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Old 09-03-16, 02:50 AM   #41
Just One More
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Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
It's an off brand senville with a Toshiba compressor off eBay straight out of Compton for $990.
Also picked up a cheap manifold gauge and 2 stage vac pump. All I had before was my jerry rigged setup with a air powered vac pump and some lines, an automotive vacuum gauge and a 200 psi well water pump gauge.
For pulling out a large volume of air the air powered pump still wins but only draws about 1 inch of mercury away from an absolute vacuum.
I have that unit in the 12,000 btu flavor for a 550 sq ft area. It can freeze you out if you let it. Not a bad selection. For my downstairs I am going with 9,000 btu at 27 SEER.


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Old 09-03-16, 11:37 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by AC_Hacker View Post
Really depends on how many hours a day you intend to run it.

If you do a break-even analysis, considering the initial cost (fixed cost), and the incremental cost (variable cost) of running in your comparison you will see what's going on.

I tend to strongly prefer units with the highest HSPF (for heating) because of cost, and also I am aware of the CO2 advantage. despite higher initial cost.

However, I was doing the very same consideration for a unit to use in my basement shop space, and in that case, the higher HSPF did not pay off.

The reason was that my shop heating is so intermittent, that the efficiency advantage was never there, even projecting a 15 year life.

I did the same comparison against a resistance heater, and the lower efficiency heat pump was the winner, even with intermittent use. Breaking even in about a year and a half.



-AC
Since we are using it to cool off the bed room during the day, all day its going to see a lot of hours.

If I were going to put one in my garage, where it might get used 1 or 2 days a week max, yeah I would go with a cheap big one for sure.

To determine the power use I had to assume the 6,000btu window unit was going to run about 5 amps of 120v power pretty much from about 10am to 5 or 6pm with the bed room door shut and it couldn't even cool off the room during the hottest part of the day.
If I close the door to the bed room the new split unit will cool the room down and draw down to around 1 amp of 240v power or less. So its using pretty close to half the power of the window unit. Usually just leave the door wide open so it can cool the living room too, as opposed to turning on another air conditioner.
So if I left the door closed it would use about half the power during the day.
Also I just got finished putting new double pane windows and I am going to insulate the walls soon. The walls have northing in them, aside from a layer of black fiber board that as far as I can tell has an insulating value of about R-1. Which I guess is slightly better than nothing. I am going to hand fill them with cellulose.
And lastly I am going to resell the window units on fb to pay for part of all this.
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Old 09-03-16, 11:39 AM   #43
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I have that unit in the 12,000 btu flavor for a 550 sq ft area. It can freeze you out if you let it. Not a bad selection. For my downstairs I am going with 9,000 btu at 27 SEER.
Cool, I am planning on getting a 2 ton or 24,000BTU for about a 1,000 square foot area next.
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Old 09-03-16, 01:11 PM   #44
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A 24,000 SEER 21 unit should do well for you. It has for me. You might look at the unit in the link. It has specs very similar to the Gree (which is also available there for comparison). Always check moisture removal capability if you are in a humid climate. Check maximum amd minimum operating temperatures for the outside unit. It does make a difference/

Thermocore T321S-H224 24000 BTU Ductless Split heat pump 21 SEER

They include the line kit, but no wall sleeve if that makes a difference.
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Old 09-03-16, 02:16 PM   #45
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I did not use a wall sleeve for our 2 units .

Insulated , cut & flared the 2 line sets .

God bless
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Old 09-03-16, 04:03 PM   #46
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Normally where I live the humidity is between 15% and 50%.
But I have seen humidity as low as 3% which I didn't even think was possible below 15,000 feet above sea level its only 4,400 feet up here.
During wet years like we are having now the humidity is close to east coast levels.
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Old 09-03-16, 07:13 PM   #47
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Been raining recently .

We normally have a dry climate . :-)

I do not take dehumidification into the picture .

God bless
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Old 09-03-16, 08:15 PM   #48
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If you are a dry climate, check the min and max operating temperatures as those will often become more important to you. Don't want the cold or heat capacity dying out on you when you need it most.
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Old 09-04-16, 12:43 AM   #49
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I want my back yard welding circuit back so I started running 10/3 triplex wire today. Only got about 10 feet total and only about 6 linier wall feet of wire put in the wall.
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Old 09-04-16, 07:25 AM   #50
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All you mini-split veteran owners, please chime in on xringer's review thread. There is a big void in the decision making process with these systems. The manufacturers publish pretty vague specs and feature sets on their offerings. Also, lots of units seem to be clones physically. Your reviews of operational behavior and year-round usage will be very valuable to say the least.

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/geothe...ver-1-0-a.html

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