Mini Split install

[pinballlooking]

They have inverter compressors so it really varies based on load.
They really use more power to heat than to cool.


The docs on this page will give you the max current and detailed info.
Terra Series - Ductless Wall Mount Heating and Cooling | Gree Comfort

[Xringer]

These new units don't run at a fixed power level. So, you just have to look at the specs,
or find out from other users, who have monitored the kwh used by their units.

Because these units have inverter-technology, the amps (or kwh) used will vary greatly with the room temp settings, insulation of your home, and outdoor temps.

If you don't have insulated windows, or your home is very well insulated, the difference in power use can be large.

I monitor both of my Sanyo mini-splits with TED power monitors.
But, my electric bill would be of little use to anyone else, unless they lived in my area, had a similar 1956 home, liked to keep their house at 21C 24/7.. etc. etc.

My comparison is with my old oil heating system. Depending on the price of oil, I spend about 1/4 to 1/5 of oil heat..
But, now that global warming is getting bad, my power bill will be going up 30 to 40 percent.?. And since the price of oil is dropping.. I may have to buy some solar panels to run my Sanyos..

[redneck]

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Thanks for the quick response. I'm aware of the Gree specs. however, I was told by tech support not to put much faith in the specs. Would it be possible to use your TED program or maybe a amp clamp to confirm what they're pulling ? I realize that the load varies, but if you max out the heat and fan setting, then take a reading, it should be close to the maximum amps pulled. The reason I ask is because I'm looking at going off grid and I need real numbers to size my system.


I've read your grid tied "DIY 12.5kw sola array" thread and I'm impressed with your results.

However, I will not be doing a grid tie unless my co-op changes their policy.




Xringer

Thanks for responding. I understand there are many variables. However, since I'm looking at the exact same units the info would be relevant.





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[pinballlooking]

I have a Ted also but it is monitoring the whole house and the solar. I have a couple extra current clamps another nice member here sold to me. I will try to hook a set up this weekend and give you some actual numbers. It has been cold here so I should be able to give some normal heat and high heat numbers.
Where are you located because that will make a difference?

I will be doing a second solar install maybe this summer and I have a co-op at that place their meter fee is like $28 a month it is crazy.

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by redneck

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Xringer

Thanks for responding. I understand there are many variables. However, since I'm looking at the exact same units the info would be relevant.





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It would be relevant, if all other variable were the same..

Like if you lived in a place with the exact same weather, in the exact same kind of house etc..

What I was trying to tell you, the amount of amps isn't relevant,
because amps is the measure of electrons flowing in one second..

And the power used by an inverter mini-split varies a LOT..
Mine goes from 1 amp to 10 amps, depending on variables..

Plus, there are times when a mini-split will coast.. With out running it's motors.
It's only using 10 to 40 watts..
Is any of this info relevant, without know all the other variables? Nope..

[redneck]

I live in S.C. like you. Down in the low country just outside Charleston S.C. So the weather norms and extremes are somewhat comparable.

pinballlooking

I will be doing a second solar install maybe this summer and I have a co-op at that place their meter fee is like $28 a month it is crazy.

My co-op wants $15 service fee. I have no problem with that. However, they want to dictate the size of the system and have a bank reset date of June 1st.

I could probably live with that if I had to. Not that I want to.

But, this is what I have a problem with.

The rate has a $5 per kW fee which will be paid by Central Electric Power Cooperative (CEPCI) as long as funds are available–after which the fee becomes the customer’s responsibility.

There's no way I'm going to pay a "$5 per kW fee" for the privilege of producing my own power, for my own use and giving them the excess.

I'd rather spend that money on my own size pv array, batteries and suitable inverter-charge controller.

I will try to hook a set up this weekend and give you some actual numbers.

I appreciate you going through the trouble of checking that for me.

Thanks



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[AC_Hacker]

Originally Posted by redneck

...Have you ever measured the actual amount of amps drawn by these units ?

I'm not sure what unit you are referring to, but I have a Sanyo 3/4 Ton mini-split.

It's size was small enough that I could run it through a Kill-a-Watt, which I did for a winter.

As has been said before, because they have their own brain, measurements go all over the place.

I would say that the units have a steady 30 watt draw, no matter what is going on (unless you shut them down entirely). I am now pretty sure that the 30 watt is because of a crank case heater. You should check your unit to see if this is the case. I don't think you'd need that heater unless the temperature really went low. So maybe a crank case heater toggle would be good.

Other wise, my unit never got very close to its maximum rating. They start gradually and ramp up.

In my experience, the instant-on full-amp thing just isn't going to happen.

My unit does have a "High Power" mode, which makes everything go on high. I guess I should have measured it, but I didn't. Truth is, I felt embarrassed by all the work it was going through, and I never used that mode again.

-AC_Hacker

[gtojohn]

In October I installed a 26000 btu gree dual zone 16 seer neo, each zone was 12k. Running at full load I was surprised it drew 15 amps@240v. This is twice what my central 2 ton 14 seer draws. This reading wasn't start up peak, it was run load amps, both units calling for cooling.

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by gtojohn

In October I installed a 26000 btu gree dual zone 16 seer neo, each zone was 12k. Running at full load I was surprised it drew 15 amps@240v. This is twice what my central 2 ton 14 seer draws. This reading wasn't start up peak, it was run load amps, both units calling for cooling.

3.6KW is a lot of juice. That must have been a pretty hot day..

My Sanyo 24,000 BTU systems try to going to 3.6KW sometimes,
but I shut them down at the 10A mark. Saves a lot of electricity..
No need for that craziness..

[ctgottapee]

Originally Posted by gtojohn

In October I installed a 26000 btu gree dual zone 16 seer neo, each zone was 12k. Running at full load I was surprised it drew 15 amps@240v. This is twice what my central 2 ton 14 seer draws. This reading wasn't start up peak, it was run load amps, both units calling for cooling.

Your numbers shouldn't be surprising. 2 x 2ton gree running full blast will pull double what 1 x 2ton anything else will pull at about the same seer.

I generally don't hit anywhere near the max specs on my unit, but it will if the delta both inside and outside is extreme and you request max cooling/heating.
The actual fan unit inside doesn't draw much of anything, from 5 - 50watts.

Also the power factor will vary wildly so you need a PF corrected meter, although you will have to adjust some as your generation will have to handle that imbalance.


If you don't trust gree's specs, just look at the specs of a similar unit from the other guys; gree is using or copying the same parts in the typical unit.