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Old 01-28-11, 08:45 AM   #21
hamsterpower
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I have CFLs in my motion controlled flood light out back. I never even thought about it but it seems to work fine.
For a cheap source of cellulose insulation watch the home improvement store for open bags. When I asked about the open bags last fall the manager sold me three full but opened bags (usually $10 each) for $6 total.

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Old 01-30-11, 09:04 PM   #22
Clev
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Just finished almost four days of measurement on the chest freezer. It consumed 2.1Kwh in 90:40 according to the Kill-a-Watt. This was half-empty and with the inside temperature measured at -2F. It's in an unheated laundry room that sits at around 40-50 degrees.

Average consumption is 23.2 watts, monthly consumption 16.7kWh, or roughly $4.18/month.

I've turned the temperature dial from 4 (average) to 3.5. I'll give it a day to stabilize at the new temperature and then start measuring again.
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Old 02-04-11, 01:43 PM   #23
Clev
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Chest freezer consumed 1.36kWh in 70:52. Inside temperature is 0F, so perhaps I caught the first measurement right after it shut off and this measurement right before it clicked on.

Average consumption is 19.2 watts, monthly consumption 13.8kWh, or roughly $3.45/month.

Before I mess with the dial further, I'm going to check the temperature a couple of times an hour tomorrow to make sure that it's not peaking too high.
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Old 02-04-11, 10:20 PM   #24
morphector
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The best thing to reduce power consumption of your chest freezer is to fill any unused space with water jug. Water doesn't move and doesn't escape when you open the lid (which is surely not 100% airtight).

Another benefit is if there's a power outage your freezer will stay cold a lot longer.

It would also be interesting to see the savings based on 1 year, but if you're gonna do some tests be sure to give your water jugs time to freeze completely
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Old 02-04-11, 10:22 PM   #25
Clev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morphector View Post
The best thing to reduce power consumption of your chest freezer is to fill any unused space with water jug. Water doesn't move and doesn't escape when you open the lid (which is surely not 100% airtight).

Another benefit is if there's a power outage your freezer will stay cold a lot longer.

It would also be interesting to see the savings based on 1 year, but if you're gonna do some tests be sure to give your water jugs time to freeze completely
I actually have a few 2 liter soda bottles filled with water in there, but probably could stand to add a few more. Another nice side effect is that I have emergency drinking water in case I need it.
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Old 03-22-11, 02:02 PM   #26
Quest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
Motion detectors don't work with CFLs? I've never tried, because the short on-off-on-off cycling isn't compatible with CFLs (or at least I think).
...

There are indeed certain types/brands of motion sensor lighting device that may not properly support CFLs, due to the fact that they run on Triacs.

1/2 of those Heath-Zenith ones are indeed on Triacs (esp. those fancy, 240 to 270 degree with bottom sensor ones) and the rest are on traditional relay type (don't recall the H-Z version that is in relay, but believe it to be the 180degree one, which I have 1 installed already).

The traditional relay type can and will support CFL floodlights.

Q.
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Old 03-28-11, 11:49 PM   #27
ThomSjay
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I have found that CFLs like to be on and remain on....cycling shortens the life to that of an incandescent.

About the windows, if you get a roll of closed-cell filler to fill in the gap to keep from rattling, and then apply shrink-film on the window, you will reduce the drafts and increase the comfort level.

+1 to what Robert Smalls posted.

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