#2 Sanyo 24KHS72 AC/HP Install Project (Oct 2011) - Page 7

Xringer · 03-22-13, 05:04 PM

When it gets sunny in the afternoon, this remote is solar heated via this west side window.
It's set for 21C, but the sun warms the remote up to around 24C and higher.
That puts the Den Sanyo in standby, and allows the sun to take over heating the den.
After awhile, those two 48x48 windows allow the Den to warm right up to the low 20 to mid 20s C.
Even on a mostly cloudy day like this one. http://maps.wunderground.com/data/64...ne_vi_anim.gif
As the sun sets in the west, the remote slowly starts to chill again.. And it's back to work for Mr. Sanyo..

~~~ Summer mode:

Placing the remote in a sunny spot might also be useful for off-grid folks,
who don't want their 9,000 BTUh Sanyo to kill their battery bank, when the clouds roll in.

By allowing the sun to over-heat the remote, to around 80F..
Then adjusting the set-point to 78F, will keep the Sanyo cooling.

But, when the sun disappears, the remote will cool off.. (if not left on a hot surface).
Once it cools off (below 78F), it will throttle the Sanyo back to idle.

Xringer · 04-22-13, 04:39 PM

1 year, 6 months later.. The repaired outdoor unit is still working okay.. (knock wood).
http://ecorenovator.org/forum/geothe...r-project.html
We don't see any change in performance. No hardware has been changed, expect for the power limiting hack.
We are looking forward to another cool summer in the den!

We plan to put a better snow shelter over the outdoor unit this summer..
(Forgot to do it last summer)..

Mikesolar · 04-26-13, 08:20 AM

Did you ever figure out how to run the HP without the handshake from the indoor unit? I would like to see if one of the indoor units can be exchanged for a BPHX and a tank.

Xringer · 04-26-13, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikesolar

Did you ever figure out how to run the HP without the handshake from the indoor unit? I would like to see if one of the indoor units can be exchanged for a BPHX and a tank.

These model Sanyos have a pair of pins on the main board called 'T-Run'.
I've posted about them before somewhere.

By connecting a switch between the T-Run pins, I can cause a 24HS72 OD unit to run it's fan and compressor.

To control the mode (cool or heat), I just un-plugged (the control line) the 4-way valve, if it was in an undesired mode.

One problem was the watts really shot up with I used T-Run in heating mode.
It used normal power in cooling mode. That may have been due
to the small HX loop I was using, low R410A, or a firmware problem.

Sanyo Chill Mode Test Video by Xringer | Photobucket

R410A Cleaning Loop Video by Xringer | Photobucket

Mikesolar · 04-26-13, 04:59 PM

Looks like I will be a selling Panasanyo HPs and i would like to get rid of the indoor unit and replace it with the XH/tank

AC_Hacker · 04-27-13, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikesolar

Looks like I will be a selling Panasanyo HPs and i would like to get rid of the indoor unit and replace it with the XH/tank

Are you gonna go with a ASHP going into a BPHX to heat a water loop?

If that's the case, what are you going to use for the ASHP?

-AC

Mikesolar · 04-27-13, 06:44 PM

I think I said it wrong. I want to only buy the outdoor unit and find a way to make it communicate with a control that measures the temps on the tank and HX.

AC_Hacker · 04-27-13, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikesolar

I think I said it wrong. I want to only buy the outdoor unit and find a way to make it communicate with a control that measures the temps on the tank and HX.

I want to know all about that one. Right now I have a 1-Ton outdoor unit (one speed compressor), with no indoor unit, and I have a suitably large BPHX and an appropriately sized TXV.

I'm stuck on the communication part... so I'm thinking of rolling my own.

There have been more than a few technically inclined folks on EcoRenovator who have tried to crack the mini-split code, but I have seen nothing to indicate if they had any operational success.

I have have a schematic of the HP, and have looked at the controller board and I can see the interface chips that send power to the compressor, and to the crankcase heater, and to the reversing valve.

I'm trying to keep it as simple as I can, and the functions I think are important are:

Compressor start & stop (inside thermostat will send signal).
Turn on crankcase heater in cold weather.
Defrost by reversing refrigerant flow.

I'm thinking of using an Arduino to control the output chips, and bypassing the original processor, all together.

-AC

WyrTwister · 07-10-13, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer

These model Sanyos have a pair of pins on the main board called 'T-Run'.
