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Old 10-23-17, 10:51 AM   #71
pinballlooking
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The cheaper ones don’t seem to heat below 5 degrees. If getting temps below that I would get one that has heat at very cold temps.

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Old 10-23-17, 12:19 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecomodded View Post
Even the cheap models have a COP of 3. When its time to buy I am thinking will get the cheapest model I can find and call the problem solved.

A meager $750 12K unit would have a fast pay back time especially so if you buy or rent a Vacuum pump and install it yourself.
If you are getting it for a place you plan to stay in a while i would go ahead and pay a little more money. (That is if you have it.) In my case i just didnt have the extra money to spend on mine and i needed something that i wouldnt freeze or burn slam up with . I was using a very inefficient space heater to heat with and it wasnt worth it to keep using that thing . Either way you go mini split will be worth it . I went cheap. If i was in the same boat with money . I still would. When the time comes to get another one though . I will probably go for a much higher seer rating. Temps here get cool here but not so much temp wise. Its the miserable wet cold unfortunately.
I havent had any complaints so far with my el cheap o kozy kool. I did also make sure mine had a decent compressor though before i bought it. That may be a reason .
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Old 10-23-17, 05:38 PM   #73
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Check AutoZone or O'Reilly Auto Parts for a loaner vacuum pump .

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Old 10-23-17, 08:50 PM   #74
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The model I came across was a non energy star 17 seer Pioneer 12K split advertised to work down to -15. It uses a dc inverter pump and was reported to make 16500 Btu max and a min of 4500 Btu at min temp. Not at all spectacular in the cold weather although not many make good heat at -15

Good for my neck of the woods we normally get a low of 30 or 31*f , -1 or -2c
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Old 10-23-17, 09:30 PM   #75
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Best I remember , the last one we installed ( bedroom ) was a 16 SEER Inverter Drive Heat Pump .

I usually turn it off at about 25 F & run with the 92% gas central furnace .

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Old 10-24-17, 06:46 AM   #76
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As long as you understand that the economy models are basically a separated window air conditioner. The hotter outside it is, the more heat they move, both in heating and cooling modes. The units that are the cheapest typically have a balance point a few degrees above freezing. Some of them will shut down below about 40 degF or 5 degC, some of them will switch to backup heat. The worst ones keep on trying to heat and defrost cycle often. So just when you need them the most, they fall on their faces and cost more to provide less heat.

FWIW, all air source units suffer this symptom. The inverter units with smart defrost do the best they can, given the environment they have to cope with. When the environment isn't so harsh, the single speed, cap tube metering units only have maximum performance at a single set of conditions. The variable speed units with expansion valves work hard to save money and move lots of heat.
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Old 10-24-17, 08:24 AM   #77
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Not sure , but I think some / all of the inverter drive models have electronic expansion valves ?

Please correct me if I am wrong .

Our 16 SEER HP MS in the bedroom seems to do fine . Keep in mind , at least for cooling , it is pretty much over sized for the sq ft floor space ( 11,600 BTU ) . Being inverter drive , it dose not seem to matter much . And I do not need dehumidification in our climate .

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Old 10-24-17, 12:45 PM   #78
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It appears the old new tech is now making it to the old cheap tech heat pumps

Im thinking I would not want a unit with a built in resistance heater , instead would turn on electric heat in the house and leave the pump on to do what it can 24-7

Thats the plan with the portable ac heat pump its going to be left on as long it operates / makes heat.
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Old 10-24-17, 03:03 PM   #79
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Neither of our 2 MS HP's have any electrical resistance heat . My impression is that is SOP .

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Old 10-24-17, 07:12 PM   #80
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The back up heat can mask a poor performing system and give a high electric bill.
I dont want to have be fighting with the thermostat to stay out of back up heat

If I had a model with heat strips I would disable the emergency / back up heat setting and leave it set to come on for the defrost cycle. That's a useful feature for me

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