Gree "Crown" 18kBTU install

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by pelotin

You don't have to be an expert to do hvac flares using this tool, it makes perfect flares every single time just leave the copper pipe 1/8 of an inch above the flaring tool and you will get a perfect 45 degree flare. See the tool below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting . Might consider it if I should have to buy another flare tool .

I saw this on youtube - Migrare FSpin 300 Flaring Spin Set

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc02vPA9uHM

A little more than I would wish to spend , no more often than what I would use it . But probably fine for someone that would use it very frequently .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGgfye5FESE

God bless
Wyr

[Xringer]

Yeah, I made a note of the temperature (77F) when it was 205 PSI..
The last time I did an overnight test (2009?) it dropped a bit,
but came back when the temperature came back up.. Lags a little.
EDIT: It's 10:30AM 9/19/2016, 23 hours later. Outside temperature is now 70F,
and the pressure is about 203 PSI. Still raining around here.

It seems like I might be able to vac it this week at some point.
Got fresh oil in the RobinAir and a new battery in the micron gauge. ready 2 rock!
Put some good AAA cells in the remote and set the clock..
The Gree One Degree Per Click is in the Crown line too!
Next, I'll have to read the user manual some more. Just in case.

I'm betting the pressure and vac is gonna be good, because I just finished wiring!
The text in the install manual is different, so I used the markings on the
terminals of the IDU & ODU.. Large Image warning!

If I have to re-flair, those cables will be in the way.. But, we'll see.
Hoping the lineset is good to go..

[pinballlooking]

Originally Posted by Xringer

Re-inspected the 5/8" factory flare and decided it wasn't worth keeping.
Cut it off and had to work upside-down to make the new flare, without being able to see it!
Had to take some pictures from ground level, to see what it looked like..
It's not great, but it's holding pressure.. Got the pressure test started at 11:30 at 205 PSI.
The gauge manifold is in a plastic bag. Raining off and on today, and all day tomorrow.

Note: The pic is large.

That one looks good. It looks so much better than the one you cut off.

You will like the one degree settings. I am glad they kept that great feature.
My LG unit works very well but it is 2 degree settings makes it harder to get the most comfortable temp.

[Xringer]

Thanks guys! And thanks to pelotin for posting about that Rothenberger flaring tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm wondering just how it grips the tubing.?. I see the 8 little flat plates, but I can't see how they don't dent the copper.?.
On my flair bar, there are little sharp rings inside the clamp,
and I don't like the way the tube can slip down, if the clamping isn't real tight..
It marks up the copper too. Messy looking..

The Rothenberger seems like it would work well in tight locations..

~~~
Pressure is still holding. Just checked again and it's at 204 PSI and 70.4F..
~~~

A while back, I saw a picture of someone running a vacuum pump,
and he had made a short section of 1/4" copper with flare connectors,
to keep things short and more leak-proof on his vacuum task..?. I assume.

This evening, I made a couple of short 1/4" lines with some 'okay' flares.
I wanted to make sure my vac-pump was still working right..
(One line is about 14" and the other about 24").
Connected the meter using the DIY lines right to the vac pump..
The pump is okay and both lines were excellent, taking 50 to 75 seconds,
to get down to 45 microns.. (Moisture in the 24" line, because I washed it. 1st run was a bit slow)

I might use these two copper lines to pull the vacuum on this new Gree..
And eliminate the rubber hose leakage that can cause problems getting down to 200 microns..
It would be great to get down in the 50 micron range!

[WyrTwister]

OK , you have both service valves off ?

So you are vacuuming the lines & the evaporator coil ?

I have read if you expose the refrigeration oil to deep a vacuum , it will cause the oil to start out gassing ?

God bless
Wyr

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister

OK , you have both service valves off ?

So you are vacuuming the lines & the evaporator coil ?

I have read if you expose the refrigeration oil to deep a vacuum , it will cause the oil to start out gassing ?

God bless
Wyr

Yeah, can't have open service valves (The R410A will escape).
There should not be any oil inside the IDU HX.. It's unused.
After the pressure test is over in the morning, I'll remove the gauge manifold, and slowly release the 200 PSI nitrogen.

The next step is to vacuum out the line-set and the IDU HX (heat exchanger).

The service port adapter will be connected to micron gauge and the vacuum pump.
If everything is working right, it should be able to get down under 200 microns easily.
If I can shut-off and cut off the pump, and the pressure holds
for 20 minutes, without going above about 300 microns,
(And that process is repeatable) then the lineset & HX are dry, and ready for the R410A!
By using my lossless copper vacuum lines, the pump might be able get down to a lower pressure..
One way to get all the moisture out of the loop, is to get the a good low pressure, and hold it.
After the pressure gets higher, that means there's moisture that can be pumped out..
So, you repeat the cycle a few times.
At some point, the loop is going to dry out good. It's going to hold at the low pressure... (Hopefully below 100 microns).


