03-26-12, 06:20 AM | #471 |
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Although I've never personally used one, I have the same suspicion regarding the 'composite' ODU pads. It seems like it would be much easier to just slap down one of those plastic pads, bolt the ODU to it and call it a day. But then I'd be one to lose sleep over it sinking into the ground (even though the ground here is pretty hard). I went the more traditional route and poured a 4" concrete pad on top of a 2" base of compacted sand and gravel. I found some 2ft x 2ft rubber outdoor 'tiles' at Home Depot that are about 1" thick and made of ground-up recycled tires that I used as the vibration isolation pads. 2 of those tiles fit perfectly on the concrete pad, so far they are working well.
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03-26-12, 07:01 AM | #472 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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That's a good way to go. The install kit comes with rubber feet, but they aren't very thick.
Better than nothing I guess. My #2 Sanyo install is bolted on some 4x4" skids and I'll have to keep an eye on them. Just take the level out and make sure nothing is getting out of kilter.
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03-26-12, 06:53 PM | #473 | |
Less usage=Cheaper bills
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Quote:
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05-04-12, 11:21 AM | #474 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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I think my Sanyos have been given a new part number under the new Panasonic brand name..
KE24NKU - Panasonic KE24NKU - 24,200 BTU Ductless Single Zone Mini-Split Wall-Mounted Heat Pump & Air Conditioner
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05-16-12, 07:39 AM | #475 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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Power use in Standby mode (Open breaker savings?)
Last week, we had some very cool mornings, but didn't have to use the Sanyos.
One morning, I noticed they were using 70 watts (total) in standby/OFF-mode. I assumed that was due to the crankcase heaters (and control boards) load. Later on that same day, when it warmed up to 75F, I noticed the power use had dropped to 10 watts. (That's likely + or - 20% at that low range). This morning, it's 62F out and the Sanyos were using 40w..?. Now it's 10w.. So, it seems the heaters are under thermostat control. Kinda like a hot-water heater, but not so hoggish.. I'm not sure if the t-stat control acts any differently in cooling mode OFF-mode, but my guess is the heater function is pretty basic. Based on outdoor temp. So, when it's warm, it's not costing a lot, so just to leave the breakers on.. And in the winter time, do the same, since you will be needing that heat. IMHO, it's not too un-green to leave the crankcase heaters on year-round.. The only big benefit I can see, open breakers might provide a bit of protection from nearby lightning strikes..
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05-16-12, 11:18 PM | #476 |
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"The only big benefit I can see, open breakers might provide a bit of protection from nearby lightning strikes.."
Don't count on it, shortly after my parents got married their house got hit by lightning, it burned up the TV, almost all of the kitchen appliances, and most of the light bulbs. It also somehow arced over a few electrical outlets to where the metal contacts inside were rough and would sometimes shoot some sparks(not the usual little arc) when unplugging a high wattage appliance like an iron or hair dryer before turning it off. The fun thing is that some items were switched off on power strips and the burned out light bulbs were switched off. That little tiny gap in a switch or circuit breaker won't help much when lightning passes from the sky through whatever path it takes before it hits ground. Appliance grounding becomes more important. For example, the furnace and refrigerator were okay but the toaster was fried. |
05-17-12, 08:21 AM | #477 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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That's why I said "a bit of protection"..
If the hit is miles away, you might not get a very high surge of power on your system. There's not much that's going to help you when the hit is close by.
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05-19-12, 11:02 AM | #478 |
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My grandmother had a cabin in rural Ohio years back. Lightning struck the top of the tree & the jolt traveled down the trunk, along a root, into the wellhouse, then into the cabin on both the wiring and the plumbing. Lightbulbs & appliances blown out, etc. The wildest parts were the fusebox(this was built before breakers) and the electric water heater. The glass fuses exploded, blowing the spring-latched fusebox door open and sending shards flying across the room. The water heater tank was distorted and the heating elements were twisted and gnarled like a giant grabbed them and wrung them out like a towel!
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05-19-12, 11:20 AM | #479 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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It does do some damage. A pine tree got hit across the street and all the other trees within 50 feet, died within a few years.
They lost their GDO and I lost my 4800 baud phone modem.. When it hit, I was downstairs in our basement, checking the sump pump. The arcs made loud a snapping noise, like the sound of bullets.. (at supersonic speeds). Nice light show too. It was arcing all over the plumbing. But it happened too fast to scare me much..
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05-20-12, 01:21 AM | #480 |
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Lightning strike damage
Here is a photo I took of the electric meter and lightning protection at one of my customers. The charred remains at the bottom are all that remained of the protection device (the original device is in the other photo).
This has now happened 3 times to the same client. The first time I had to replace all the fuse holders as they had burnt out. That time he also suffered with destroyed equipment in the house. I then put in additional surge protection in the house so he has not had a repeat of that occuring. The protection devices in his electric meter cupboard have continued to be destroyed though. He has now got through 3 devices - all resulting in a similar mess to the one shown. I'm about to put a different (supposedly more capable) device in. I hope it does work as it is over 350 euros. Nigel |
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air conditioner, diy, heat pump |
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