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Old 04-05-11, 11:25 AM   #391
Vern2
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Xringer,

Swamp coolers makes everything rust. I've got too much investment in tools and machines. They take work, changing pads. The water has to be change offen. I don't think you've used one or your willing to put up with the mess and work. Not counting the damage they do.

AC Hacker,

The worse thing is underestimating unit size. The one I'm trying to avoid is the short cycle from a ASHP that's too big. I figured with the variable speed condenser unit, I could guess-a-mate 2 ton and 600 square feet is way over kill. Now will the variable speed compressor throttle back enough to still run effectively, without creating a short life for the unit. I know the compressor friction of a bigger unit will cost me a little more in running expenses.

Just thinking now that the 17,500 btu may be a better fit. The two units (17,500 - 24,000) are priced $300 apart. And the $300 will help on the tools. Plus the 17,500 is a 20 seer.

Points:
♦ Cooling Capacity: 4,000 btu⇔17,500 btu. This maybe my answer.
♦ 0 F to 115 F Outdoor Temperature

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Old 04-05-11, 10:56 PM   #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern2 View Post
Xringer,

Swamp coolers makes everything rust. I've got too much investment in tools and machines. They take work, changing pads. The water has to be change offen. I don't think you've used one or your willing to put up with the mess and work. Not counting the damage they do.

The tools in my basement shop are rusting because of humidity.
It's always humid down there in the summer.
But, it's just on the surface of the iron stuff.
I just use a little oil on the critical stuff (x-y table & lathe parts).

Most of the rust just looks bad and does not effect using the tool.
In another 15 or 20 years, it might cause some damage.
I would take better care of them, if I was going to sell them,
or live another 30 years!

When I was a kid living down in Del Rio Texas, we had a whole-house swamp cooler,
and I don't remember the house feeling very humid..
I remember it as being pretty dry most of the time.
I think once when the water drip-rail was over-flowing, some water
came out of the blower. It felt good, like a cool mist.
I think the air was so dry, the moist air coming from the cooler
just dried up within seconds.. (Not a 'tight' house).
I remember, the barrel of the old .22 had a thin coating of well oiled rust.
(Likely had it years before I was born).
But, that didn't have any effect on it's operation.. It just wasn't pretty.
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Old 04-07-11, 10:44 AM   #393
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Xringer,

Your absolutely right. They do stop working at 25% humidity. I like the almost zero maintance with central air. You know I have solar, so my promise to my wife was zero electric bill for the rest of our lives ( I really pre-paid my electric bill). Live Solar Anyway the solar may not cover the 17,500 btu mini split.

Someday the 5 ton ASHP main centrial air (no heat strips) will die, then I'll dump the 8 seer for a 16 seer, and all will be well again.
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Old 04-07-11, 06:09 PM   #394
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You've got a a good bit of PV.. Is it all being used during hot weather?

I'm thinking of using my 500w array to run my Sanyo 24,000 during sunny days.

Off-grid folks like the Sanyo..
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Old 04-11-11, 12:54 PM   #395
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Hey guys I had one more question. There's always one more right? haha. I'm about to order a line set for the heat pump and I was wondering do both lines need to be insulated or just the suction line? I couldn't find much info online about this.
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Old 04-11-11, 04:09 PM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cholcombe View Post
Hey guys I had one more question. There's always one more right? haha. I'm about to order a line set for the heat pump and I was wondering do both lines need to be insulated or just the suction line? I couldn't find much info online about this.
Both were insulated on my system.

Also, the instructions suggested wrapping the pair of insulated lines together, with Armorflex tape (two inch wide insulated tape about 0.25" with an adhesive surface).

The procedure is to wrap an overlapping spiral from bottom to top, so moisture will be shed from the lines.

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Old 04-11-11, 04:11 PM   #397
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I see.. well it wouldn't be too hard for me to get some extra insulation and armorflex tape and wrap the other line Thanks for the info AC_Hacker! I'm going to tackle this project later in the week. My dad is coming over to give me a hand.
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Old 04-11-11, 06:19 PM   #398
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I think the linesets for heating and cooling units should have insulation on both.
If it's just for cooling, I guess the return-hot side (wide tube) could be bare.
That might let it dissipate a little heat before hitting the outdoor heat exchanger..


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Old 04-12-11, 01:15 PM   #399
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AC_Hacker, where do you get the Armorflex tape, the condenser on my already inefficient enough A/C has a 2 foot section of line outdoors that wore away, I think mostly from sun exposure degrading the rubber. I saw the foam wrap around stuff but if this tape is better, I'd prefer that. I figured either that or see if an HVAC tech could come and clean my coils as well as take care of that with an A/C inspection/'tune up'(do they really do anything?).
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Old 04-13-11, 12:44 PM   #400
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MN Renovator,

Is the tape for the UV protection and rubber for insulation? Might need both. I just have the rubber on mine.

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