The charging process is to run the pump and get the lowest pressure possible,
then slowly crack the high-side valve,(small valve on 1/4" line) bleeding in a little R410A, to the loop.
When the sound of the compressor changes, quickly turn the service port adapter cut-off, and then turn off the pump..(This step prevents any loss of vacuum before or during charging).
Open and close both service valves. Do a bubble-check, re-open both valves, use gloves and quickly remove the service port adapter. Install cover caps on service port and both valves, use Nylog.
Connect the 230Vac, and if there's no smoke, start up the system..

Am I forgetting anything?

[stevehull]

We have all been following this sad story and are now all waiting for the test. You don't need "good luck" as you are doing all correct - and then some!

Great job.


Steve

[pinballlooking]

Originally Posted by Xringer

Yeah, can't have open service valves (The R410A will escape).

The charging process is to run the pump and get the lowest pressure possible,
then slowly crack the high-side valve,(small valve on 1/4" line) bleeding in a little R410A, to the loop.
When the sound of the compressor changes, quickly turn the service port adapter cut-off, and then turn off the pump..(This step prevents any loss of vacuum before or during charging).
Open and close both service valves. Do a bubble-check, re-open both valves, use gloves and quickly remove the service port adapter. Install cover caps on service port and both valves, use Nylog.
Connect the 230Vac, and if there's no smoke, start up the system..

Am I forgetting anything?

I think I have been doing the last part just a tiny bit different. I will put a shutoff valve right at the mini split.
Once I have it vacuumed down I turn that valve off then I release a little Freon. This way very little Freon gets out and it never gets to the vacuum pump and no air gets in. I take that shutoff valve off then bubble check for leaks.
If all good I release Freon and put Nylog on the caps. Then smoke test.

I am no HVAC guy so this might not be the best way. I know both ways will work just wondering if I should be doing it differently?

I cant wait until you fire it up!

[Xringer]

Either way should work fine. I have a small amount of vacuum loss when I operate the valves on any of the three lines on my manifold set..
But the valve on the service port adapter seems to work okay. If it leaks, I'm not able to see it.

The idea of closing the service port adapter valve, 'after' releasing a little R410A into the line going up to the IDU, might be over-kill..
But if done quickly, very little (if any) R410A vapor is going to get to the gauge.
The smallest bit of R410A vapor kills the vacuum and the pump tone changes instantly.
LOL! I'm assuming all pumps sound like my pump!


For those who have not seen it. The chrome thing is the Service port adapter.
It allows the standard 1/4" lines to be used with a mini-split R410A type service port fitting.
This model has a cut-off valve (red handle), which makes things easier..


Got a call from Carolyn at ComfortUp this afternoon, making sure things were okay..
She's going to call again on Wednesday.. Hope to be up and running by then.
rain stopping tonight.. I hope..

[Xringer]

I felt really good after PT class today, and the weather was okay!
Pressure was still at 205 PSI.. So, Back To Work!
The DIY vacuum lines worked fine. The pump pulled both lines and the guage right down to 50 microns pretty quick..
The system would go stable around 100, so I would shut the cut-off and bring the DIY lines down to 50, and it would pull the lineset a little lower, when I reopened the cut-off..
When it started hitting 90 microns every time, I decided 90 was good..
Operating the cut-off showed no leakage at all. That caused me to hit the cut-off
right at 90, stop the pump and then open the valves.. No leaks detected..

If your hoses are leaky, (like mine) try using some DIY copper vac lines!

Glad that I had some good gloves on when removing the service port adapter.
There was a 1.5 second shot of R410A when removing the adapter..
My fingers would have been frostbitten! That stuff gets super cold!

Plugged in the buss-bar and got the system up without too much fuss. Still learning the remote.
I can set the fan speed, but can't direct the louvers to the setting I want..
I plan on testing the heat in the morning.. The chilly weather is coming this weekend..
Intellicast - Woburn Hourly Forecast in Massachusetts (01801)


The ODU fan noise is at a lower frequency than the Sanyo unit, so it seems
louder to me. (My hearing is better at low freqs). The indoor unit is very quiet.
Similar to the Sanyo IDU when they were new and the fan motors weren't squealing..

The dehumidifier mode works great. Nice flow of water within 20 minutes.
It's been overcast much of the day and it's 75F outside now..
So, I'm using the new Gree to cool the whole house.. (Den Sanyo is off).