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Old 09-27-14, 06:40 PM   #21
oil pan 4
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Originally Posted by Mikesolar View Post
Simple, idiot installers never want to get a call back when the equipment cannot meet the heat/cooling load. Out utility is famous for doing this. Pisses me off to no end...
I like to come home, in the afternoon and have the house about 95'f and be able to turn on the A/C after its been off all day and most of the night and cool the place down with in a reasonable amount of time.

I have had an A/C that was just barely big enough, on hot days it would run, and run and run some more.

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Old 09-27-14, 07:17 PM   #22
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You can hit 15 SEER with a TXV and larger coils. May not even need an ECM to hit 15.
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Old 09-28-14, 08:43 AM   #23
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With Ruud I can get 16 seer with a 14.5 seer outdoor and x-13 indoor blower, and a giant evaporator coil at a very reasonable price point.
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Old 09-28-14, 08:57 AM   #24
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With Ruud I can get 16 seer with a 14.5 seer outdoor and x-13 indoor blower, and a giant evaporator coil at a very reasonable price point.
I have the 2 ton 14.5SEER condenser set up with matching 2 ton coil. Blower motor isn't an X-13, but a 825RPM single speed instead of the 1075 OEM. Blower wattage 150W vs 350W on low speed with the old motor. I doubt an X-13 is going to deliver 800CFM much cheaper than 150W. Haven't had an electric bill over 1,000KWH since I installed the system in 2012. Since it's a DIY combo, no AHRI rating can be applied.
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Old 09-28-14, 10:42 AM   #25
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825 blower motor? Is that a 230v condenser fan motor I see? So you added 230v to your blower?
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Old 09-28-14, 10:59 AM   #26
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825 blower motor? Is that a 230v condenser fan motor I see? So you added 230v to your blower?
Couldn't find a 825RPM 120v motor anywhere, had to get a 230v. I thought I'd try @ 120v before running 240v to the furnace. The 230v motor runs fine on 120v, needed a 10uf cap to get proper power factor/phase balance. 1.2A draw, rated at 1.8A, didn't see a need to run 240v. It has been running like that all summer, motor stays nice and cool.

Note that the new motor and old motor are both 1/3HP. At 825RPM there is a MUCH lower HP requirement, therefore the motor doesn't over amp. 230v motors will run on 120v, you just have to cut the HP rating in 1/2 and adjust the cap size to ensure the phases stay balanced. Watch amp draw and be sure it doesn't exceed nameplate rating.

You must DOUBLE the cap when you cut the voltage and load in 1/2. Motor amps will stay the same. Motor is rated for a 7.5uf cap @ 1.8A. Should use a 15UF? No, because the actual load is closer to 1/9HP than 1/6HP. I'm at 1.2A instead of 1.8A, so I'm using a 10uf instead of a 15uf cap. I experimented with 7.5/10/12.5 and found 10 to give the best results. Keep in mind that the the motors rated cap is only correct at the motors rated voltage/amps/load. As voltage and load varies so does the "ideal cap".

At the end of the day a motor is just iron and copper. Copper doesn't care about volts, only amps. Don't overamp the copper and you have a happy motor. In order to get the RATED HP out of the motor, you must supply it with the rated voltage. Otherwise you will overamp the copper.


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