

[jeff5may]

Tapcons rule. Remember to buy a box with a pilot drill bit in it for best results. Be careful with your fresh concrete pad, though. If it's not cured enough, it'll cleave like ice or the holes will strip out.

Should've dropped a couple of bolts in it while it was still wet. Most manufactured units come with some kind of template that will float on concrete.

[pinballlooking]

We were heading out of town yesterday and it was sprinkling. So I needed to get it done before we left and covered up. I will just be wait it out I will have the breaker and the disconnect switch done today.
I would rather it be done right than faster anyway.
It is a very sunny day today

[pinballlooking]

Breaker is in and the disconnect switch is ready to go one step closer.

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by pinballlooking

Breaker is in and the disconnect switch is ready to go one step closer.

:-)

Is your mini split 120 VAC or 240 VAC ? What size breaker & wire ?

Slip a piece of Liquid-Tite flex over the cable between the inside & outside units . This will protect the insulation on the cable from UV in the sunlight .

I have seen regular thermostat wire going to a central air condenser , the insulation flaked off the wire after years of exposure to UV .

The black foam insulation on the copper suction line deteriorated too . Wrapping with black tape helps .

God bless
Wyr

[pinballlooking]

Finishing the romex to the load center was fun it is getting very crowded going up to the load center. I used 12-2 because the next mini split will need that size and it was cheaper to just buy big roll 12-2 then buy both 14-2 and 12-2.


It is a 240 vac unit 27 seer 9,000 btu using a 15 amp breaker.
I have some Liquid-Tite flex for the inside cable. Where do you buy the black wrapping tape?
I bought this “Printed Line Set Tape”
1507-S - Venture Tape 1507-S - Printed Line Set Tape - Silver (2" x 180')
but I am not sure this is the right stuff.

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by pinballlooking

Finishing the romex to the load center was fun it is getting very crowded going up to the load center. I used 12-2 because the next mini split will need that size and it was cheaper to just buy big roll 12-2 then buy both 14-2 and 12-2.


It is a 240 vac unit 27 seer 9,000 btu using a 15 amp breaker.
I have some Liquid-Tite flex for the inside cable. Where do you buy the black wrapping tape?
I bought this “Printed Line Set Tape”
1507-S - Venture Tape 1507-S - Printed Line Set Tape - Silver (2" x 180')
but I am not sure this is the right stuff.

Did you fish 2 runs of Romex into the load center ? just about as easy as fishing 1 Romex . Leave the spare in the attic , tape or wirenut the ends for safety . At both ends .

I used black electrical tape to wrap the line set . But this may be what is made for that purpose ?

https://www.johnstonesupply.com/stor...ape&sub=search

I see no reason why the tape you bought would not work fine .

God bless
Wyr