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Old 07-08-12, 03:39 PM   #41
Xringer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berniebenz View Post
Why would you use an iron cold line nipple, with the dissimilar metals problem? A x 6 brass nipple is only about $5.
The stock nipple isn't brass. I think the tank is steel, so it shouldn't be that dissimilar.?.
The HD price for brass was over $17.. Black Steel was $2.24

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Old 07-08-12, 03:59 PM   #42
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Default porcelain

I think it's some kind of baked-on porcelain coating.

Never really had one of these things before, but I've read, the anode
should be inspected every 6 to 12 months. I think this one might be magnesium.?.
I saw some pics of anodes that looked half eaten.

I want to pull this one out for a peek and put it back in with Teflon tape.
(So I can do inspections later on).

I'm going to look at wiring the elements to use about 1.2kw at 120vac.
Just in case the A7 needs a little help..
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Old 07-08-12, 05:35 PM   #43
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I don't think so. It says disconnect the WH power during install.

On the Ebay page, it says "For maximum savings, it is recommended that the existing water heater be disconnected."

But, using the heating elements might be required if you have company and a few more folks need to take showers..

Seems like you could set the A7 to 125F and set the heaters to 110F..
When the A7 wasn't keeping up with demand, you pay extra..

There is a port on top where the Anode screws in. I'm assuming it's there.
Maybe I'll pry off the plastic cap, cut out the insulation and remove the Anode for inspection.
I think it might need to be well grounded to the tank, so maybe Teflon tape might not be the best way to re-install it..?.

The A7 brackets attach to the water in/out pipes (nipples).

I've already pulled the hot & cold nipple (PITB). I will replace the hot with the special brass nipple from the A7 kit.

The cold nipple is short and has flow restriction (small check-valve), so I'm going to replace that one with a 6" iron nipple.

Using the short (stock) cold water nipple causes the U-bolt clamp to rest
on the connecting cold water input pipe..

Since I'm going to use 3/4" Pex, the extra tall nipple will allow the clamp to rest on iron. (It can be real tight).

Here's my test fit photo.
They used to have the installation manual up on their web page. IIRC it said to disconnect the regular heating elements. Maybe because they interfere with the temp sensor? I don't know.

WRT the anode, I was talking about the anode rod for the boiler that you're having rust problems with. Maybe a new anode would help. Your new heater should have a new anode in it already. If you change the anode, it has to have an electrical connection to the tank - that's how it sacrifices itself galvanically. So teflon tape might not be so good.
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Old 07-08-12, 05:42 PM   #44
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P.S. You might want to make heat-trap loops in the lines since you took out the heat-trap fittings.
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Old 07-08-12, 09:58 PM   #45
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Default Correct

I went back and read it again.. They don't want any power going into the HW heater...

Warnings
When installing the AirTap™on a gas or electric water heater, disconnect permanently the gas or power supply to the water heater while the AirTap™is being installed. The original gas/power supply to the gas/electric water heater shall remain disconnected after installation.


Seems odd to me. The Hybrid units being sold these days are using both modes of water heating..

Maybe the A7 is so good, they feel you don't need alternate heating coming in.

I guess using AC (or solar PV) is something to look at later.
I don't foresee needing alt-heat for a good while.


Now, I'm trying to figure out the best way to incorporate heat traps in the lines.
My GE manual shows a 6" (minimum) down loop on both water lines.
I could do it with PEX elbows, but I'm thinking some (four) 90 degree PEX bender brackets might be better.

A5150750 - Uponor (Wirsbo) A5150750 - 3/4" Plastic Bend Support
http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/produ...a5150750-3.jpg
I could run the Pex up 7.5" above the 3/4" copper, bend flat flat (against the kitchen sub-floor) and bend it back down to the copper..
That would avoid the use of a lot of elbows and the problems they cause.
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Old 07-08-12, 10:50 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Xringer View Post
Now, I'm trying to figure out the best way to incorporate heat traps in the lines.
My GE manual shows a 6" (minimum) down loop on both water lines.
And just what is a heat trap in a water line? Id like to trap some!
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Old 07-09-12, 07:33 AM   #47
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And just what is a heat trap in a water line? Id like to trap some!
http://www.energycodes.gov/moodle/mo...iew.php?id=109
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Old 07-09-12, 08:38 AM   #48
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My GE hybrid has both and can be switched to electric, heat pump or both for "high demand".
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Old 07-09-12, 09:08 AM   #49
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Default bender brackets

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Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian View Post
My GE hybrid has both and can be switched to electric, heat pump or both for "high demand".
Yeah, and that's why I think it would be pretty weird that the A7 would be installed,
so it couldn't run the heating elements at all.

IMO, the heating elements on my setup should come on, when the temperature
drops below my choice of set-point.
If I run them at 120vac, it's not going to cost a lot to assist the A7.

~~~

I took it easy on my sore back all weekend, did the recommended stretching,
went for a slow 3 mile walk on Sunday evening..
And today, my back is hurting more! It stinks to be getting so old..
Got a few easy things I can do today. Slow progress is better than none..

I ordered four of those 90 degree PEX bender brackets for the heat traps last night.
(Ebay total $5.98) Should be here by Thursday.

Edit: The PEX 90deg brackets came today (Wednesday). Which has me thinking that I may need more 3/4" PEX.. I only have 10 ft..
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Last edited by Xringer; 07-11-12 at 11:35 AM..
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Old 07-09-12, 05:30 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xringer View Post
I went back and read it again.. They don't want any power going into the HW heater...

Warnings
When installing the AirTap™on a gas or electric water heater, disconnect permanently the gas or power supply to the water heater while the AirTap™is being installed. The original gas/power supply to the gas/electric water heater shall remain disconnected after installation.


Seems odd to me. The Hybrid units being sold these days are using both modes of water heating..
Probable the reason they want you to disconnect other heat source because what if your thermostat fails? HWT can reach over 100 C (boiling water + pressure). You have their refrigeration lines (full of liquid refrigerant) inside this super hot water. Think what is going to happen next???

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