I've posted about them before somewhere.

By connecting a switch between the T-Run pins, I can cause a 24HS72 OD unit to run it's fan and compressor.

To control the mode (cool or heat), I just un-plugged (the control line) the 4-way valve, if it was in an undesired mode.

One problem was the watts really shot up with I used T-Run in heating mode.
It used normal power in cooling mode. That may have been due
to the small HX loop I was using, low R410A, or a firmware problem.

Sanyo Chill Mode Test Video by Xringer | Photobucket

R410A Cleaning Loop Video by Xringer | Photobucket

Could you pleas PM or Email me ? I have a mini split question & I have not been on this forum long enough to contact you directly .

Thank you , :-)
Wyr
God bless

Mikesolar · 07-10-13, 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AC_Hacker

I want to know all about that one. Right now I have a 1-Ton outdoor unit (one speed compressor), with no indoor unit, and I have a suitably large BPHX and an appropriately sized TXV.

I'm stuck on the communication part... so I'm thinking of rolling my own.

There have been more than a few technically inclined folks on EcoRenovator who have tried to crack the mini-split code, but I have seen nothing to indicate if they had any operational success.

I have have a schematic of the HP, and have looked at the controller board and I can see the interface chips that send power to the compressor, and to the crankcase heater, and to the reversing valve.

I'm trying to keep it as simple as I can, and the functions I think are important are:

Compressor start & stop (inside thermostat will send signal).
Turn on crankcase heater in cold weather.
Defrost by reversing refrigerant flow.

I'm thinking of using an Arduino to control the output chips, and bypassing the original processor, all together.

-AC

I must have missed this post somehow. AC, my thoughts are that the refrigerant volume of the BPHX needs to be similar to that of the the indoor coil unless there is an accumulator which isn't that likely on your unit.

On the control side, I have seen that there are PWM signals with a start and end pulse that communicate a remote control with the outdoor unit on the inverter models. Yours is probably a lot simpler but finding out what the thermister values on the inside unit are would be a start. Have you got those handy?

03-22-13, 05:04 PM	#61
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Automatic Solar heat switch-over When it gets sunny in the afternoon, this remote is solar heated via this west side window. It's set for 21C, but the sun warms the remote up to around 24C and higher. That puts the Den Sanyo in standby, and allows the sun to take over heating the den. After awhile, those two 48x48 windows allow the Den to warm right up to the low 20 to mid 20s C. Even on a mostly cloudy day like this one. http://maps.wunderground.com/data/64...ne_vi_anim.gif As the sun sets in the west, the remote slowly starts to chill again.. And it's back to work for Mr. Sanyo.. ~~~ Summer mode: Placing the remote in a sunny spot might also be useful for off-grid folks, who don't want their 9,000 BTUh Sanyo to kill their battery bank, when the clouds roll in. By allowing the sun to over-heat the remote, to around 80F.. Then adjusting the set-point to 78F, will keep the Sanyo cooling. But, when the sun disappears, the remote will cool off.. (if not left on a hot surface). Once it cools off (below 78F), it will throttle the Sanyo back to idle. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

04-22-13, 04:39 PM	#62
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	18 month report is boring.. 1 year, 6 months later.. The repaired outdoor unit is still working okay.. (knock wood). http://ecorenovator.org/forum/geothe...r-project.html We don't see any change in performance. No hardware has been changed, expect for the power limiting hack. We are looking forward to another cool summer in the den! We plan to put a better snow shelter over the outdoor unit this summer.. (Forgot to do it last summer).. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

04-26-13, 08:20 AM	#63
Mikesolar Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Toronto Posts: 958 Thanks: 40 Thanked 158 Times in 150 Posts	Did you ever figure out how to run the HP without the handshake from the indoor unit? I would like to see if one of the indoor units can be exchanged for a BPHX and a tank.

04-26-13, 04:59 PM	#65
Mikesolar Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Toronto Posts: 958 Thanks: 40 Thanked 158 Times in 150 Posts	Looks like I will be a selling Panasanyo HPs and i would like to get rid of the indoor unit and replace it with the XH/tank

04-27-13, 06:44 PM	#67
Mikesolar Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Toronto Posts: 958 Thanks: 40 Thanked 158 Times in 150 Posts	I think I said it wrong. I want to only buy the outdoor unit and find a way to make it communicate with a control that measures the temps on the tank and HX.