02-22-16, 01:29 AM | #1851 | ||||
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The Following User Says Thank You to SDMCF For This Useful Post: | AC_Hacker (02-22-16) |
02-22-16, 01:35 AM | #1852 |
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Is that normal in your area? It seems very deep to me. Folks in my area seem to think it is counter-productive to go too deep. I believe the thinking is that the ground temperature lower down won't "recharge" so well during the summer. Around here 1.5 to 2m is common.
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02-22-16, 08:55 PM | #1853 | |
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Additionally, by going to more efficient radiators, which will lower the feed-temperature, the increase in COP is exponential. It is a mild exponential curve, but exponential nonetheless. -AC
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02-23-16, 01:27 AM | #1854 | |
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You may be correct that more modern technology is normal here compared to North America, but if you saw my house you would understand why that idea is comical in my case. I have 2 types of radiators. I have a few radiators something like this: http://thumb9.shutterstock.com/displ...-288271046.jpg My guess is they were old, re-used units when they were installed. Most of the radiators radiators are slightly more modern, something like this: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=...ater01.jpg&f=1 I believe all the radiators were installed in the 1960s. |
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02-23-16, 10:52 AM | #1855 | |
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Very sorry to hear about your ruined coffee by spitting in it. Did you drink it anyway? The top heater can still be found. It was originally meant for steam heat, and as it was designed, steam condensed in it and the radiator gave off considerable heat. Just running hot water through it would yield far less heat. The bottom heater is now being sold in the US as a high-tech premium heat radiator. Not many people have them. There is another radiator that is between the two you showed. These are everywhere here in the US, and many people here don't know of any other kind. These things work well, but they are designed for water temps around 150F to 180F. And yes, if you get enough of them it would be possible to heat a house. But I came across some radiators that are specifically designed for low feed temps. Here is an image: In this case, they have very large fin area, and the small computer type fans gently keep the air moving. This pic is from a product made by Jaga. It that a Finland firm? My point is that yes, if your phase change system is running at 120F it will work and will be cheaper, but if you can use a more efficient radiating system, you can use radiators that give you the heat output you need and use lower temp water, and you will be even better off. -AC
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02-23-16, 06:59 PM | #1856 | |
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02-23-16, 07:03 PM | #1857 | |
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02-23-16, 07:16 PM | #1858 | |
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the local utility company as a load program where they can shut you at high peak loads, in return kw's cost $ .064 instead of $ .105. so I pay $ .064 zip code 50459 For the month of January it cost me $4.95 per day for my heat and hot water (potable). this was not very clear. all that the $4.95 is for my hot water heater(boiler) for the floor and the hot water heater potable (drinking ) no the circulation pump on runs when I need heat, if it ran all the time I think I could set the water temp to about 100 to 120. problem is how to adjust it as temp changes |
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02-23-16, 07:23 PM | #1859 | |
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I did a heat loss calculator online. At a design outdoor temp of -20 and 0. I tried to be conservative with the R-values and it has design loss of 17483 and 13598 it would be nice to know if I'm any where near right |
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02-23-16, 09:29 PM | #1860 |
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I took the kw's I used for Jan, 2400 kw's and converted it to btu's per hr.
2400 * 3412.142 = 8489140.80 / by days / by hours = 11006.91 btu/hr for the month |
The Following User Says Thank You to DonT For This Useful Post: | AC_Hacker (02-25-16) |
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air conditioner, diy, gshp, heat pump, homemade |
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