07-08-12, 03:39 PM | #41 | |
Lex Parsimoniae
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The HD price for brass was over $17.. Black Steel was $2.24
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07-08-12, 03:59 PM | #42 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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porcelain
I think it's some kind of baked-on porcelain coating.
Never really had one of these things before, but I've read, the anode should be inspected every 6 to 12 months. I think this one might be magnesium.?. I saw some pics of anodes that looked half eaten. I want to pull this one out for a peek and put it back in with Teflon tape. (So I can do inspections later on). I'm going to look at wiring the elements to use about 1.2kw at 120vac. Just in case the A7 needs a little help..
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07-08-12, 05:35 PM | #43 | |
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WRT the anode, I was talking about the anode rod for the boiler that you're having rust problems with. Maybe a new anode would help. Your new heater should have a new anode in it already. If you change the anode, it has to have an electrical connection to the tank - that's how it sacrifices itself galvanically. So teflon tape might not be so good. |
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07-08-12, 05:42 PM | #44 |
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P.S. You might want to make heat-trap loops in the lines since you took out the heat-trap fittings.
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07-08-12, 09:58 PM | #45 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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Correct
I went back and read it again.. They don't want any power going into the HW heater...
Warnings When installing the AirTap™on a gas or electric water heater, disconnect permanently the gas or power supply to the water heater while the AirTap™is being installed. The original gas/power supply to the gas/electric water heater shall remain disconnected after installation. Seems odd to me. The Hybrid units being sold these days are using both modes of water heating.. Maybe the A7 is so good, they feel you don't need alternate heating coming in. I guess using AC (or solar PV) is something to look at later. I don't foresee needing alt-heat for a good while. Now, I'm trying to figure out the best way to incorporate heat traps in the lines. My GE manual shows a 6" (minimum) down loop on both water lines. I could do it with PEX elbows, but I'm thinking some (four) 90 degree PEX bender brackets might be better. A5150750 - Uponor (Wirsbo) A5150750 - 3/4" Plastic Bend Support http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/produ...a5150750-3.jpg I could run the Pex up 7.5" above the 3/4" copper, bend flat flat (against the kitchen sub-floor) and bend it back down to the copper.. That would avoid the use of a lot of elbows and the problems they cause.
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07-08-12, 10:50 PM | #46 |
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07-09-12, 07:33 AM | #47 | |
Lex Parsimoniae
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Quote:
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07-09-12, 08:38 AM | #48 |
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My GE hybrid has both and can be switched to electric, heat pump or both for "high demand".
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07-09-12, 09:08 AM | #49 | |
Lex Parsimoniae
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bender brackets
Quote:
so it couldn't run the heating elements at all. IMO, the heating elements on my setup should come on, when the temperature drops below my choice of set-point. If I run them at 120vac, it's not going to cost a lot to assist the A7. ~~~ I took it easy on my sore back all weekend, did the recommended stretching, went for a slow 3 mile walk on Sunday evening.. And today, my back is hurting more! It stinks to be getting so old.. Got a few easy things I can do today. Slow progress is better than none.. I ordered four of those 90 degree PEX bender brackets for the heat traps last night. (Ebay total $5.98) Should be here by Thursday. Edit: The PEX 90deg brackets came today (Wednesday). Which has me thinking that I may need more 3/4" PEX.. I only have 10 ft..
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07-09-12, 05:30 PM | #50 | |
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